Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips


Hi

Play:5, manufacturing date sometime around 2009, is completely dead. No light in LED.

Found several cases of this online, but no solutions.

Does anyone have any knowledge about the problem, og better yet, schematics..

I mainly suspect problem in switch mode power supply. Have only done very basic measuring, but I find 220VAC on primary side, no power on secondary side. I think about ordering a mosfet, and/or a diode I suspect, but if I had schematics I could do some more pinpointing..

146 replies

Thanks a lot Jine
I have a sonos5 first gen with a power supply issue and you're right, it was a problem of fuse and rectifier.
The rectifier was effectively hard to desolder. After replacement of both component my Sonos sings again !!
Thanks again to the community
JJH from France
Same issue here.
I'm looking into doing a repair in my workshop, not field service :)

I opened it and see it looks quite well built, except for the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese capacitors.
At least none of them are bulged though.

Let's keep each other updated here about any info we find.
Thank you all for the contributions. I have been able to repair my play 5 without technical training. The play 5 was completely dead. The parts as described for a few euros ordered at aliexpress and after 4 weeks of waiting I could work on de play 5. It was the most awkward thing without damaging anything, removing the rectifier. In the end, the play5 plays for a few euros and a few hours of patient and meticulous it works again.

It was a qualified guess that the chip was defect

i found a video online of repair of a Sonos zp100 

here he changed the usual suspects. One of was the small chip So I just did the same.  
 

kind regards Anders

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I have no idea, but can tell me somebody, what part it is,it is brocken. There is writtrn "2F8".

 

 

I found an old Play:5 board, and this was labelled 2fx on the one I found.  That also doesn’t come up, but if I had to guess, I’d say it is an NPN transistor BC850W.  That’s based on the ‘2f’ part of the code(s), and the fact that it’s an SOT-323 device.  https://www.s-manuals.com/smd/2f

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Ok I understand. So you mean that I could only use one capacitor with 2 or 3nf instead of the 2 SMD capacitors?

It’s always best to replace like for like.  However, if I didn’t have the parts or was in a hurry, I would just remove the 0.1nF capacitor, install a 2nF capacitor, and see if it works.  This circuitry is on the ‘high side’ of the power supply, and is just used to get the oscillator working.  The circuit will be quite tolerant of capacitor variation.

You asked about voltage for the capacitor.  The oscillator chip is rated for up to 27V, but it would probably be operating in the 15-20V range.  I don’t know if these capacitors are between GND and VCC or not, but if you pick a capacitor that is rated ~25V or higher you will be covered.

I would make one more point … why did these 3 components get smoked?  It seems like a strange part of the circuit to break in that way.  It is possible that you have another problem you haven’t found yet.  I would question if the oscillator itself is working or not, given it is very close to where you seem to have had a power problem.

 

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Hi,

I have a new problem with my play 5.

2 components were blown Q27507/Q27502.

2 components shorted, Q27509/27503.

I think the part numbers are 34N B1. What are these? Mosfet? Appreciate it if anyone can share the part numbers of that 4 components in yellow box. Thks!

 

On my board, all 4 of those components are the same, and are labelled DMB B8.  That is a DMP3098L (P-CHANNEL ENHANCEMENT MODE MOSFET  https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/405103/DIODES/DMP3098L.html?)

The really weird part though is that “34N” is a different device!  That’s an N-channel mosfet:  https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/ds31787.pdf

Good luck!

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Hi guys,can someone tell me, what part it is in the red circle (capacitor, resistor) and what readings it have to?

 

It is the wifi card of a Player 5; Gen1.

 

That’s a capacitor.  It looks like it is in series with the antenna.  I measured one(in circuit) and got readings that fluctuated a lot.  They were between 0.6nF and 3nF.

For a 2.4GHz wifi, a 1nF capacitor will act like a 0.066 ohm resistance, which feels correct to me.

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Wenn I connect the Box per LAN, i works all good. But after a Reset, the Box is flashing red. So I think, it couldn't be an bad chip. The Box do the Updates and everything, and after the connect per LAN, Iran pairing it per wifi in the setting.

