Advanced setups

Since the sonos system is always plugged in and switched on, I'd like to use it as anti-burgler tool. I'd like my sonos system makes noise and plays tv-like-sounds and fake conversations, as someone is in my home. A function that can be activated when I'm not at home. Or at least a way to program radio playing at some hours in the day.

Where can I find info on the original spec of the initial ZP100's . Output , channel etc..

Hi Everyone, New to the forum, but not to Sonos. As a Dealer, I'm just beating the bushes to be able to control the Sonos equip. with High end Automation gear like Vantage Controls makes. Anyone written or seen this available? Thanks in advance for the help!! Aster

How can I wirelessly connect the new Sonos One with my Bang and Olufsen Beovision 11 Television.

Background: My Sonos network consists of of 6 rooms and 13 players. My Playbar is connected to my home wired network with an Ethernet cable. The remaining players are all connected via the Sonos mesh network. All 13 players are on network 192.168.128.0. My Sonos system works great. My computers are also on the 192.168.128.0 network and the conputer-based Sonos controller finds my Sonos network without issue. Recently I set up a new Lynksys Velop wireless mesh network. The Velop primary node is also connected to the 192.168.128.0 network with an Ethernet cable. The Velop wireless network is network 192.168.1.0. My portable devices all connect to the new Velop wireless network also without issue. The problem is that when I try to run the Sonos controller from my Android phone, it does not find my Sonos network. Well I'm pretty sure it's because the Sonos network is on 192.168.128.0 and my Android controller is on 192.168.1.0 and I understand that the Controller must be on

I recently got a new TV and have a Sonos PlayBar. I'm not able to control the TV volume with either the TV remote or the cable box remote. The only way that I can change the volume when watching TV, is through the Sonos app. Any ideas on how I would be able to get the volume connected back into the TV remotes?

Hi, I have a pretty complex setup where 7 SONOS connect are driving 7 identical analog Power Amp and 1 SONOS connect driving a Yamaha RX-A3060 (AV receiver). The issue is the following: When in party mode (all zones playing same source), the sound delay is perfectly balanced for my 7 analog amps but since the RX-A3060 is processing the sound, it also delays it by a fair amount, invalidating the sefulness of it. Questions: 1- Is there a way to program an audio delay value in all my SONOS connect (but the one driving the Yamaha RX-A3060) in order to get a near perfect sync? 2- (For Yamaha gurus) Is there a way to avoid all processing in the Yamaha in order to get a cut-through sound that is not delayed. Thanks, Steph.

I admit, i am addicted and have about 20 units of SONOS. But, my network router cannot work upstairs with 100%. So, is it possible to use one speaker as mesh-network to extend the wifi signal? What i mean, instead of connecting with RJ45 to play - use the RJ45 to extract wifi? If not, what a great feature to provide SONOS users!!!

Suggested software/application enhancement when initially setting up the Sonos system, I think it would be helpful if there were options to "name" the rooms individuals have speakers. For example, I have surround sound set up in our family room, one five speaker in the basement and another five speaker in the loft upstairs, however when I set up those speakers my options were very limited on the "names" of those rooms... I chose the "garage" for the basement and the "lounge" for the loft and "den" for the family room... We often get comfy as to whether the family room is the "den" or the "lounge". Is anyone else having this issue?

My basic question is, can I plug a powered stereo receiver INTO a Sonos Connect, or will the powered signal potentially cause problems or even fry the Connect? Right now I have a turntable running into a preamp then into my Connect. Then I've got a pair of powered speakers plugged into the Connect's output. The result is that I can play records through my Sonos system and/or through the powered speakers. This works fine but I'm considering upping my game and adding an actual stereo receiver and a pair of passive speakers to replace the powered speakers. The potential problem I see is that I'm moving the power source from the output side of the Connect to the input side of the Connect. Instead of turntable-> preamp-> Connect -> powered speakers / Sonos speakers It would be turntable-> preamp-> Powered receiver-> Connect-> Sonos speakers (the new passive speakers running directly off the new receiver) I'm concerned that running a powered signal into the Connect then out to

Here is what I'd like to do: Have TV sound play in the kitchen as well as on our existing non-sonos TV soundbar. Would it work to get a Play 5, connect line-in from the TV, have it NOT actually play the TV on the play 5, but select it to play to the Play 1 in the kitchen instead (while having TV play sound on the old sound bar, too)? I don't particularly want to buy the TV soundbar since we already have one. We have a Samsung smart TV. Does anybody know if this is possible?

