Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips



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hi guys!

I tried bypassing the powerboard by copying the schematics above. But no success, my Play5 Gen1 won´t start up. 

Can you spot anything that I´ve done wrong?

(white is +19V from DELL converter/inverter)

When test-connected, I measure +12V out from yellow cable.

When connected to Sonos board I get 0V from yellow.

 

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Hey,

I installed a 2nf capacitor and it works again!!! And the red flashing light is gone. 

Thanks for the update!  That’s a great learning (at least to me) - what a pleasant surprise!

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Sub and one middle speaker are working. So i opened it up and found it pretty easy.

unfortunately, i don´t find those parts. Maybe someone could help?

 

Did you mean that the sub and middle speaker were NOT working?  Or that the other 3 weren’t?

In any event, I had a look on some dead boards I have.  Those chips were marked G64 on the first board I looked at.  That is a P-Channel Enhancement Mode MOSFET DMP3050LVT https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/DMP3050LVT.pdf

 

Thank you so much!!!

 

3 speakers are not working. sub and one middle are working.

i didn´t find these mosfets (in small quantities) in europe, so i´m gonna order at aliexpress. estimated delivery date end of may…

 

 

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Hi guys,

 

can someone tell me, what parts are the following and what I need to replace?

 

R27817

C27852

C27855

 

They are burned.

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Thank you so much!!!

 

3 speakers are not working. sub and one middle are working.

i didn´t find these mosfets (in small quantities) in europe, so i´m gonna order at aliexpress. estimated delivery date end of may…

 

 

Mouser doesn’t have this in stock for me (in Canada) either, but they have this: https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Diodes-Incorporated/DMP3105LVT-7?qs=T%2FOtf55vL7eU%252Ba2ENkxGkA%3D%3D

Looks like it may be compatible.  It has some different specs, but it’s cheap enough that I’d be inclined to try it out rather than wait 2 months...

See Page 6!

Had the same Problem and replaced that part from a spare Board.

After replacing and powering up, an IC burned.

So i didn't continue 

God news my sonos Play 5 sings


I have changed the small chip that controls the mosfet
2QS02G
I also changed the rectifier MBR20150TC, but I do not thing it was defect. I broke it during the removal. I had to take it out to read the type. And therefore had to install a new one.

also changed 5 pcs electrolytic capacitors 820uf 35V


Hi jpotts

It sounds as though the SMPS is trying to start-up, and then it shuts down again, and runds in this cycle. Maybe the control loop is broken

Have you tried to measure if there is any reponse at the optocoupler ? It’s located in the bottom right. Just to the right of the transformer. It’s a SHARP PC817..

Hi all

 

I have been making some fault analysis at my own Play:5. Unfortunately the rectifier bridge and fuse is ok. The MOSFET driver at primary side is at least not shorted.

However the driver (FET, or BJT) at the secondary side is shorted between pin1 and pin3.

However I cannot figure out the tyoe, so it’s a little difficult. However a short circuit between legs is normally not something good ;-)

Or could I be tricked by the fact that the transformer might be connect to pin1 and pin3, so there is a DC short between pin1 and pin3 ?

Hi,

 

So finaly replaced the NTC SCK054 and the KBU606 (took a lager one as this one was not available) Replaced the large Caps 400v with new Phillips and all is back to live again. Except for one issue.

 

I noticed the left tweeter cracking from time to time randomly. (testes wiith another tweeter same issue).

So replaces the small caps 100uf 25v which are feeding the 2 tweeters (just traced back from the board pin to see which where connected ther are right behin the inductors.

However this did not solve the proble so i’m wondering what is causing the cracking sound on only the left tweeter.

If someone could point me into the right direction?

 

Hemant

 

 

So the plot thickens. I repla ed the box cap with a new one that tests ok.. the old is ol. Howerver i still only get around 100 v dc on the rectifier.

Confused .com 

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Here is the best I’ve found on debugging Sonos Play:5 hardware issues:

https://sites.google.com/site/sonosdebug/power-topology

The author includes reverse-engineered information about jtag, serial port, connector, and the power supply (including a very helpful partial circuit diagram)!

There is nothing about the actual power amp.  I have seen a few of these go bad and had only marginal success fixing them.  One finding I did have was that a unit with missing bass had some of the driver ICs not having power.  It turned out that some of the internal traces had burned out between the driver chips.  I jumpered all of the power pins of the 6 ICs together (and all of the grounds too, for good measure), and it solved the problem.

If you have NO sound from the amplifier, then check the biases identified on the schematic and make sure that all of them (12v, 3.3V, 11.1V, 5V) are working.

Hi,

I have a dead Play:5 that I´ve been troubleshooting and came across this thread.

Been measuring all the SMD resistors on the primary side without finding anything wrong.

There is 300VDC on the primary but only about 2VDC on the secondary.

Started to measure the secondary side and found a resistor that was open.

It´s the one marked with red, it´s next to the optocoupler and should be a 68b = 5k resistor.

I have replaced it with a 4.7k 0603 resistor and now I have 26VDC and 12.2VDC on the secondary.

Only wanted to share this as this thread helped me in the right direction.

 

 

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Hi folks, I haven't continued to build on the Play 5 for a long time, but now it's going on.After replacing the bridge rectifier, the fuse, the mosfet and the PWM, among other things, it is now the case that when I check the PWM in diode mode, the correct values ​​are displayed everywhere, except when I measure PIN8 and PIN 4. My other box shows 0.78V, now the broken box shows OL.I believe it's called Voltage Drop.Can someone help me and tell me what could be the reason that nothing is displayed to me? I have already measured everything on HV, everything seems to be correct.And in general, what influences a voltage drop?Diodes, resistors, capacitors?

