Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips

Yet another option…

24v ‘brick’ power supply… https://www.amazon.com/JOVNO-100-240V-Transformer-Converter-5-5x2-5mm/dp/B0875ZSKGR

And this installed inside the enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/EPBOWPT-Converter-Regulator-Voltage-Transformer/dp/B07V6X6L89

Is there any problem if use a laptop adapter 20V instead of 24V input? I have some adapters here and don’t want to buy any extras. 

Ok...thx

A definite maybe.

1. You need to worry about wattage as much as voltage.  You would want to use a supply with enough wattage.  95% of music I play is not so loud that I can’t have a conversation around it… That kind of level would be fine with 20 watts.  I just looked at a Lenovo laptop adapter.  It is marked output 20V 2.25A.  That works out to 20*2.25=45 watts (before anyone jumps in to say this isn’t right -- it’s close enough for this conversation).  Most laptop adapters should have enough wattage to work
2. Most amplifiers will operate with a range of input voltages.  You may get clipping or dropouts if you try to turn the volume up to a point beyond what the power supply can manage.  Below that level it would work ok.  If something is designed to work with 24V, and you feed it 20V, then you can expect a maximum output wattage of about 70% of the designed output.  (This is calculated as (20/24)^2 ).
3. Sonos is not necessarily “most amplifiers”.  I have done a ton of work with ZP120 repairs.  Those operate with several internal voltages.  In particular, the audio section works at about 15 volts, until you turn the volume up... then a 36 Volt circuit comes on.  The ZP120 has a voltage sensing circuit in it, and if the 36V circuit does not activate properly, it reports an error and ramps the volume down to about 10%.  My experience is that this circuit must be 36V -- not 30V and not even 40V.
4. I don’t know if the Play:5 has the same kind of voltage detection as the ZP120 or not.  I was once able to disable the voltage sensing circuit in a ZP120 and drive it with a different voltage, but it isn’t really a practical fix for the ZP120, let along the Play:5

So the upshot is that you won’t damage anything by hooking it to a 12V and 20V supply (instead of 12V and 24V).  The worst is that it doesn’t work (but it won’t do any permanent damage)

Some more on wattage…

Sonos speaker wattages are not (as far as I know) published.  It’s also hard to reverse engineer, since it is not driving 1 or two simple speakers.  There are 5 separate amplifier circuits for the 5 speakers.  I have measured the 5 speakers, and they seem to be 7 ohm tweeters, 3 ohm mids, and 3.6 ohm bass.  There is also some crossover and equalizer circuitry.  If I make some very coarse assumptions, then I calculate a maximum wattage of 200 Watts.  Paring this back for crossovers, as well as frequency impedance curves, I’d be surprised if a 70 Watt supply wasn’t more than sufficient.  (and if you’re using a 20 Volt supply, then apply the above 70%, and you’d be ok with a 50 watt adapter).  This seems to me to be more than reasonable from another angle… when I look at the circuitry of the power supply, it ‘seems’ to match these kinds of numbers based on its physical size.

How mich W must have the resistor or doesnt care?

maybe 0.1w or below，i guess

Hello,

My play 5 Gen 1 is acting a bit strange. when i power the speaker up it is working fine. when i restart (unplug an replug) the play 5, to move it for example. it won’t boot up. no lights no sound.

if i wait a couple hours it will boot up again. can this be a capacitor fault or a thermistor somewhere?

I desoldered all the capacitors and measured them, they seem te be okay. (capacity measurement only, no ESR)

my voltages are similar to Anders J. Instead of 0V i get between 0-2 volts which should be 11-12 and 24V. so i think the problem should be somewhere on the HV side.

Since the speaker wont turn on for a while could this mean the capacitors have to be empty first?

(picture from Anders J.)

Hi together.

I managed to repair a play 5 with power poroblems. Fuse, Rectifier and Caps were good, so i checked the whole thread here and found the problem. R27794 and R27796 were open.

Now i purchased another one. Poor speaker quality.

Sub and one middle speaker are working. So i opened it up and found it pretty easy.

unfortunately, i don´t find those parts. Maybe someone could help?

Q27202 and Q27204 are done. some caps too.

Thanks

Hello,

Maybe someone here can help me With my problem With my Play 5.

I have Some exploded smd capacitors/resistors/transistors on my board.

Might someone know the values of the following components: 

C27852/C27855/D27714.

I found a helpful picture on this forum to know what the resistor values are.

Hoping someone can help me.

Thanks in advance.

CNS

My Play:5 working again. If nothing helps you can power it with an external adapter.

My setup: 

• A laptop power adapter (20V - 6A)
• DC-DC converter (24-12V)
• DC connector (female)

The power is enough for max volume and there is no problem.

Thanks for the advice.

 

 

You beat me to it by a few hours!  Nice job!

I just repaired mine too.  I ordered a 24V/4A power supply very cheap on AMazon… $18CAD https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08NYHM4J9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .  I chose this one because it was 250 grams, approximately 95 watts, and the size seemed like it would fit -inside- the case.

I had a few DC-DC converters on hand like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07Y88RTXJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was fortunately able to fit everything inside the case.  I piggybacked the 120V supply to the AC-DC supply from the existing socket, and connected my DC-DC converter at the triple inductor like I had suggested a week or so ago.  I opened the power supply case, removed the existing wires, and soldered it all in directly.  I had to trim the two bass reflex ports about an inch, and was able to position the brick just below those centered between the two mid speakers at the back of the case.  I wrapped the PS brick it in a sheet of foam to avoid vibration.  It’s a snug fit, but everything went together perfectly.  There is no vibration, and I can’t tell the sound difference between this and an unmodified speaker.

 

@timc995 , @mesahin , sound like a practical solution . i’m a complete electronics novice but have a soldering iron and planning to deploy it :).  i have a 12v 5a and a 24v 5a supply, do i connect both negative lines to ground and the +12V and +24v as below?

Can anyone help clarify  if the below diagrams look correct, completely unsure where the -12 V and -24V lines go to,?  both to ground?