Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips



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Hello, 

 

nice Tread. Thanks for the details. I have a quite similar problem and Resistor 21817 burnt away. Can anyone please provide the value for this resistor?

 

@Anders J: Is your unit working again? Mine also had the shunt resistor and the MOSFET burned out. You might want to have a look there. 

 

BR

BATTA

Hello everybody,

I also had a dead play:5 gen 1. Fuse blown and faulty rectifier. I also replaced some caps while the speaker was open:

- the 2 large 400V caps of the power supply.  Not sure if they were defective, but without them, it was easier to remove the defective rectifier.

- the 5 35V 820uF caps of the power amp; the heads were bulging.

- the 2 25V 470uF caps that feed the tweeters, they had also bulging heads.

The speaker came alive. So far so good. But the 5 35V 820uF caps are getting really hot. I replaced them again with Panasonic 30mOhm caps, with the same result.

The speaker housing is becoming more hot compared to another play:5 I have.

So I think there must be somewhere a problem that causes my caps to heat and finally damaged them. Or I purchased a wrong type of caps.

Does anyone has an idea?

 

I just had a success fixing a dead play:5 so thought I’d share it.  The device would not boot up. When I measured the voltage driving the PWM chip, I found it was ramping slowly from 7-8V up to about 19V, then dropping back to 7-8V and repeating.  The frequency of this was about 3-4 seconds.

I found a 10 ohm resistor that was open (R27797).  I replaced it with another 10 ohm and the device now works.  I only had a much much larger wattage resistor, but it got the job done.  Images are attached.

I had some other dead boards with the exact same ramping of voltage.  Unfortunately when I checked them, none of them had the same failure.  Hopefully this can help someone else though!

R27797 replacement

 

Thanks Tim,

Replacing this resistor and a 120k resistor near the ac filters fixed my dead play 5.

Tom

Hi,

This is probably the best repair resource for this speaker on the internet.

Just thought I should add to the repository.

The Switching ICs power was pulsing and nothing came out of the power transistor.
The problem was that R21812 was open, i stole a picture from this forum to circle the component.

 

Thanks to everyone on this forum.

 

Hi,

 

So finaly replaced the NTC SCK054 and the KBU606 (took a lager one as this one was not available) Replaced the large Caps 400v with new Phillips and all is back to live again. Except for one issue.

 

I noticed the left tweeter cracking from time to time randomly. (testes wiith another tweeter same issue).

So replaces the small caps 100uf 25v which are feeding the 2 tweeters (just traced back from the board pin to see which where connected ther are right behin the inductors.

However this did not solve the proble so i’m wondering what is causing the cracking sound on only the left tweeter.

If someone could point me into the right direction?

 

Hemant

 

 

The small caps should be 25V 470uF? Maybe that is the cause?

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Does Volt play a role or how much should I take?

Can someone tell me the value of resistor R27842?  Looks like it starts with “01..” but can’t be sure and I definitely can’t make out the last digit. It’s reading open. I think I scraped off some of the markings trying to get the glue off of it.

 

 

 

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I have no idea, but can tell me somebody, what part it is,it is brocken. There is writtrn "2F8".

 

 

I found an old Play:5 board, and this was labelled 2fx on the one I found.  That also doesn’t come up, but if I had to guess, I’d say it is an NPN transistor BC850W.  That’s based on the ‘2f’ part of the code(s), and the fact that it’s an SOT-323 device.  https://www.s-manuals.com/smd/2f

 

Thank you for your tip. I look again and you are right, its 2fx written on the Pieve. But it is to small, so i think,its an SOT 23...so what could it be?

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Following for any more information on a Sonos 5 that’s having power amp issues. I’m about to get mine apart and have determined only that it must be the power amp ( headphones out ok, aux in no output, speaker out very faint audio) 

All guidance greatly appreciated! 😊

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That’s a capacitor.  It looks like it is in series with the antenna.  I measured one(in circuit) and got readings that fluctuated a lot.  They were between 0.6nF and 3nF.

For a 2.4GHz wifi, a 1nF capacitor will act like a 0.066 ohm resistance, which feels correct to me.

By the way, there are identical capacitors adjacent to the other 2 SMA terminals for the other two antennas - you can try to measure those.  There is no reason that a bad capacitor on one will prevent the device from working, as they will work fine with only 2 antennas.

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I bought the box as defective because one of the antenna connections was break off. After I soldered it on, the lamp flashes red after the reset. Then I found out that the component was defective. I thought it was that capacitor. Or why could the lamp still blink red?
Userlevel 4
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I bought the box as defective because one of the antenna connections was break off. After I soldered it on, the lamp flashes red after the reset. Then I found out that the component was defective. I thought it was that capacitor. Or why could the lamp still blink red?

If it is flashing red (and not amber), then that would indicate a bad boot-up.  This is usually due to a bad flash (either the chip has physically failed, or the contents are bad due to a failed upgrade).  Unfortunately, your device is probably not repairable.

Userlevel 7
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Yep...that’s certainly an option…..I would just love the satisfaction of being able to repair it though. Its crappy that Sonos can’t provide component lists for discontinued products….even the circuit diagrams...really no reason 😌 

They are going to be in trouble with the European Unions ‘right to repair’ laws…..