Thank you.

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Here is the best I’ve found on debugging Sonos Play:5 hardware issues:

https://sites.google.com/site/sonosdebug/power-topology

The author includes reverse-engineered information about jtag, serial port, connector, and the power supply (including a very helpful partial circuit diagram)!

There is nothing about the actual power amp.  I have seen a few of these go bad and had only marginal success fixing them.  One finding I did have was that a unit with missing bass had some of the driver ICs not having power.  It turned out that some of the internal traces had burned out between the driver chips.  I jumpered all of the power pins of the 6 ICs together (and all of the grounds too, for good measure), and it solved the problem.

If you have NO sound from the amplifier, then check the biases identified on the schematic and make sure that all of them (12v, 3.3V, 11.1V, 5V) are working.

Hi Tim,

Is your play 5 having issue of very soft volume? Then you jumpered the traces and that fixed it?

 

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Also the Voltag drop between PIN 1 and PIN4 at the rectifier is wrong.

 

What could it be or is it the same fault as at the PWM?

My Play:5 working again. If nothing helps you can power it with an external adapter.

My setup: 

  • A laptop power adapter (20V - 6A)
  • DC-DC converter (24-12V)
  • DC connector (female)

The power is enough for max volume and there is no problem.

Thanks for the advice.

 

 

You beat me to it by a few hours!  Nice job!

I just repaired mine too.  I ordered a 24V/4A power supply very cheap on AMazon… $18CAD https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08NYHM4J9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .  I chose this one because it was 250 grams, approximately 95 watts, and the size seemed like it would fit -inside- the case.

I had a few DC-DC converters on hand like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07Y88RTXJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was fortunately able to fit everything inside the case.  I piggybacked the 120V supply to the AC-DC supply from the existing socket, and connected my DC-DC converter at the triple inductor like I had suggested a week or so ago.  I opened the power supply case, removed the existing wires, and soldered it all in directly.  I had to trim the two bass reflex ports about an inch, and was able to position the brick just below those centered between the two mid speakers at the back of the case.  I wrapped the PS brick it in a sheet of foam to avoid vibration.  It’s a snug fit, but everything went together perfectly.  There is no vibration, and I can’t tell the sound difference between this and an unmodified speaker.

 

@timc995 , @mesahin , sound like a practical solution . i’m a complete electronics novice but have a soldering iron and planning to deploy it :).  i have a 12v 5a and a 24v 5a supply, do i connect both negative lines to ground and the +12V and +24v as below?

 

Can anyone help clarify  if the below diagrams look correct, completely unsure where the -12 V and -24V lines go to,?  both to ground?

 

used the upper diagram, its now all systems go, even at full blast it sounds as good as when it was new:). 

Hello please can someone tell me what components are in yelow fields? i can see G64 AN and 34AN A8 i cannot find anything. help me, i can donate you via paypal :)

 

Seems I’m in the right place. 
Play:5 2nd gen

lower 3 speakers work fine. Top left & right outer speakers very faint. Top center tweeter doesn’t seem to output at all. 
audio pcb board doesn’t seem to show anything with obvious damage. All visible capacitors seem fine. 
thoughts?

SO… My success 2 days ago inspired me to have another look at the two other dead units that I have.

I found a common problem to both of them, and got both working!

I had looked at everything in the high voltage section of the power supply, and couldn’t find any bad components.  Despite this, the devices were both not working, and on closer inspection were resetting about once every 5 seconds… There was power ramping up, and just as it hit 20V in the driver power to the IC, it would fall back to 10V or so and start over. This is a problem that others have had on this forum (and in this thread).

I looked at the datasheet for the PWM (ICE2QS02G), and realized that I had not checked the feedback section of the circuit.  This is the bit on the ‘other side’ of the opto-isolator.  Most of this part of the circuit is buried in glue, but sure enough, when I checked the resistors there, both of my devices had bad resistors in the same spot!  The resistor in question is a very small surface mount, with the marking “68b”.  Looking in the EIA listings , this is a 4.99k resistor.  Both of my devices had open resistors.  I added 1/8 watt 4.7k resistors (I didn’t have 5k), and lo and behold both devices now work.

The lower value resistor did have the effect of making the device run at 13V/26V instead of 12V/24V.  I don’t see this as a problem, as there are several EH31 regulators on the board, and the only thing (I think) that would be driven directly by these voltages would be the actual audio amplifiers.  Those should be tolerant.

Bad resistor -- preventing boot
new resistor -- fixed boot issue and device works great now!

 

This was my problem too! Main caps, rectifier etc. were all good, but this resistor was open circuit. Put a 4k7 across it and the unit now works perfectly!

 

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Hi guys,can someone tell me, what part it is in the red circle (capacitor, resistor) and what readings it have to?

 

It is the wifi card of a Player 5; Gen1.

 

Hello I Have the similar problem of Anders J. (304DC ok, 240VAC ok etc...).

Anders do you have change this transistor on your last message ?

My Play 5 Gen 2 just died.  It’s not the normal fuse and thermistor.  Looks like it blew two resistors under the heatsink...has anyone seen this or replaced these?

 

 

 

 

For me, both mids and highs were also without function. I replaced all the capacitors, after that no more problems. 

Ahh if only it were that simple for me. While indeed the caps may be also an issue…..there are so many other blown components on the board 😌

How about buying a “for parts only” P5 as usually its the power supply that fails, and swap the amp board from that into this one?

Yep...that’s certainly an option…..I would just love the satisfaction of being able to repair it though. Its crappy that Sonos can’t provide component lists for discontinued products….even the circuit diagrams...really no reason 😌 

They are going to be in trouble with the European Unions ‘right to repair’ laws…..

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