Play:5, manufacturing date sometime around 2009, is completely dead. No light in LED.
Found several cases of this online, but no solutions.
Does anyone have any knowledge about the problem, og better yet, schematics..
I mainly suspect problem in switch mode power supply. Have only done very basic measuring, but I find 220VAC on primary side, no power on secondary side. I think about ordering a mosfet, and/or a diode I suspect, but if I had schematics I could do some more pinpointing..
I got no voltage on green points of the transformer. 330V DC on primary side. With 24V injected speakers powers up and plays no problem. Anyone can help?
I have a dead Gen 2 Play:5. Does anyone know what the DC voltage produced after the transformer is? There are 3 3300uV capacitors there rated for 35V, so I am guessing that it is 24V, but would like confirmation before injecting 24V. If someone has a working unit, can you please measure the voltage at the points on the left of this image (where I have soldered in two black wires)?
This unit had a bad mosfet (I have removed it and the empty pads are visible in the image). I tried replacing the mosfet but didn’t have a good match. When I did this I only got about 15V but it wouldn’t generate enough amperage to allow the device to boot. When I inject 15V from an external source, it does work. That tells me that the mosfet I used wouldn’t pass enough power, or there is some other kind of problem causing the voltage sag.
Thanks!
Hi I send you private message. Voltage between those two pints when injected 24V speaker works. But power supply on its own is dead. I'm getting no volatge on the secondary side of the transformer. Why? How to figure it out if transformer is dead?
I just succesfully repaired my Sonos play5 gen 1. I replaced the bridge rectifier, fuse near the net connection, 2 condensors (100uF, 400V, I used 120 uF) at the powersupply. Near the power supply is a set of 4 smd resistors of 120kOhm. Two were out so I swapped those with classic resistors and finally I replaced the 5 condensors (820 uF, 35V). Now it works! So happy. Thank you all for the info on the forum, it really helped me!
Yep...that’s certainly an option…..I would just love the satisfaction of being able to repair it though. Its crappy that Sonos can’t provide component lists for discontinued products….even the circuit diagrams...really no reason
They are going to be in trouble with the European Unions ‘right to repair’ laws…..
For devices designed around 15 years ago? I doubt it.
For all products they currently sell in Europe…..
Yep...that’s certainly an option…..I would just love the satisfaction of being able to repair it though. Its crappy that Sonos can’t provide component lists for discontinued products….even the circuit diagrams...really no reason
They are going to be in trouble with the European Unions ‘right to repair’ laws…..
For devices designed around 15 years ago? I doubt it.
For me, both mids and highs were also without function. I replaced all the capacitors, after that no more problems.
Ahh if only it were that simple for me. While indeed the caps may be also an issue…..there are so many other blown components on the board
How about buying a “for parts only” P5 as usually its the power supply that fails, and swap the amp board from that into this one?
Yep...that’s certainly an option…..I would just love the satisfaction of being able to repair it though. Its crappy that Sonos can’t provide component lists for discontinued products….even the circuit diagrams...really no reason
They are going to be in trouble with the European Unions ‘right to repair’ laws…..
For me, both mids and highs were also without function. I replaced all the capacitors, after that no more problems.
Ahh if only it were that simple for me. While indeed the caps may be also an issue…..there are so many other blown components on the board
How about buying a “for parts only” P5 as usually its the power supply that fails, and swap the amp board from that into this one?
For me, both mids and highs were also without function. I replaced all the capacitors, after that no more problems.
Ahh if only it were that simple for me. While indeed the caps may be also an issue…..there are so many other blown components on the board
For me, both mids and highs were also without function. I replaced all the capacitors, after that no more problems.
Seems to be repairable but there is alot of work, skill and correct tools to get it right.
mmm skill I don’t have...tools I can acquire. From somebody with no experience these tiny capacitors look the most difficult...is there any way I can find out what they actually are?
Yes thats the one thats bad. The other glued on...is it also soldered? Could be that track is broken on the other side of board so they mounted it like that.
Now that I look at it closely the furthest away leg is soldered on...just but the front leg is not, just glued! It looks...because this capacitor is maybe bigger diameter than the original, they thought it was quick and easy just to bend legs and fit in this way…..clearly very badly! So sorting out these easy to fix capacitors on the power side of the board will give me a bit of practice!
Seems to be repairable but there is alot of work, skill and correct tools to get it right.
Yes thats the one thats bad. The other glued on...is it also soldered? Could be that track is broken on the other side of board so they mounted it like that.
U definitely have capacitor issues. I would fix bad capacitors first and also mount that glued cap properly. The cap next to it have a bulge on top so its bad. Probably more caps.
Thanks for that quick reply Ken. Now that you’ve pointed it out….yes capacitor next door does have a bulging top indeed well noted. I’ve looked in detail at all other big capacitors and that’s the only one with bulging top. That cap was one that has been previously removed and refitted. So that needs replacing but your also saying that the the one with the bent legs glue to board should be properly installed….wonder why anyone would leave it this way?
