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407 replies

Lyricist II
January 27, 2021

Hi Im not tech enough to open and start fixing mine.

Could there be anyone that could fix mine?

Ive talked to Sonos, but no help there. It online and apparently “working” but no sound.

Cables and speakers working fine.

Prominent Collaborator I
February 26, 2021

Hi Im not tech enough to open and start fixing mine.

Could there be anyone that could fix mine?

Ive talked to Sonos, but no help there. It online and apparently “working” but no sound.

Cables and speakers working fine.

PM me - maybe I can help.

Lyricist II
February 27, 2021

Hi Im not tech enough to open and start fixing mine.

Could there be anyone that could fix mine?

Ive talked to Sonos, but no help there. It online and apparently “working” but no sound.

Cables and speakers working fine.

PM me - maybe I can help.

 

Lyricist II
February 27, 2021

Hi Im not tech enough to open and start fixing mine.

Could there be anyone that could fix mine?

Ive talked to Sonos, but no help there. It online and apparently “working” but no sound.

Cables and speakers working fine.

PM me - maybe I can help.

 

Looks like a lightning has toasted something?

Prominent Collaborator I
February 27, 2021

That is likely not beyond repair!

It’s hard to tell from the picture, but there are 6 components under that area and likely at least one of them is bad.

There are four large flat diodes.  These can be tested with a multimeter to see what the forward voltage drop is across each.  They should conduct power in one direction only.

The other two components are on the other side of the board.  They have 3 legs each, and are power mosfets.  (like this: http://www.datasheetcafe.com/k3797-datasheet-mosfet/).  You can test like a diode between each pair of legs.  You should not see any short circuits.

The mosfets are part of the circuit that provides 36V to the amplifier.  That 36V is not actually required for the device to power up properly.  The fact that you don’t have power means that there is another problem.  It could be as simple as the fuse being blown. That is on the other side of the circuit board, and is a small short cylinder about 1cm tall  (usually brown).

Do you have a multimeter to test, and have you ever done electronic soldering before?

Contributor I
May 31, 2021

I’m in the same boat as most of you (though I haven’t opened up my unit to see what’s going on - I wouldn’t know how to fix it anyway).  My unit refuses to power on, and it happened I’m sure “coincidentally” right after I updated my app.  

Here’s what it looks like to me:  Sonos may have done away with their “recycle” program, but now they’re using “forced obsolescence”, and shutting down older units to force people into upgrading. 

My unit - a ZP120 - had been used so infrequently that it should have lasted 40 years.  And now, all of the sudden, and right as I updated my app, it goes bad for no reason?   And Sonos is telling me that I can’t get another ZP-120 and I have to get one of the newer models.  

That’s some sketchy business practices right there.  

jgatie
May 31, 2021

That's some sketchy paranoia right there.

Prominent Collaborator I
June 9, 2021

Here’s what it looks like to me:  Sonos may have done away with their “recycle” program, but now they’re using “forced obsolescence”, and shutting down older units to force people into upgrading. 

 

Upgrade to what? The Amp isn’t available to ship until at least Sept. 3. My ZP-120 continues to work fine. 

Contributor I
August 10, 2021

Hi, can anybody tell me the vale of resistor R15550, located under the WiFi module on the ZP120?

This component is missing on my board ( knocked off and lost by previous “repairer”). Oddly, the player still works, but I would like to replace it.

 

Prominent Collaborator I
August 10, 2021

Hi, can anybody tell me the vale of resistor R15550, located under the WiFi module on the ZP120?

This component is missing on my board ( knocked off and lost by previous “repairer”). Oddly, the player still works, but I would like to replace it.

 

You’re in luck!  That’s a 0 ohm jumper, so no parts search required...