I am trying to operate my Sonos system in Standard wireless mode because I have a strong mesh WiFi network. I have noticed however that sometimes speakers do not connect to the nearest access point - resulting in sub-optimal operation. In one case for example I have a pair of Play:1 speakers in a room adjacent to an access point but one of the speakers is connecting to an access point much further away. I realise I could switch back to Boost mode but for various reasons I would prefer not to. Any thoughts as to why this might be or how I might correct it?

This isn't an advanced setup as such but felt it fitted best here. I have a Play:1 setup in my living room which will become a Playbar + Play:1 setup once my movers ship my stuff. I also have a Play:5 coming. I'm committed to the Sonos system! I've just setup a new office and was originally thinking of putting the Play:5 in here. However, after setting up a Henge Dock for my MacBook Pro I realised I would need a speaker for it, but that the Play:5 is too big to place anywhere on the desk. A Play:3 would fit perfectly, but has no Line-In. I tried AirSonos as a hack and whilst it works in test, the lag makes it unrealistic for everyday use. I'm tempted to go with an Airport Express + Connect:Amp as in the future I would like to introduce a record player too, but I don't want to go down this path and then find that I have the same lagging issue. Is Airplay a viable option for pushing all MacBook sound?

Not a super "advanced" scenario, but... My mom has a largish property with a multi-room Sonos setup inside the main house, using her existing WiFi (Apple). Works fine. But she has a veranda area where people cook&dine. Bought a Play:3 for this area that she can bust out whenever she uses the space. But the existing WiFi doesn't reliably make it that far (approx 20-25 meters). Considering segregating her house Sonos network onto a Boost (get it off the Apple), and placing another Boost out with the Play:3. Will the 2nd Boost help bridge the gap using mesh overlap between the Boosts? Or will the Boost and the Play:3 already be attempting the same thing the same way. Essentially wondering if the Boost units have more oomph in the mesh than the other Sonos units do. Thanks in advance!

Hi gang. I'm trying to set up an outdoor movie for my kids and run sound out of my outdoor speakers that are connected to my Sonos Connect Amp. I am able to route sound from my laptop to the speakers by connecting an RCA cable in the headphone jack to the Connect Amp, but obviously that bypasses the projector. When I connect the HDMI cable from my laptop to the projector...no sound comes out of the outdoor speakers. I tried disconnecting sound from my laptop and then routing a standard set of RCA cables from the projector to the Connect Amp, but no sound out of the speakers there either. A couple points of clarification, I am using a PC laptop, and I have Line In Component selected and playing in the Sonos controller on the laptop. Any help here would be appreciated.

I saw this video that explained to me the Spanning Tree Protocol and Broadcast Storms: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAIsFX1XPHo Since I have multiple Sonos speakers connected with wire and some are wireless, and by connecting at least one speaker with wire will make that speaker the hub of the SonosNet, as I understand it. So my setup might be applicable to the "Broadcast Storm" problem. From what I understand, this can be prevented by two ways: - Sonos has their own STP solution, so even if you mix wired and wireless speakers, "it should work", correct? - You start using switches that supports STP (or one of the other variants RSTP/MSTP), which will notice duplicated packets and remove them, correct? I have a router and from that I branch out to Netgear GS105 switches (which then might connect to other GS105 switches - I have know idea if they have STP support or not). But my question is... - How would I even know if I got "Broadcast Storm" problem in my home n

By now we are probably all familiar with the fact that some external receivers impart a noticeable delay in their audio processing, which means your sound from from your CONNECT+amplifier might be 5 to 20ms behind the rest of your Sonos system. The typical solution for this is to put your amplifier/receiver in a "no-processing" mode ("Straight", "Pure Direct", or the myriad of other names that manufacturers choose for these). As the owner of an older Yamaha sound bar that has no such option--even the analog ins incur some delay--I figured I'd just have to live with this until Sonos could be convinced to put an audio delay setting in their CONNECT, but I am pretty sure that will happen "never". Sonos wants to sell you PLAY speakers, not CONNECTs. And then I tried a stupid idea that works. Warning: this is really stupid. I took the outputs of my CONNECT, and connected them to both to my external speakers (via digital audio) and a SONOS PLAY:5 via the analog line in. Then I have

I love my Sonos PLAY:3 players! I have Google Fiber and noticed my iPhone controller randomly connected and disconnected to Sonos throughout a day. All the while, my MacBook Pro had no trouble connecting to the system. After trying a number of things such as setting the channels, I decided to try setting up my Google Router to have a separate SSID for 2.4GHz and 5.0GHz. I renamed the main SSID to denote "slow" and then named the 5.0GHz after my original SSID. I restarted my router just to be safe. After separating the two bandwidths, I connected one of my speakers to the router and used the MacBook controller to assign the speakers to the 2.4Ghz SSID. My iPhone and MacBook connected right to the 5.0GHz SSID without a change. My Apple and Sonos family are now speaking together. In fact, they are making sweet music together! Peace and Music On!

