The amp has no power. Is there an internal fuse for this unit?
Has anyone taken one apart?
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Hmmm.. This is a new one for me.
Does the AMP work at high volumes, even though the clicking exists?
Can you take a video with your phone and upload to YouTube so I can hear it?
So a couple of things:
Have you tried removing and re-seating the riser card?
Have you tried using your riser card as opposed to the one that i shipped with the power board?
Does your phone app indicate that there is a firmware update available for any of your system?
Does the AMP work at high volumes, even though the clicking exists?
Can you take a video with your phone and upload to YouTube so I can hear it?
So a couple of things:
Have you tried removing and re-seating the riser card?
Have you tried using your riser card as opposed to the one that i shipped with the power board?
Does your phone app indicate that there is a firmware update available for any of your system?
To clarify my previous post. The presence of noise is more consistent than I thought. When either the amp is muted and/or the music is paused, the noise disappears after several minutes and the amp is absolutely silent. Otherwise the noise exists. I have the amp hard wired by Ethernet cable to my Bridge which in turn is hard wired to my router.
Hi gruv2ths,
I received the power board today. I added my logic board, misc. screws and cover, etc. The amp performed fine with one notable exception. There is noise on both channels. In addition to the general noise, there is a clicking at a speed of exactly two clicks per second. The noise exists whether the amp is muted or not. However, after removing a music signal the noise disappears after several minutes (I assume the amp turns itself off in this case because I don't even here the base amp noise). The noise is much more than the amplifier noise floor. The noise exists when the amp is the only product on my SonosNet. However, when I add my Play 5 the noise becomes noticeably louder. The noise also spikes a bit when I adjust the slider volume via my controller. Any idea what the issue could be?
I received the power board today. I added my logic board, misc. screws and cover, etc. The amp performed fine with one notable exception. There is noise on both channels. In addition to the general noise, there is a clicking at a speed of exactly two clicks per second. The noise exists whether the amp is muted or not. However, after removing a music signal the noise disappears after several minutes (I assume the amp turns itself off in this case because I don't even here the base amp noise). The noise is much more than the amplifier noise floor. The noise exists when the amp is the only product on my SonosNet. However, when I add my Play 5 the noise becomes noticeably louder. The noise also spikes a bit when I adjust the slider volume via my controller. Any idea what the issue could be?
In looking at those two points on the circuit board (where the capacitor blew), I was measuring 278VDC. SO, I guessing that the capacitor was just a filter, I installed the largest capacitor I had that fit the space. I used two 250V 1000pF in series (so 500V 500pF equivalent). I also replaced the fuse with a 5A 250V one.
After this, I had the exact same problems when I booted it up with the 32W dim bulb. It would boot fine, but as soon as I played any music I got the white/orange flashing, and the volume would reset to about 15%.
I was able to see that the 36V test point would jump up to 36VDC then gradually drop to 15VDC over about 2-3 seconds. The fault would come on right as it dropped below about 20VDC. The 278VDC would also drop... to something well below 100VDC. I surmised that my 32W bulb just wasn't passing enough juice, so I removed it. Then the 278VDC rose to 305VDC, and all my problems disappeared. It's rock solid now, and I'm quite a happy camper.
I was even able to effect the entire repair without removing any of the circuit boards. 🙂 Thanks gruv2ths!
Now, on to the ZP100 that's been failing. That one has a bad channel. It either doesn't play from the left channel with no fault, or it throws a fault (white/orange flashing).
After this, I had the exact same problems when I booted it up with the 32W dim bulb. It would boot fine, but as soon as I played any music I got the white/orange flashing, and the volume would reset to about 15%.
I was able to see that the 36V test point would jump up to 36VDC then gradually drop to 15VDC over about 2-3 seconds. The fault would come on right as it dropped below about 20VDC. The 278VDC would also drop... to something well below 100VDC. I surmised that my 32W bulb just wasn't passing enough juice, so I removed it. Then the 278VDC rose to 305VDC, and all my problems disappeared. It's rock solid now, and I'm quite a happy camper.
I was even able to effect the entire repair without removing any of the circuit boards. 🙂 Thanks gruv2ths!
