Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips

Userlevel 1

Play:5, manufacturing date sometime around 2009, is completely dead. No light in LED.

Found several cases of this online, but no solutions.

Does anyone have any knowledge about the problem, og better yet, schematics..

I mainly suspect problem in switch mode power supply. Have only done very basic measuring, but I find 220VAC on primary side, no power on secondary side. I think about ordering a mosfet, and/or a diode I suspect, but if I had schematics I could do some more pinpointing..

208 replies

Can someone tell me the value of resistor R27842?  Looks like it starts with “01..” but can’t be sure and I definitely can’t make out the last digit. It’s reading open. I think I scraped off some of the markings trying to get the glue off of it.




Just wanted to report back with another SUCCESS.  My symptom was a slow blinking white light upon power up.  This 1k ohm resistor was my problem.

On the bottom side of the board are two points labeled with a TPxxxxx number (are these Test Points?) that are on either side of this resistor, and much easier to access than trying to squeeze into this space with a larger resistor. I removed the dead 1k ohm 0603 SMD resistor from the board and soldered an old carbon film resistor I had laying around from my old college lab days (class of ‘89) across those “test points” on the back side.

Powered up, found my network right away, and it’s back to making music. Thanks to everyone in this thread.  All of the posts helped me track this down and fix it.

I just fixed a Sonos play 5 gen 1. 


I had to replace the bridge rectifier and fuse.

I also had to replace all except 1 cap on secondary and 2 on primary. First i replaced 8 caps with bulge and tryed the speaker. It started and played but 1 mid and 1 tweeter didnt work. 

Started to faultfind and all seemed fine. Then i tested the 2 small output caps (100uF) they were 12pF and 48pF. 

I just then decided to take off all secondary electrolytic caps and test them. All bad except one 😛


Works great 👍


Only one problem. I used a 2,5A fuse instead of 3.15A cause i had only 4A next size. Seems to hold for now


Im not sure its worth it in cost but i enjoy fixing stuff 😊


Thanks a lot Jine
I have a sonos5 first gen with a power supply issue and you're right, it was a problem of fuse and rectifier.
The rectifier was effectively hard to desolder. After replacement of both component my Sonos sings again !!
Thanks again to the community
JJH from France
Userlevel 4
Badge +5

SO… My success 2 days ago inspired me to have another look at the two other dead units that I have.

I found a common problem to both of them, and got both working!

I had looked at everything in the high voltage section of the power supply, and couldn’t find any bad components.  Despite this, the devices were both not working, and on closer inspection were resetting about once every 5 seconds… There was power ramping up, and just as it hit 20V in the driver power to the IC, it would fall back to 10V or so and start over. This is a problem that others have had on this forum (and in this thread).

I looked at the datasheet for the PWM (ICE2QS02G), and realized that I had not checked the feedback section of the circuit.  This is the bit on the ‘other side’ of the opto-isolator.  Most of this part of the circuit is buried in glue, but sure enough, when I checked the resistors there, both of my devices had bad resistors in the same spot!  The resistor in question is a very small surface mount, with the marking “68b”.  Looking in the EIA listings , this is a 4.99k resistor.  Both of my devices had open resistors.  I added 1/8 watt 4.7k resistors (I didn’t have 5k), and lo and behold both devices now work.

The lower value resistor did have the effect of making the device run at 13V/26V instead of 12V/24V.  I don’t see this as a problem, as there are several EH31 regulators on the board, and the only thing (I think) that would be driven directly by these voltages would be the actual audio amplifiers.  Those should be tolerant.

Bad resistor -- preventing boot
new resistor -- fixed boot issue and device works great now!


I just succesfully repaired my Sonos play5 gen 1. I replaced the bridge rectifier, fuse near the net connection, 2 condensors (100uF, 400V, I used 120 uF) at the powersupply. Near the power supply is a set of 4 smd resistors of 120kOhm. Two were out so I swapped those with classic resistors and finally I replaced the 5 condensors (820 uF, 35V). Now it works! So happy. Thank you all for the info on the forum, it really helped me!


Same issue here.
I'm looking into doing a repair in my workshop, not field service :)

I opened it and see it looks quite well built, except for the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese capacitors.
At least none of them are bulged though.