For clarity this is the cap with bulging top:
U definitely have capacitor issues. I would fix bad capacitors first and also mount that glued cap properly. The cap next to it have a bulge on top so its bad. Probably more caps.
Hi, First post here and I’m asking for help with my Play 5 1gen. Bought used and claimed to be working. It powers up fine and connects to WiFi, also streams music fine, so power supply and networking components all working. Problem is both the left and right mids have gone and bass sounds questionable. Now in opening it up it has been worked on before, I can see older style resistors added and think bridge rectifier replaced. There is clear evidence that the main amplifier capacitors have been looked at...probably de-soldered and tested and refitted, this is judging by the flux stains on the back of the board. So I’m assuming speaker failed for power supply issue but when that was fixed the sound issue was discovered, capacitors checked but no solution found.
Now when I visually check board at the amplifier section there is carnage with what looks like multiple failed components. See pics:
The capacitors C27604 & C27608 were barely attached by one leg and fell off as soon as I touched them, They look OK (tiny) one measures 3.5nF, the other 0.24nF...don’t know if this means good or bad? The fact that they were hanging off must mean they have blown?
Resistor R27852...looks bad and measures 2.7Mohms
This is the biggy…..Q27303 has exploded, Q27305 and diode D27305 have split casing which I assume means they must have failed? Diode D27306 looks OK but board around it looks a bit cooked?
Lastly and this I’m assuming is nothing but this capacitor on the power section of the board is not connected, legs are just bent over and glued to board. Any idea what this is about. Its capacitor C27881.
So question….is it even worth or rather possible attempting to repair? I have no experience of surface mount electronics like this but do have a soldering station so…..happy to give it a go and see it as an interesting project. Bigger issue I’m guessing is identifying component and their availability.
So what do you think guys any and all thoughts gratefully received!
I just fixed a Sonos play 5 gen 1.
I had to replace the bridge rectifier and fuse.
I also had to replace all except 1 cap on secondary and 2 on primary. First i replaced 8 caps with bulge and tryed the speaker. It started and played but 1 mid and 1 tweeter didnt work.
Started to faultfind and all seemed fine. Then i tested the 2 small output caps (100uF) they were 12pF and 48pF.
I just then decided to take off all secondary electrolytic caps and test them. All bad except one
Works great
Only one problem. I used a 2,5A fuse instead of 3.15A cause i had only 4A next size. Seems to hold for now
Im not sure its worth it in cost but i enjoy fixing stuff
Probably an Texas instruments SN74AC04 or 74AC04
Hi, it's me again. Since my first 2 play 5 are running now I have another problem. Can anyone tell me which component is in the picture? I can't find anything about it on the internet.
Thank you
Again, this only works if it's resistor R27842 that's dead. You can verify this by putting your ohmmeter between TP27376 and TP27377. I was seeing an open circuit there. I soldered my new 1,000 ohm resistor between those two points. I left it laying flat against the board to leave plenty of room when putting everything back together.
Good luck!
I should have taken a picture before I put it back together. Sorry! But if you flip that board over and post a pic of that area, I can point to what I mean.
If you hold a strong light up to the board you can follow the trace where that resistor is located, and you'll see two points of light shining through on either side of the resistor. Those points have a small solder bump on the back side. That's where I connected my replacement resistor.
This only works if it's that exact resistor that's dead.
Can someone tell me the value of resistor R27842? Looks like it starts with “01..” but can’t be sure and I definitely can’t make out the last digit. It’s reading open. I think I scraped off some of the markings trying to get the glue off of it.
Just wanted to report back with another SUCCESS. My symptom was a slow blinking white light upon power up. This 1k ohm resistor was my problem.
On the bottom side of the board are two points labeled with a TPxxxxx number (are these Test Points?) that are on either side of this resistor, and much easier to access than trying to squeeze into this space with a larger resistor. I removed the dead 1k ohm 0603 SMD resistor from the board and soldered an old carbon film resistor I had laying around from my old college lab days (class of ‘89) across those “test points” on the back side.
Powered up, found my network right away, and it’s back to making music. Thanks to everyone in this thread. All of the posts helped me track this down and fix it.
Can you please show me the points you mean? I have the same problem. Thanks
Can someone tell me the value of resistor R27842? Looks like it starts with “01..” but can’t be sure and I definitely can’t make out the last digit. It’s reading open. I think I scraped off some of the markings trying to get the glue off of it.
Just wanted to report back with another SUCCESS. My symptom was a slow blinking white light upon power up. This 1k ohm resistor was my problem.
On the bottom side of the board are two points labeled with a TPxxxxx number (are these Test Points?) that are on either side of this resistor, and much easier to access than trying to squeeze into this space with a larger resistor. I removed the dead 1k ohm 0603 SMD resistor from the board and soldered an old carbon film resistor I had laying around from my old college lab days (class of ‘89) across those “test points” on the back side.
Powered up, found my network right away, and it’s back to making music. Thanks to everyone in this thread. All of the posts helped me track this down and fix it.
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