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benbendog
Trending Lyricist I
May 22, 2018
Hi gruv2ths,

With the help of your pictures, I think this time I did an OK job recovering the transformer:



All windings now have expected connectivity and resistance. My plan is to flip the transformer (pins sticking up), glue it on the PCB, and use coated wires to connect it back to PCB. That way I can easy fix it in case something happened during the soldering process. I will keep decent gap between wires.

I will keep you updated.

Thanks again for the help,

-Tao
m0untainman
Lyricist III
May 23, 2018
Nice... so it was the pins :-)

I am very very hopeful this is gonna work for you... can't wait to hear!
benbendog
Trending Lyricist I
May 24, 2018
Hi Guys,

I managed to install the fixed transformer back to the power supply board:



I double checked all the connections then powered on. I was using RTN1 (pin1) as GND and I did get 3.3V output which means the primary is working now. On the other hand, if I use the same RTN1 or the CPU_GND, I got nothing from either the 8.4V or the 15.4V. I then switched the GND to RTN2 (pin3 of the secondary) and I was getting ~7.8V and 14.8V from both outputs. I was really happen to see that. It seems that the 3.3V and 5V/14V don't share the same GND. I remembered someone suggested to short them together but I was not sure if I should do that if by design they are separated.

I was very excited to put everything together and powered on. The good news is nothing blow-up but the bad news is the LED didn't turn on. I will have to debug it later. I am not sure if it is related to the GND connection.

Thanks again for all the help so far.
m0untainman
Lyricist III
May 24, 2018
That's great news. Now IIWY, I would be sure those leads are coated. Get some liquid eletric tape and slather them. The reason is the electronics on that board are really not friendly to shorts. That PWM blows by just looking at it and its a tough part to get. Both gruv2ths and I have blown those multiple times.

I believe it was gruv2ths who said you could short the two RTNs and all should be good.

Let us know if its all working... its great to hear when we get one up and running. 🙂
benbendog
Trending Lyricist I
May 24, 2018
Hi gruv2ths,
Can you confirm if I should short the two RTN points?

Thanks,
benbendog
Trending Lyricist I
May 24, 2018
NVM, after putting everything together, now i can see the two RTN points are shorted probably by the main board. I will do more detail measurements tonight.
aymanme
Lyricist III
May 25, 2018
Wow, that was a long but interesting read. I have a ZP120 with the "stuck on white LED", no ethernet traffic. It looked inside and nothing obviously damaged. I rung out the front panel board and everything looks OK there. Should I start another thread? Any ideas what the white LED means? It comes on within a second of plugging and just sits there.
Airgetlam
Airgetlam
May 25, 2018
LED States FAQ
Bruce
aymanme
Lyricist III
May 25, 2018
LED States FAQ

Thanks, I have done all that though (factory reset, hold power + v+), etc … and the light just stays solid white. And none of the ethernet lights on the back are blinking.
benbendog
Trending Lyricist I
May 25, 2018
Hi guys,
I have a great news to report, I found I was shorting the transformer contact after I installed the mainboard, I was really lucky nothing damaged. I isolated the contacts and guess what, the white LED turned on right after power on! It took me no time to add the zp120 to my Sonos setup and it is driving my KEF speaker replacing the Arcam:



The white box under the table is the zp120, the one one the small table is the zp90.

My next steps are to put everything together and fix the wifi antenna.

Thanks again for the help. I like this forum, I hope with my little experiences, I can help someone in the the future.
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