That’s helpful.  It could be that the WIFI module is bad, if you can’t get it to connect over wifi.  (and I mean something bigger than just a bad antenna connection).  You can try to swap a wifi card from another sonos device and see if that helps.  The play:5, connect, and connect:Amp all use the same wifi module (stay away from the older ZP80s - they are not compatible).

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Although i can connect the Box after i paired the Box per LAN, i am able to switch the settings to wifi? It is passable to repair a wifi Module?

 

Sorry but I’ve never done it (or tried).

Hello, thanks for the picture.

I have-it fixed finally but I do not know the cause. Here it is in words and pictures:

First, small cap (C27854) is not charging from the AC side, those are probably discharge resistors to the remaining capacity in the filtering caps. It’s another mechanism I could not figure out. The C27854 is providing power to the ICE2QS02 driver chip. It goes thru all those small diodes and caps on the edge of the board. The normal behavior on the voltage for C27854 is that is charging up to around 20V slowly and then ( some of those diodes and transistors do that) turns on the power on the ICE2QS02. 

Once the chip is starting the voltage is self sustaining to around 13 V, I do not understand from where, maybe from the fly back transformer winding itself. 

So for me the challenge was to produce the charging of the C27854 up to 20 to start up the IC. I did this by putting 2 390Kohm from the + on the big caps. I monitor the voltage and it’s ramping up slow, like a second or two. After it reaches 20V the IC starts and it self sustain to 13V. It’s 3 days already and still works! meaning there is no other fail. There was no problem in the fuse or rectifier, nothing burned. As you can see the LED turns on with the 2 resistors soldered. This is the story of this fix.

The 2 390Kohm resistors from plus to C27854
Final resistors placement
Final result, The power led turns ON!

 

I have no power on pin 7 on ICE2QS02 and when i measure on C27854 it goes from 9 to 18 VDC in a 2-3 second loop, is this the same behaviour as you had?

i have the same problem, pin7 no power(0.1 or 0.5v), c27854 get loop vdc,have you fixed the problem by use putting 2 390Kohm from the + on the big caps?

 

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Hi there,

My sonos play 5 power board had some overvoltage and some parts are blown.

I managed to bring it back to life bij mounting a new PCB fuse3.15A and 2 capacitors 47K275V-X2

2 other components are broken and i cant determine what type they where.

Its about TH27700 at the inlet AC current side, i asume this is a NTC or PTC.

Also MOV27700 is broken, this should be a varistor after the first filter coils.

 

Does anyone know the partnumbers of these 2 components? You would realy help me out.

 

Thnx a lot!

The MOV27700 varistor is marked “TVR14471*”.  TH27700 is an NTC thermistor “SCK 054”.

Good luck!

 

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I just had a success fixing a dead play:5 so thought I’d share it.  The device would not boot up. When I measured the voltage driving the PWM chip, I found it was ramping slowly from 7-8V up to about 19V, then dropping back to 7-8V and repeating.  The frequency of this was about 3-4 seconds.

I found a 10 ohm resistor that was open (R27797).  I replaced it with another 10 ohm and the device now works.  I only had a much much larger wattage resistor, but it got the job done.  Images are attached.

I had some other dead boards with the exact same ramping of voltage.  Unfortunately when I checked them, none of them had the same failure.  Hopefully this can help someone else though!

R27797 replacement

 

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1. Fuse is close to mains connector. Red cylindrical one I'd say. Maybe it was 3.15AT??? Not sure.
Measure every component in series with line voltage if you're unsure which one is a fuse.

2. Rectifier on the mains voltage side. There is only one rectifier. Black with 4 feet..


Correct, check these components first, after that - also verify that the thermistor next to the power socket isn't faulty.

KBU606 is the rectifier, a bit hard to desolder - but possible.

3.15A is indeed the fuse (3.15a slow blow fuse) - https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1zU5QKVXXXXXcXXXXq6xXFXXXe/-100pcs-lot-382-T3-15A-Miniature-Slow-Blow-Radial-font-b-Fuse-b-font-T3.jpg

https://sc04.alicdn.com/kf/HTB13d3jJVXXXXcRXFXXq6xXFXXXi/6A-600V-diode-bridge-rectifier-KBU606-50pcs-lot.jpg

And as jlithen said - messure all other components on the HW-side aswell (capacitors, diods and similar).