Let's keep each other updated here about any info we find.
And it worked! New rectifier and fuse, and the Dead:5 is now a Play:5 again...
Thank you all for the contributions. I have been able to repair my play 5 without technical training. The play 5 was completely dead. The parts as described for a few euros ordered at aliexpress and after 4 weeks of waiting I could work on de play 5. It was the most awkward thing without damaging anything, removing the rectifier. In the end, the play5 plays for a few euros and a few hours of patient and meticulous it works again.

It was a qualified guess that the chip was defect

i found a video online of repair of a Sonos zp100 

here he changed the usual suspects. One of was the small chip So I just did the same.  

kind regards Anders

Userlevel 4
Badge +5

I have no idea, but can tell me somebody, what part it is,it is brocken. There is writtrn "2F8".



I found an old Play:5 board, and this was labelled 2fx on the one I found.  That also doesn’t come up, but if I had to guess, I’d say it is an NPN transistor BC850W.  That’s based on the ‘2f’ part of the code(s), and the fact that it’s an SOT-323 device.

Userlevel 4
Badge +5
Ok I understand. So you mean that I could only use one capacitor with 2 or 3nf instead of the 2 SMD capacitors?

It’s always best to replace like for like.  However, if I didn’t have the parts or was in a hurry, I would just remove the 0.1nF capacitor, install a 2nF capacitor, and see if it works.  This circuitry is on the ‘high side’ of the power supply, and is just used to get the oscillator working.  The circuit will be quite tolerant of capacitor variation.

You asked about voltage for the capacitor.  The oscillator chip is rated for up to 27V, but it would probably be operating in the 15-20V range.  I don’t know if these capacitors are between GND and VCC or not, but if you pick a capacitor that is rated ~25V or higher you will be covered.

I would make one more point … why did these 3 components get smoked?  It seems like a strange part of the circuit to break in that way.  It is possible that you have another problem you haven’t found yet.  I would question if the oscillator itself is working or not, given it is very close to where you seem to have had a power problem.


Userlevel 4
Badge +5


I have a new problem with my play 5.

2 components were blown Q27507/Q27502.

2 components shorted, Q27509/27503.

I think the part numbers are 34N B1. What are these? Mosfet? Appreciate it if anyone can share the part numbers of that 4 components in yellow box. Thks!


On my board, all 4 of those components are the same, and are labelled DMB B8.  That is a DMP3098L (P-CHANNEL ENHANCEMENT MODE MOSFET

The really weird part though is that “34N” is a different device!  That’s an N-channel mosfet:

Good luck!

Userlevel 4
Badge +5

Hi guys,can someone tell me, what part it is in the red circle (capacitor, resistor) and what readings it have to?


It is the wifi card of a Player 5; Gen1.


That’s a capacitor.  It looks like it is in series with the antenna.  I measured one(in circuit) and got readings that fluctuated a lot.  They were between 0.6nF and 3nF.

For a 2.4GHz wifi, a 1nF capacitor will act like a 0.066 ohm resistance, which feels correct to me.

Userlevel 4
Badge +5

Wenn I connect the Box per LAN, i works all good. But after a Reset, the Box is flashing red. So I think, it couldn't be an bad chip. The Box do the Updates and everything, and after the connect per LAN, Iran pairing it per wifi in the setting.

That’s helpful.  It could be that the WIFI module is bad, if you can’t get it to connect over wifi.  (and I mean something bigger than just a bad antenna connection).  You can try to swap a wifi card from another sonos device and see if that helps.  The play:5, connect, and connect:Amp all use the same wifi module (stay away from the older ZP80s - they are not compatible).

Userlevel 4
Badge +5

Although i can connect the Box after i paired the Box per LAN, i am able to switch the settings to wifi? It is passable to repair a wifi Module?


Sorry but I’ve never done it (or tried).

Hello, thanks for the picture.

I have-it fixed finally but I do not know the cause. Here it is in words and pictures:

First, small cap (C27854) is not charging from the AC side, those are probably discharge resistors to the remaining capacity in the filtering caps. It’s another mechanism I could not figure out. The C27854 is providing power to the ICE2QS02 driver chip. It goes thru all those small diodes and caps on the edge of the board. The normal behavior on the voltage for C27854 is that is charging up to around 20V slowly and then ( some of those diodes and transistors do that) turns on the power on the ICE2QS02. 

