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407 replies

Lyricist III
November 18, 2018
gruv2ths,

you wrote about a bad driver ic on the logic board, you succesfully have replaced.
just to be sure, witch card is the logic board. the one with ethernet or the one rising from the powerboard.

i have read this thread several times to figure out voltages and troubleshooting, and i think i got all the voltages right.
it sounds like i have the same problem you descibes.
it has been very interesting reading.
just need to get over the final bumb. i have to say i am noob at electronics. i am a electrician, so i hope i have a little understanding.
Trending Lyricist I
December 10, 2018
Hey Toden,
You probably have this fixed already, but if not the 74VLC06AD on mine was bad. You can download the datasheet and buy them from the link below. From the datasheet look at the pinouts and measure the outputs to ground and see if any are low resistance like 100 ohms or so. One of mine was, and that fixed my problem.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nexperia/74LVC06AD118?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kDE4J8KCiPsFeMuB44hEVa8%3d

To anybody else, I have a repaired power board for sale on ebay. Let me know if you have trouble finding it.
Lyricist III
December 10, 2018
@gruv2ths Ahhh you finally fixed that! How did you determine that IC was bad? Thats a tough nut to find is bad!
Trending Lyricist I
December 10, 2018
Hey old friend!
It was one Hail Mary after another.
I noticed that when it was failing the preamp chip was never being un-muted. I followed the mute line from the pre-amp chip up through the riser card to that driver chip on the logic card. I pulled the datasheet and found that that pin was an output and its output was stuck at 100 ohms or something like that. The other outputs on that chip were fairly high resistance. Learned a lot, many months of four letter words though. Lol
Lyricist III
December 15, 2018
Hi guys,
Im in need of help with my zp120 ive been following this forum, built a dim bulb tester, found a short replaced the bridge rectifier and fuse, also found a small burn mark under the tranformer one of the copper wires came off so soldered it back into place, still no power, im getting no voltage on the secondary side.
Trending Lyricist I
December 15, 2018
Sounds like you have a open winding. Take off the transformer, you will probably see a burn mark where it came open.
Trending Lyricist I
December 15, 2018
Also do you see 300ish volts on one pin of the transformer and neutral on another, both on the primary side?
There is also a 100 or 10 ohm 2W-ish axel leaded resistor in series with the primary, make sure that is not open.
Lyricist III
December 15, 2018
Hi,
Ive removed the tranformer with great difficulty one of the copper pads lifted but should be ok, I also changed the resistor aswell, the only thing im uncertain of where it is burnt I cant find the trace for where that pin connects to on the board(directly above D16016) I cant see any trace or cant find hear any beep to which component its in series with.
Trending Lyricist I
December 16, 2018
D16016 Cathode connects on a inner layer to the junction between C16034 and D16015. Just ohm it out, its prob fine.
That is the primary side snubber. I would also check to make sure all 3 of the diodes in that area are all ok. I have had shorts there.
Did you find something blown open on the transformer? That mark on the top side suggests an open where the pin meets the magnetic wire.
Lyricist III
December 16, 2018
Hi,
Ive checked the transformer seems ok no open windings, is there any other checks i can do on tranformer before putting it back, also a diode d16010 reads open but when removed its ok i removed the resistor next to it and it no longer shows open, the resistance value shows fine on the DM it does show completely open in diode open is that correct.