Now, on to the ZP100 that's been failing. That one has a bad channel. It either doesn't play from the left channel with no fault, or it throws a fault (white/orange flashing).
timc995, see below, its a ceramic cap. No idea the PN or parameters. Looks like it is just before or in parallel with the common core inductor. Your primary side voltages may be a little different due to the bulb, it is making a voltage divider with the unit, the thing to watch is the secondary side DC voltages.
This goes for everybody troubleshooting their Sonos Amps, make sure your CPU_GND test point is shorted to the GND36 test point. In the attached picture, you will see a small yellow jumper on the bias converter transformer secondary. That jumper is makes sure the returns are connected together. They need to be.
If they are not, the 3.3V and the 8.5/15V outputs won't be grounded together which meas lots of confusion for the processor.
I think what we are seeing here with most or all of the no power fails on the Connect:AMP is the AMPs inability to handle power surges. There is no active circuit on the front end of the power supply to handle surges. The passive filter does the best it can, which sometimes is not good enough. And since every surge is different the failures are all different. I have not seen the cap you show in the picture blown before.
This goes for everybody troubleshooting their Sonos Amps, make sure your CPU_GND test point is shorted to the GND36 test point. In the attached picture, you will see a small yellow jumper on the bias converter transformer secondary. That jumper is makes sure the returns are connected together. They need to be.
If they are not, the 3.3V and the 8.5/15V outputs won't be grounded together which meas lots of confusion for the processor.
I think what we are seeing here with most or all of the no power fails on the Connect:AMP is the AMPs inability to handle power surges. There is no active circuit on the front end of the power supply to handle surges. The passive filter does the best it can, which sometimes is not good enough. And since every surge is different the failures are all different. I have not seen the cap you show in the picture blown before.
I opened up a non-functioning ZP120. The image shows what I found (it looks like a damaged capacitor to me). This is located just downstream of the rectifier. I looked at other images in this thread, and (while it's hard to tell), none of them seem to show a capacitor in this location -- I wonder if this was somehow dislodged from elsewhere and landed in the right place to blow the fuse?? In any event, as soon as I touched it, it dislodged from the circuit board.
In any event, I bridged the blown fuse with a 32W bulb, and the device booted up just fine (the bulb goes bright and then dims as the capacitors charge up). I get voltages on the board, although they differ slightly from the ones that gruv2ths documented.
As soon as I try to play anything I get the white-off-orange-off cycling lights. The sonos app shows the music is playing, but the volume gets reset to about 15% a few seconds after I increase it.
Coincidentally, I have another connect that has the exact same symptoms (I don't recall if it is a ZP120 or ZP100). The behaviour is the same, and I get a low level of volume on the RCA jacks from it. I have not attempted to open that one up yet.
I'm eager to get these working, and am fairly competent with electronics. I have meters and an oscilloscope and am looking for help to troubleshoot this, if anyone is able to offer help on what to look for.
In any event, I bridged the blown fuse with a 32W bulb, and the device booted up just fine (the bulb goes bright and then dims as the capacitors charge up). I get voltages on the board, although they differ slightly from the ones that gruv2ths documented.
As soon as I try to play anything I get the white-off-orange-off cycling lights. The sonos app shows the music is playing, but the volume gets reset to about 15% a few seconds after I increase it.
Coincidentally, I have another connect that has the exact same symptoms (I don't recall if it is a ZP120 or ZP100). The behaviour is the same, and I get a low level of volume on the RCA jacks from it. I have not attempted to open that one up yet.
I'm eager to get these working, and am fairly competent with electronics. I have meters and an oscilloscope and am looking for help to troubleshoot this, if anyone is able to offer help on what to look for.
Also check the resistance of the pads for the collector emitter on the PCB.
No need to test both sides at the same time. In fact don't. I noticed that I had typos. Sorry
Just check one side at a time. LED side in diode mode, positive probe to the anode, negative probe to the cathode. Should be approximately 1V. Reversing the probes should be a open. On the output side of the opto, in continuity mode, positive probe to collector and negative to emitter, then reverse the probes and do the same.
You should get relatively high resistance (>1k ohm) in both directions. If both tests look good, then we have a good opto and the PWM is bad.