Good luck!
And it worked! New rectifier and fuse, and the Dead:5 is now a Play:5 again...
Great article. My play 5 sings again. Thank you so much!
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Last resort is to add in a class D amp to it. Not ideal at all, but at least, sound is back.

 

Hi Jesper

 

How did you conclude that 2QS02G was defect? I have 1 of the capacitors 820uf 35V that are defect, so I will change them.

 

Br

Jesper

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What is the nature of the repair that you did? 

I have seen units that have one of the five audio amplification channels die. It is usually the bass that goes, if I recall correctly.  That's what it sounds like your problem may be.  There is no straightforward repair that I know of.

 

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Hi,

how much power needs play5? I found a power supply. If it is fits (physical and electrical) I will buy and install it. 

Size: 16 * 10 * 4cm

Can you tell me which pins should I connect  24 and 12 volt in play5 mainboard?

This one is at amazon.de 14€, I think it is fair price.

 

That power supply looks like it should work.  I don’t know what the maximum rated power of the Play:5 is, but that one looks like 70 Watts… For me that’s more than enough volume.

As far as connections… There is a triple inductor between the power supply and the downstream electronics.  The purpose of that inductor is to filter noise.  You could hook up to either side of the inductor (since your power supply will have filtering in it), but I would hook up to the inductor on the power supply side.  This way, the outputs from your supply will pass through the inductor and be filtered.  I’ve annotated the 12V, GND, and 24V in the attached image.

There is a small chance that the problem with the power supply circuit will prevent just adding power to the board.  In this case, you would need to separate the built-in power supply from the downstream components.  I would do that by just removing the inductor (desolder it, or cut the legs of it off and remove it).  If you do this, then you will need to connect to the three connection points directly above the ones that I marked (the order is the same as I labelled).

Good luck!

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E48 9558 or something like this.

 

It is blurred, so i cannot read ut as well.

 

Can someone help me and can tell me, what part it is?

It looks to me like it is “E43” and 955B or maybe 95513… that last bit doesn’t really seem to be a B or a 13, but it looks even less like an 8 to me.

Having said that, I’d be a bit surprised to find a 170 volt zener diode in this circuit…

 

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Hi,

I have a new problem with my play 5.

2 components were blown Q27507/Q27502.

2 components shorted, Q27509/27503.

I think the part numbers are 34N B1. What are these? Mosfet? Appreciate it if anyone can share the part numbers of that 4 components in yellow box. Thks!!

 

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And can someone tell me, what size of smd resistors they are, I can't measure up this size

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Hi guys,

 

can someone tell me, what parts are the following and what I need to replace?

 

R27817

C27852

C27855

 

They are burned.

100ohm

0.1nF(maybe)

2.9nF(maybe)

So what does it mean "maybe"? Can't I measure up an SMD capacitor or what?

For what it’s worth, I tried measuring these in circuit with my Fluke 87V.  I got 0 for C27852, and 2.0nF for C27855.  I imagine that the 0nF reading is due to the measurement being done in circuit.

Anything with this low a capacitance is going to be a filter cap, and I’m pretty sure you can just go with a low value (or maybe even no capacitor) and it would be fine.  I had a look at the eval board application note, and I don’t even see these caps in that circuit diagram https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Infineon-ApplicationNote_EvaluationBoard_80W_SMPS_QR_PWM_Controller_ICE2QS02G%20-AN-v01_00-EN.pdf?fileId=db3a30431a5c32f2011abefae1533bcd

 

Hi there,

I have the same problems (sorry for my bad english). One of the 120K smd resistors was defect, i place a new one but nothing happens.

On the 2 big elcos i measure 319 vdc but the little one of100uF is charging up to 19v en then back to 5v and thats repeating. When i measure with my scope i see the elco is charge and then recharge. I also replaced the 8p ic on the prim side. I checked al the components on the primair side but nothings wrong??

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