The amp has no power. Is there an internal fuse for this unit?
Has anyone taken one apart?
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A slight update... the choke filter in the upper left corner of that picture (the big one) has 4 wires. I think I have detected a short on it or something connected to it... between the primary and secondary, I get continuity with a resistance of 148 ohms. Could that be that the inductor has a short? Keep in mind it was DMM tested on board and I have not removed it.
The resistor that blows comes off the primary... so there seems to be a relation.
The resistor that blows comes off the primary... so there seems to be a relation.
I pulled the inductor and its good.... so thats not it...
Figured this would be a good thread to piggyback onto.
Anyone have a zp120 parts unit they want to sell?
I have a unit with a bad top board (must have gotten hit from lightening on the ethernet.)
Almost every component I pull is shorted.
I do have a good power/amp board if I cant find a controller/wifi board to marry it.
Thanks,
jason
Anyone have a zp120 parts unit they want to sell?
I have a unit with a bad top board (must have gotten hit from lightening on the ethernet.)
Almost every component I pull is shorted.
I do have a good power/amp board if I cant find a controller/wifi board to marry it.
Thanks,
jason
Great work documenting your troubleshooting and thought process. We will get good at this some day, maybe Sonos will hire us?? LOL JK
So the inductor in the upper left of your picture is the common mode inductor that is in series with the 28V supply.
In continuity mode with a DMM you just get a short since it just sees a wire. I once removed that inductor (it was a real pain getting all 4 wires back in) in an attempt to find out if my short was in the rectifier (2 diode packs clipped to the chassis) or the load. For me it was the load. One of my amp ICs was a short. That is the unit I am working currently. I will share a troubleshooting slide on the 28V supply when I get it working reliably.
So the inductor in the upper left of your picture is the common mode inductor that is in series with the 28V supply.
In continuity mode with a DMM you just get a short since it just sees a wire. I once removed that inductor (it was a real pain getting all 4 wires back in) in an attempt to find out if my short was in the rectifier (2 diode packs clipped to the chassis) or the load. For me it was the load. One of my amp ICs was a short. That is the unit I am working currently. I will share a troubleshooting slide on the 28V supply when I get it working reliably.
I've got an Connect:Amp that I bought for parts and trying to repair. 10 Ohm resistor totally burned up and charged the board. Replaced that, the fuse, the PWM and a cap that was puffing at the top. I've got voltage on the PWM but nothing on the secondary side at all. I've pulled D16016 and it gives me continuity in both directions so first this is to replace that. Does anyone know the specs on this diode? 15V, 3A? What about the package type? Just need to order some from digikey.
Also, my CPU_GND and 36V GND test points are not buzzing out as shorted. Does this indicate there are other components blown on that side of the transformer? I get no voltages on that side of the transformer BUT I am using a crappy craftsman DMM that probably doesn't work for reading the fast switching voltages on this board.
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Dan
Also, my CPU_GND and 36V GND test points are not buzzing out as shorted. Does this indicate there are other components blown on that side of the transformer? I get no voltages on that side of the transformer BUT I am using a crappy craftsman DMM that probably doesn't work for reading the fast switching voltages on this board.
Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks,
Dan
I actually don’t know why the donor device stopped working. One day it was just dead, no power/flashing light on reboot.
I don’t know that the donor board is good. But it seems odd that after replacing it into another ZP, which prior to the swap would just flash white mindlessly forever, now appears on the network and does everything up to tuning a stream, it just won’t play it out.
As I mentioned, the device shows up on my app, I can communicate with it via the app (mute/unmute, turn the indicators on/off, rename, select streams, etc.). It just fails to connect to the stream & play anything out. I get the same results if I try to play something from my local music library.
Also of note, if I go to Sonos.com & select “my system” it shows up there as well as “Online”. So I think connectivity is ok. What I’m wondering is does the ZP “engage” something else when it gets ready to play out? Does it for instance try to crank up the amp at that point, and if that fails for some reason is this the type of message I would get?
@gruv2ths thanks for jumping in! Yes... removal of that inductor was easy... putting it back wasn't. I had to get creative and solder wire patches to get it through the hole so I could solder the leads back... took quite a while.
The dim light is indeed bright. The TO-220 package (center of my photo on the heat sink) PWM gets warm for sure. I'm guessing the short is somewhere in that area. Just need to get that piece off but I dread it since it has a lot of solder points and the heath sink. I was dreading pulling that component.
Not sure how to test a PWM... I'm guessing that will take a breadboard.
Finding this short is not easy!
The dim light is indeed bright. The TO-220 package (center of my photo on the heat sink) PWM gets warm for sure. I'm guessing the short is somewhere in that area. Just need to get that piece off but I dread it since it has a lot of solder points and the heath sink. I was dreading pulling that component.
Not sure how to test a PWM... I'm guessing that will take a breadboard.
Finding this short is not easy!
I have a Connect that forgets its configuration. It worked on ethernet but when it was moved to a location that required wifi, it just wouldn't stay connected. After that, it wouldn't stay configured on ethernet either. Sonos made a ridiculous repair offer. For another $60 I could buy a new one. Anyway, does this sound like a logic board problem? I'm thinking on buying a parts unit to see if I can get it working. Any thoughts?