We have purchased a Play 1 for a home owner who wanted wireless audio in the bathroom. Our issues though are: 1) he refuses to use the Sonos app and 2) it turns out he mostly uses the YouTube app on an iPhone as a music source. After researching the forums thoroughly, I have come to understand that we could buy a Play 5 for him along with a Bluetooth receiver, put it in another room, and the audio could be sent to both the Play 5 and the Play 1 that way. What I need to understand before investing in another Sonos is speaker is whether (after the initial setup) the audio could be sent from the iPhone via Bluetooth without using the Sonos app at all: just turn on bluetooth, connect to the receiver and play audio from the phone. If that's the case, during the initial setup in the Sonos app I could select whether the audio is sent automatically to the Play 1, the Play 5 or both, right? And if I manage to convince him to learn how to use the app, he could use it to select which of the spe

I have 7 sonos clients in our house with an Eero WiFi system. I have good WiFi coverage everywhere. 5 of the clients are hard-wired via Ethernet, with 2 remaining ones needing to connect wirelessly. My understanding is that because I have at least one sonos client plugged into Ethernet, I have a BOOST setup, with the hardwired clients created a SonosNET network in parallel to my existing main WiFi network. I feel like SonosNet is unnecessary and to just eliminate wireless interference, I’m thinking of disabling it. However, I have some questions. If I switch my setup to regular WiFi instead of SonosNet, will my existing 5 hardwired clients still use the hard wire, and only the 2 remaining units connecting to WiFi? Anything I’m missing?

Hi, I have been working on a simplified UPnP library which is aimed at Sonos that I want to make available to others. You can find the source-code here: https://github.com/jishi/Jishi.Intel.SonosUPnP This is based upon Intels UPnP framework, which is opposed to the COM object that other attempts that I have found, based completely on managed code (no unmanaged code). This makes a huge difference if you are building anything multithreaded (WinForms, WPF etc). I will try to put up some example code for people to look at. Right now some of the features are pretty hacky since I'm still learning best practices, but hopefully it simplifies it a bit for someone. This is built for .NET 4 Client Profile. The requirements is only .NET 4, previous versions doesn't need to exist. Basic usage is this: code:// Create the main objectvar discovery = new SonosDiscovery();// Attach an event handler for topologychanged, this will be triggered as soon as it has found players (and w

If you have an Amazon Echo you can now control your Sonos device. Download the Yonomi app, connect to Sonos. Open up the Alexa app, connect yonomi in the smart home skills. Hit find devices and Sonos shows up. I added my Sonos individually in the groups section for easier voice control to recognize the device. With yonomi you can add routines to automate things with Sonos. Finally Home automation!

I would like to allow guests to use a play 1 in a guest room but not control any of the other sonos devices in my house. I have a separate guest wifi network with password via an Apple Airport. Do I need to hard wire the Play 1 via ethernet to the Airport? I do not want this device on the sonos network, how do I set it up?

Just brought up a network at home, and the matrix now looks terrible. Details below. Something is clearly wrong. You can see in the attached matrix that there is no root device, and a lot of STP is blocked. Wired devices are turning up orange. This Sonos system has “evolved” over 5 years and several routers, bridge swapped for boost, etc. I feel like it maybe needs a factory reset. There are a few settings in there I care about, but could live without (a couple of playlists, DSP tuning of the speakers). Here are the full details: I'm using Sonos Net for the wireless. Here's the network topology: Unifi USG router -> Unifi switch 8 (root switch). root switch -> Sonos Boost. root switch -> Playbase "Living Room" root switch -> Unifi switch 8 (secondary switch). secondary switch -> Sonos Connect (Office). Sonos Play5 II, wireless, near boost (“Birthday”) Sonos Play5 I, wireless, near connect (“Smoky”) The Unifi switches are set up the recommended way for Sonos. Spa

I have an existing system with 5 various Sonos products and recently acquired an old ZP100 from storage that has not been connected for at least 5-6 years. When I plug the ZP100 the light flashes white for 15-20 seconds then remains solid white. I then attempt to add a new device and the ZP100 is not detected. I have tried connect wirelessly, directly to my router, and plugging into my Play1, and PLay5. I have tried a factory reset as well and have had zero luck. Is there a way to connect via wire to a PC and ping the device to ensure it's getting an IP address or force a software update? I have tried googling for a few hours with no luck. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you,