Once the chip is starting the voltage is self sustaining to around 13 V, I do not understand from where, maybe from the fly back transformer winding itself. 

So for me the challenge was to produce the charging of the C27854 up to 20 to start up the IC. I did this by putting 2 390Kohm from the + on the big caps. I monitor the voltage and it’s ramping up slow, like a second or two. After it reaches 20V the IC starts and it self sustain to 13V. It’s 3 days already and still works! meaning there is no other fail. There was no problem in the fuse or rectifier, nothing burned. As you can see the LED turns on with the 2 resistors soldered. This is the story of this fix.

The 2 390Kohm resistors from plus to C27854
Final resistors placement
Final result, The power led turns ON!


I have no power on pin 7 on ICE2QS02 and when i measure on C27854 it goes from 9 to 18 VDC in a 2-3 second loop, is this the same behaviour as you had?

i have the same problem, pin7 no power(0.1 or 0.5v), c27854 get loop vdc,have you fixed the problem by use putting 2 390Kohm from the + on the big caps?


Hi That’s US looking for The Netherlands.





Hi there,

My sonos play 5 power board had some overvoltage and some parts are blown.

I managed to bring it back to life bij mounting a new PCB fuse3.15A and 2 capacitors 47K275V-X2

2 other components are broken and i cant determine what type they where.

Its about TH27700 at the inlet AC current side, i asume this is a NTC or PTC.

Also MOV27700 is broken, this should be a varistor after the first filter coils.


Does anyone know the partnumbers of these 2 components? You would realy help me out.


Thnx a lot!

The MOV27700 varistor is marked “TVR14471*”.  TH27700 is an NTC thermistor “SCK 054”.

Good luck!


Userlevel 4
Badge +5

I just had a success fixing a dead play:5 so thought I’d share it.  The device would not boot up. When I measured the voltage driving the PWM chip, I found it was ramping slowly from 7-8V up to about 19V, then dropping back to 7-8V and repeating.  The frequency of this was about 3-4 seconds.

I found a 10 ohm resistor that was open (R27797).  I replaced it with another 10 ohm and the device now works.  I only had a much much larger wattage resistor, but it got the job done.  Images are attached.

I had some other dead boards with the exact same ramping of voltage.  Unfortunately when I checked them, none of them had the same failure.  Hopefully this can help someone else though!

R27797 replacement


1. Fuse is close to mains connector. Red cylindrical one I'd say. Maybe it was 3.15AT??? Not sure.
Measure every component in series with line voltage if you're unsure which one is a fuse.

2. Rectifier on the mains voltage side. There is only one rectifier. Black with 4 feet..

Correct, check these components first, after that - also verify that the thermistor next to the power socket isn't faulty.

KBU606 is the rectifier, a bit hard to desolder - but possible.

3.15A is indeed the fuse (3.15a slow blow fuse) -

And as jlithen said - messure all other components on the HW-side aswell (capacitors, diods and similar).

Good luck!
Userlevel 4
Badge +5

I have a dead Gen 2 Play:5.  Does anyone know what the DC voltage produced after the transformer is?  There are 3 3300uV capacitors there rated for 35V, so I am guessing that it is 24V, but would like confirmation before injecting 24V.  If someone has a working unit, can you please measure the voltage at the points on the left of this image (where I have soldered in two black wires)?

This unit had a bad mosfet (I have removed it and the empty pads are visible in the image).  I tried replacing the mosfet but didn’t have a good match.  When I did this I only got about 15V but it wouldn’t generate enough amperage to allow the device to boot.  When I inject 15V from an external source, it does work.  That tells me that the mosfet I used wouldn’t pass enough power, or there is some other kind of problem causing the voltage sag.



Great article. My play 5 sings again. Thank you so much!

Last resort is to add in a class D amp to it. Not ideal at all, but at least, sound is back.


Hi Jesper


How did you conclude that 2QS02G was defect? I have 1 of the capacitors 820uf 35V that are defect, so I will change them.




Userlevel 4
Badge +5

What is the nature of the repair that you did? 

I have seen units that have one of the five audio amplification channels die. It is usually the bass that goes, if I recall correctly.  That's what it sounds like your problem may be.  There is no straightforward repair that I know of.