Philip
Philip
The 2 RTN points on the transformer are showing 0L. I tried to short those too, but got nothing. Actually I am getting no power on the secondary winding (testing 1 and 2 for 3.3V and 3 and for for 8.4 volts, and 3 and 5 for 15v). They show nothing using a 60W bulb. Trying a150W bulb... more or less the same. I get some voltage on the primary (like 10v), but nothing on the secondary.
The PWM is warm so its the likeliest suspect at this stage. The PWM is HOT with the 150W bulb.
The PWM is warm so its the likeliest suspect at this stage. The PWM is HOT with the 150W bulb.
Your assumption seems correct. The PWM is not switching therefore no secondary voltages will show up. I would unsolder that PWM and watch the bulb go out!
If it’s too hard to get the PWM out in one piece, cut the leads and unsolder them one by one.
If it’s too hard to get the PWM out in one piece, cut the leads and unsolder them one by one.
I removed the TO-220 PWM - and wouldn't you know... the bulb goes dim. 🙂 The part shows 30 ohms of continuity from pin 1 (GND) to pin 3 (Vcc) and 32 ohms from GND to pin 4 (FB). The continuity is in both directions. Based on the schematic, this part looks blown to me.
I think we may have found the culprit. Now I just need to find a replacement. It is a 5M0265R Fairchild. Looks like the replacement is a KA5M0265R.
I think we may have found the culprit. Now I just need to find a replacement. It is a 5M0265R Fairchild. Looks like the replacement is a KA5M0265R.
Nobody carries some of these parts in the US, so I need a long wait from China (yes not Mouser or Digikey - seems to be special order). In the mean time I decided to probe around and have a small concern. The datasheet on the KA5M0265R states that the max VCC on this is about 30V. My testing on pin 1 (GND) and pin 3 (VCC) on the Sonos board for where the KA5M0265R goes shows 44V. So I am wondering if that is what may be blowing that? @gruv2ths, when you have a chance, can you post what VCC you get at pins 1 and 3 so I have a comparison?
I am reading 13V across pins 3 and 1. That is with the dim bulb installed so it is probably a little bit higher.
Is that with or without the PWM attached? Im wondering with the PWM attached, it may pull some of that voltage down. I am currently waiting on that PWM from China.
Yes that is with the PWM installed.
Cool... yeah, mine is with it removed. I'm reading 44V at 1 and 3 with a dim bulb as well. I bought a pack of 10 of the PWMs from China, so I have room in case of failure. I'm really hoping this is the bad component since my bulb is full dim after the caps charges and this PWM is removed. I'll post when I get them and try it out.
Hey everybody! It’s been a while.
I just found something that is contrary to something i have said over and over in these forums. I have a AMP (1st gen version) that had the 36V transformer winding return shorted to the 5V winding return. I shorted them like i suggested in many posts in this thread.
The amp functions fine.
What i noticed was that in the time delta between the 36V coming on and the sound starting there was quite a bit of noise. Normally i use these things in noisy environments and i don’t hear that noise at all. But now in my quite home office that noise really bugs me. I removed the short and not only does the unit still function, but the noise is gone.
I am not sure how this thing works without the 36V and the low voltage biases returns tied together, but it does on mine.
Just my 2 cents.
Man how much does recycle mode suck?!?! LOL
'Bob is your Uncle!" Greatness.
Happy for you! Congrats!
Happy for you! Congrats!
Hi Im not tech enough to open and start fixing mine.
Could there be anyone that could fix mine?
Ive talked to Sonos, but no help there. It online and apparently “working” but no sound.
Cables and speakers working fine.
PM me - maybe I can help.
Working with Sonos tech support right now, but so far it’s been, “is it on? Move it to WiFi...connect it directly to the router...etc. so not hopeful for a solution from them at this point.
In the meantime, are there test points where I can check for this 36VDC and/or other voltages to see if my amp section is at least attempting to engage when I hit play?
Hi All,
I just purchased a CONNECT: AMP from eBay. The auction description says it does not power on and I am hoping to use this thread to troubleshoot and fix it.
@m0untainman and @gruv2ths: Can you tell me where you purchased your part from?
Thanks,
Andy
I just purchased a CONNECT: AMP from eBay. The auction description says it does not power on and I am hoping to use this thread to troubleshoot and fix it.
@m0untainman and @gruv2ths: Can you tell me where you purchased your part from?
Thanks,
Andy
Tough question. There is no go-to source. Some of the choices that Sonos has made are exotic, like the integrated PWM they use for the bias converter. They use a non-integrated pwm for the amp power supply, also not available from Mouser and the like. You can always get stuff from China via eBay for example.
@m0untainman and @gruv2ths: Thank you both. I will be opening the unit when it arrives and will update this thread once I do.
Andy
Andy
Ando, did you get the ZP120 on eBay this weekend that went for $50 ish? If so smokin' deal!
No but I saw that one after it ended. That was a good deal! I got a newer CONNECT AMP for $150. Hope it will be an easy fix!
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