Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips

Hi,

I have a dead Play:5 that I´ve been troubleshooting and came across this thread.

Been measuring all the SMD resistors on the primary side without finding anything wrong.

There is 300VDC on the primary but only about 2VDC on the secondary.

Started to measure the secondary side and found a resistor that was open.

It´s the one marked with red, it´s next to the optocoupler and should be a 68b = 5k resistor.

I have replaced it with a 4.7k 0603 resistor and now I have 26VDC and 12.2VDC on the secondary.

Only wanted to share this as this thread helped me in the right direction.

Hi Tim,

Is your play 5 having issue of very soft volume? Then you jumpered the traces and that fixed it?

My Play:5 working again. If nothing helps you can power it with an external adapter.

My setup: 

• A laptop power adapter (20V - 6A)
• DC-DC converter (24-12V)
• DC connector (female)

The power is enough for max volume and there is no problem.

Thanks for the advice.

 

 

You beat me to it by a few hours!  Nice job!

I just repaired mine too.  I ordered a 24V/4A power supply very cheap on AMazon… $18CAD https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08NYHM4J9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .  I chose this one because it was 250 grams, approximately 95 watts, and the size seemed like it would fit -inside- the case.

I had a few DC-DC converters on hand like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07Y88RTXJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was fortunately able to fit everything inside the case.  I piggybacked the 120V supply to the AC-DC supply from the existing socket, and connected my DC-DC converter at the triple inductor like I had suggested a week or so ago.  I opened the power supply case, removed the existing wires, and soldered it all in directly.  I had to trim the two bass reflex ports about an inch, and was able to position the brick just below those centered between the two mid speakers at the back of the case.  I wrapped the PS brick it in a sheet of foam to avoid vibration.  It’s a snug fit, but everything went together perfectly.  There is no vibration, and I can’t tell the sound difference between this and an unmodified speaker.

 

@timc995 , @mesahin , sound like a practical solution . i’m a complete electronics novice but have a soldering iron and planning to deploy it :).  i have a 12v 5a and a 24v 5a supply, do i connect both negative lines to ground and the +12V and +24v as below?

 

Can anyone help clarify  if the below diagrams look correct, completely unsure where the -12 V and -24V lines go to,?  both to ground?

 

used the upper diagram, its now all systems go, even at full blast it sounds as good as when it was new:). 

Seems I’m in the right place. 
Play:5 2nd gen

lower 3 speakers work fine. Top left & right outer speakers very faint. Top center tweeter doesn’t seem to output at all. 
audio pcb board doesn’t seem to show anything with obvious damage. All visible capacitors seem fine. 
thoughts?

Hi guys,can someone tell me, what part it is in the red circle (capacitor, resistor) and what readings it have to?

It is the wifi card of a Player 5; Gen1.

My Play 5 Gen 2 just died.  It’s not the normal fuse and thermistor.  Looks like it blew two resistors under the heatsink...has anyone seen this or replaced these?

I just had a success fixing a dead play:5 so thought I’d share it.  The device would not boot up. When I measured the voltage driving the PWM chip, I found it was ramping slowly from 7-8V up to about 19V, then dropping back to 7-8V and repeating.  The frequency of this was about 3-4 seconds.

I found a 10 ohm resistor that was open (R27797).  I replaced it with another 10 ohm and the device now works.  I only had a much much larger wattage resistor, but it got the job done.  Images are attached.

I had some other dead boards with the exact same ramping of voltage.  Unfortunately when I checked them, none of them had the same failure.  Hopefully this can help someone else though!

 

Thanks Tim,

Replacing this resistor and a 120k resistor near the ac filters fixed my dead play 5.

Tom

SO… My success 2 days ago inspired me to have another look at the two other dead units that I have.

I found a common problem to both of them, and got both working!

I had looked at everything in the high voltage section of the power supply, and couldn’t find any bad components.  Despite this, the devices were both not working, and on closer inspection were resetting about once every 5 seconds… There was power ramping up, and just as it hit 20V in the driver power to the IC, it would fall back to 10V or so and start over. This is a problem that others have had on this forum (and in this thread).

I looked at the datasheet for the PWM (ICE2QS02G), and realized that I had not checked the feedback section of the circuit.  This is the bit on the ‘other side’ of the opto-isolator.  Most of this part of the circuit is buried in glue, but sure enough, when I checked the resistors there, both of my devices had bad resistors in the same spot!  The resistor in question is a very small surface mount, with the marking “68b”.  Looking in the EIA listings , this is a 4.99k resistor.  Both of my devices had open resistors.  I added 1/8 watt 4.7k resistors (I didn’t have 5k), and lo and behold both devices now work.

The lower value resistor did have the effect of making the device run at 13V/26V instead of 12V/24V.  I don’t see this as a problem, as there are several EH31 regulators on the board, and the only thing (I think) that would be driven directly by these voltages would be the actual audio amplifiers.  Those should be tolerant.

I have no idea, but can tell me somebody, what part it is,it is brocken. There is writtrn "2F8".

 

 

I found an old Play:5 board, and this was labelled 2fx on the one I found.  That also doesn’t come up, but if I had to guess, I’d say it is an NPN transistor BC850W.  That’s based on the ‘2f’ part of the code(s), and the fact that it’s an SOT-323 device.  https://www.s-manuals.com/smd/2f

Thank you for your tip. I look again and you are right, its 2fx written on the Pieve. But it is to small, so i think,its an SOT 23...so what could it be?

By the way, there are identical capacitors adjacent to the other 2 SMA terminals for the other two antennas - you can try to measure those.  There is no reason that a bad capacitor on one will prevent the device from working, as they will work fine with only 2 antennas.

I bought the box as defective because one of the antenna connections was break off. After I soldered it on, the lamp flashes red after the reset. Then I found out that the component was defective. I thought it was that capacitor. Or why could the lamp still blink red?

If it is flashing red (and not amber), then that would indicate a bad boot-up.  This is usually due to a bad flash (either the chip has physically failed, or the contents are bad due to a failed upgrade).  Unfortunately, your device is probably not repairable.

Today i started the repair of my first gen2. I saw similar pictures in this thread, unfortunately without solution… Maybe one of you has an idea.

The speaker works with 24V injected. So it´s worth trying.

Has anyone succesfully repaired this?

Thanks, Flo