For devices designed around 15 years ago? I doubt it.

After 2 weeks, i found a failure. First both mid speakers were dead.

After replacing this cap

the right mid speaker worked again. But not the left one. i had almost every part in my hands until i found it. one mosfet had a slightly different voltage drop when measuring. Replaced it and YEAH!!!

 

The pics are taken of a spare mainboard, so don´t wonder about the black holes and missing parts.

Today i started the repair of my first gen2. I saw similar pictures in this thread, unfortunately without solution… Maybe one of you has an idea.

The speaker works with 24V injected. So it´s worth trying.

Has anyone succesfully repaired this?

Thanks, Flo

 

 

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The space is pretty tight inside the play5. I don’t think you can fit in the power supply. 

1. Fuse is close to mains connector. Red cylindrical one I'd say. Maybe it was 3.15AT??? Not sure.
Measure every component in series with line voltage if you're unsure which one is a fuse.

2. Rectifier on the mains voltage side. There is only one rectifier. Black with 4 feet.

Sorry but if you do not recognize those components you may need to study some more electronics before repairing.

In fact you better measure capacitors and switching FET before you attempt to power it up.
Check as much as possible ...and preferably power it up with current limiting.
Some components cause lots of damage if unit is powered up with them blown or shorted.


Old thread i know, but i cam across this when researching my faulty Play 5 (1st Gen). The play 5 wouldn't show any signs of life. No power light and cannot be seen via app.

I opened it up follow logic and this take apart:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Sonos+Play+5+Motherboard+Replacement/87677

I tested the fuse and bridge Rectifier and as you say both faulty.

Bit of a mission desoldering the Rectifer. But all swapped over for new parts got from RS next day delivery and about £7.
The Play 5 is ALIVE!!!!!!

Thank you so much for this post. If i have another son, i shall call him Jlithen!
Userlevel 4
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The space is pretty tight inside the play5. I don’t think you can fit in the power supply. 

True.  Another option is to have the replacement power supply in a separate enclosure with just the low voltage 12v/12v fed in through a small hold in the back.  The supply can be hidden quite far away from the speaker, if that's what your setup requires.

Userlevel 4
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The space is pretty tight inside the play5. I don’t think you can fit in the power supply. 

True.  Another option is to have the replacement power supply in a separate enclosure with just the low voltage 12v/12v fed in through a small hold in the back.  The supply can be hidden quite far away from the speaker, if that's what your setup requires.

Yet another option…

24v ‘brick’ power supply… https://www.amazon.com/JOVNO-100-240V-Transformer-Converter-5-5x2-5mm/dp/B0875ZSKGR

And this installed inside the enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/EPBOWPT-Converter-Regulator-Voltage-Transformer/dp/B07V6X6L89

 

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Wenn I connect the Box per LAN, i works all good. But after a Reset, the Box is flashing red. So I think, it couldn't be an bad chip. The Box do the Updates and everything, and after the connect per LAN, Iran pairing it per wifi in the setting.

The space is pretty tight inside the play5. I don’t think you can fit in the power supply. 

True.  Another option is to have the replacement power supply in a separate enclosure with just the low voltage 12v/12v fed in through a small hold in the back.  The supply can be hidden quite far away from the speaker, if that's what your setup requires.

Yet another option…

24v ‘brick’ power supply… https://www.amazon.com/JOVNO-100-240V-Transformer-Converter-5-5x2-5mm/dp/B0875ZSKGR

And this installed inside the enclosure: https://www.amazon.com/EPBOWPT-Converter-Regulator-Voltage-Transformer/dp/B07V6X6L89

 

Is there any problem if use a laptop adapter 20V instead of 24V input? I have some adapters here and don’t want to buy any extras. 

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Although i can connect the Box after i paired the Box per LAN, i am able to switch the settings to wifi? It is passable to repair a wifi Module?

 

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Ok...thx

Yes, you are right I was not right… Got carried away with the 220V possibility.. It must be then an overload condition somewhere since the under voltage part is fine. The excessive current detection is thru one of the vertical big resistors I believe. It sucks there is no schematic to do precise measurements, maybe it’s value changed… Hope you will find the cause of this and let us know the fix for the future.

Regards

I agree that it could be an overload problem.  I removed the triple-inductor that sits between the power supply and the actual Sonos.  With this out, the device still cycles power, which tells me that the problem is in the power supply rather than downstream.

So now I guess I’ll have to measure everything and compare to the working unit that I have.  I did check the large resistors and all the diodes a while ago with no luck.  There seems to be a lot of transistors at the front end of this supply… not sure what that’s all for given the sample schematic for the 2QSxxx doesn’t have them.

Measuring the output of the supply (on a working play:5), I see that it provides 12V and 24V supplies.  That's helpful to know… If nothing else works, then I can just install an entirely new AC/DC supply - there seems to be lots of room inside the speaker.  I did this with a play:1 once and it worked great.

 

Hi,

how much power needs play5? I found a power supply. If it is fits (physical and electrical) I will buy and install it. 

Size: 16 * 10 * 4cm

Can you tell me which pins should I connect  24 and 12 volt in play5 mainboard?

This one is at amazon.de 14€, I think it is fair price.

 

 

 

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