Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips

That power supply looks like it should work.  I don’t know what the maximum rated power of the Play:5 is, but that one looks like 70 Watts… For me that’s more than enough volume.

As far as connections… There is a triple inductor between the power supply and the downstream electronics.  The purpose of that inductor is to filter noise.  You could hook up to either side of the inductor (since your power supply will have filtering in it), but I would hook up to the inductor on the power supply side.  This way, the outputs from your supply will pass through the inductor and be filtered.  I’ve annotated the 12V, GND, and 24V in the attached image.

There is a small chance that the problem with the power supply circuit will prevent just adding power to the board.  In this case, you would need to separate the built-in power supply from the downstream components.  I would do that by just removing the inductor (desolder it, or cut the legs of it off and remove it).  If you do this, then you will need to connect to the three connection points directly above the ones that I marked (the order is the same as I labelled).

Good luck!

Hi,

I have a new problem with my play 5.

2 components were blown Q27507/Q27502.

2 components shorted, Q27509/27503.

I think the part numbers are 34N B1. What are these? Mosfet? Appreciate it if anyone can share the part numbers of that 4 components in yellow box. Thks!!

And can someone tell me, what size of smd resistors they are, I can't measure up this size

Hi there,

I have the same problems (sorry for my bad english). One of the 120K smd resistors was defect, i place a new one but nothing happens.

On the 2 big elcos i measure 319 vdc but the little one of100uF is charging up to 19v en then back to 5v and thats repeating. When i measure with my scope i see the elco is charge and then recharge. I also replaced the 8p ic on the prim side. I checked al the components on the primair side but nothings wrong??

I’ve just been repairing one of these, using many of the tips here.  Some observations for those following in the footsteps of many:

I had a blown fuse, then needed to track down what else was faulty.  Replaced fuse with same type. I thought the DC measurements were suggesting a problem with the MOSFET switch, so I changed that out with another N-Channel of similar value I had on hand.  The Dim Bulb Tester indicated there was still something wrong, but interestingly I was getting some useful DC voltages. My DC measurements of the bridge rectifier didn’t suggest it was faulty, so I pressed on. Decided to try plugging directly in to the mains. Big mistake. Loud explosion as the fuse self-destructed.
So stepping back I decided to use a process of elimination.  I removed both 100uF charge capacitors.  Replaced fuse, connected Dim Bulb Tester, still showed excess current.  I then removed the bride rectifier and replaced with another I had on hand.  Success: no more large current drain.
I intend changing out the 100UF caps with high quality brand, as well as the electro caps on the cold side.

But this failure of the bridge rectifier is a weird one.  I fix Switched Mode Power Supplies a fair bit.  Bridge rectifiers either go short or open circuit.  It’s as if this is failing under mains voltage?
Anyway, that bridge rectifier is a bugger to get out.  Removing the two 100uF caps gave better access to be able leverage it out whilst hitting it with the soldering iron (after having previously used a desoldering gun on those terminals).

Short circuit Player 5.

Dr Phil, your latest Post. Sorry I can’t find a “New Post” button on this page. Have to ride on yours.

Dead Player 5. Blown fuse. Installed larger fuse - tripped kitchen supply. Tested 8ohms across mains input. De-soldered/pulled one leg of the 2nd right-hand green filter coil (facing mains plug). Short cct now moved to bridge-rectifier. Meaning: replace the blown fuse but don’t waste time checking onward components to rectifier. It’s the 4-pin big black rectangular bastard behind the fat capacitor to the right.

Do not be dissuaded, have patients. Detach hot-glued components with drips of Isopropyl Alcohol bit by bit with screwdriver, easy-peasy. Firstly remove fat capacitor (notice white -ve polarity position). Second: the 4 rectifier legs. High class Sonos pcb (board) needs high temp narrow soldering iron bit. De-soldering braid and solder flux if you have it. Medium screwdriver leverage of component against board.

Yes, ESR tested both fat caps OK. Others too. Gonna replace bridge rectifier and fat caps. Awaiting delivery. And Comments / advice.

How about buying a “for parts only” P5 as usually its the power supply that fails, and swap the amp board from that into this one?

I look all the time for the spare part, I've also looked at another box of mine, it says "E43 955B". So apparently this 955B is a kind of article number. And when I look at these numbers and add onsemi as the manufacturer, according to their products I always come to 1SMB5955B, with the first 5 probably indicating the tolerance.I don't know a lot about electronics and their spare parts.Am I doing something wrong with my search or what would happen if I put this part in and it's the wrong one?

That matches the labelling I had found, so I guess it is the right part.

How do you actually know it’s broken?  It can be hard to confirm bad components when in circuit.  You might want to try removing it and then check it for continuity, and test using diode mode on your meter in both directions.

Hi,

Thought I would add some information to this thread since it helped me resurrect a dead play 5 gen 1.

A few months ago my father informed me that one of his two play 5 speakers was completely dead. After browsing the internet we found that the fuse and rectifier could be possible causes. We opened the speaker and found that fuse was still intact. Some more browsing led us to this thread with other possible causes for a dead speaker. None of the earlier mentioned resistors etc. seemed to be the issue in our unit. Then after randomly measuring resistors with a multimeter I found R27793 near one of the big capacitors being open. 1203 is printed on the resistor and according to this page that means 120 kΩ.

A new 120 kΩ resistor was then soldered to the board and now the speaker is working again. 

Hopefully this can be of some help if someone else would have the same issue. 

 

Again, this only works if it's resistor R27842 that's dead. You can verify this by putting your ohmmeter between TP27376 and TP27377. I was seeing an open circuit there. I soldered my new 1,000 ohm resistor between those two points. I left it laying flat against the board to leave plenty of room when putting everything back together. 

Good luck! 

Thank you

Hi all 

im gunna jump on this thread and ask for some from all you fellow fixerupers

my play had a blown fuse and rectifier which i replaced. however its still dead. i have measured around the board but im not 100% what im looking for. 

so the big ass caps have 86 volts across them. the ac pind of the rectifier has 90 + volts 

is there any test point i should be looking for that anyone knows of? 

thanks all in advance 

theres also  high possibility i have broke somthing replacing that rectifier. is there any test points i can test to between the rectifier and wherever. 

thanks again  

Hello, thanks for the picture.

I have-it fixed finally but I do not know the cause. Here it is in words and pictures:

First, small cap (C27854) is not charging from the AC side, those are probably discharge resistors to the remaining capacity in the filtering caps. It’s another mechanism I could not figure out. The C27854 is providing power to the ICE2QS02 driver chip. It goes thru all those small diodes and caps on the edge of the board. The normal behavior on the voltage for C27854 is that is charging up to around 20V slowly and then ( some of those diodes and transistors do that) turns on the power on the ICE2QS02. 

Once the chip is starting the voltage is self sustaining to around 13 V, I do not understand from where, maybe from the fly back transformer winding itself. 

So for me the challenge was to produce the charging of the C27854 up to 20 to start up the IC. I did this by putting 2 390Kohm from the + on the big caps. I monitor the voltage and it’s ramping up slow, like a second or two. After it reaches 20V the IC starts and it self sustain to 13V. It’s 3 days already and still works! meaning there is no other fail. There was no problem in the fuse or rectifier, nothing burned. As you can see the LED turns on with the 2 resistors soldered. This is the story of this fix.

 

I have no power on pin 7 on ICE2QS02 and when i measure on C27854 it goes from 9 to 18 VDC in a 2-3 second loop, is this the same behaviour as you had?