Just check one side at a time. LED side in diode mode, positive probe to the anode, negative probe to the cathode. Should be approximately 1V. Reversing the probes should be a open. On the output side of the opto, in continuity mode, positive probe to collector and negative to emitter, then reverse the probes and do the same.
You should get relatively high resistance (>1k ohm) in both directions. If both tests look good, then we have a good opto and the PWM is bad.
I tested the opto not sure if i did it right I used two DMs and connected them at the same time, there was no continuity at all when tested in diode mode on pins 3and 4 either way.
The opto may be toasty.
The opto is the 4 pin ic that crosses the white boundary of isolation. The LED aside should read about a volt or so in slide mode, the bjt side should read a open. Do this testing with no power applied. I am pretty sure it’s the part circled in yellow. Pull the datasheet.
The opto is the 4 pin ic that crosses the white boundary of isolation. The LED aside should read about a volt or so in slide mode, the bjt side should read a open. Do this testing with no power applied. I am pretty sure it’s the part circled in yellow. Pull the datasheet.
I checked VPRI and VMID and im getting 150v and 300v on them, I checked the voltage on the pwm and im getitng voltage 326v on the drain and 13v on vcc and 0.5 on fb. Im not getting the 15.4 and the 8.4 on the secondary side any ideas?
Well d16010 would not make it not work at all. It is the rectifier for the 15V rail I believe. If you haven't confirmed, I would check Vpri and Vmid with reference to Pgnd. If you are getting around 150V and 300V you are good, I would also pull the datasheet for the PWM U16002 (KA5M0265R ) and and make sure that you are getting the Drain voltage and primary ground on the input pins. If you are getting them both, you outta replace the PWM.
Hi,
Ive checked the transformer seems ok no open windings, is there any other checks i can do on tranformer before putting it back, also a diode d16010 reads open but when removed its ok i removed the resistor next to it and it no longer shows open, the resistance value shows fine on the DM it does show completely open in diode open is that correct.
Ive checked the transformer seems ok no open windings, is there any other checks i can do on tranformer before putting it back, also a diode d16010 reads open but when removed its ok i removed the resistor next to it and it no longer shows open, the resistance value shows fine on the DM it does show completely open in diode open is that correct.
D16016 Cathode connects on a inner layer to the junction between C16034 and D16015. Just ohm it out, its prob fine.
That is the primary side snubber. I would also check to make sure all 3 of the diodes in that area are all ok. I have had shorts there.
Did you find something blown open on the transformer? That mark on the top side suggests an open where the pin meets the magnetic wire.
That is the primary side snubber. I would also check to make sure all 3 of the diodes in that area are all ok. I have had shorts there.
Did you find something blown open on the transformer? That mark on the top side suggests an open where the pin meets the magnetic wire.
Hi,
Ive removed the tranformer with great difficulty one of the copper pads lifted but should be ok, I also changed the resistor aswell, the only thing im uncertain of where it is burnt I cant find the trace for where that pin connects to on the board(directly above D16016) I cant see any trace or cant find hear any beep to which component its in series with.
Ive removed the tranformer with great difficulty one of the copper pads lifted but should be ok, I also changed the resistor aswell, the only thing im uncertain of where it is burnt I cant find the trace for where that pin connects to on the board(directly above D16016) I cant see any trace or cant find hear any beep to which component its in series with.
Also do you see 300ish volts on one pin of the transformer and neutral on another, both on the primary side?
There is also a 100 or 10 ohm 2W-ish axel leaded resistor in series with the primary, make sure that is not open.
There is also a 100 or 10 ohm 2W-ish axel leaded resistor in series with the primary, make sure that is not open.
Sounds like you have a open winding. Take off the transformer, you will probably see a burn mark where it came open.
Hi guys,
Im in need of help with my zp120 ive been following this forum, built a dim bulb tester, found a short replaced the bridge rectifier and fuse, also found a small burn mark under the tranformer one of the copper wires came off so soldered it back into place, still no power, im getting no voltage on the secondary side.
Im in need of help with my zp120 ive been following this forum, built a dim bulb tester, found a short replaced the bridge rectifier and fuse, also found a small burn mark under the tranformer one of the copper wires came off so soldered it back into place, still no power, im getting no voltage on the secondary side.
Hey old friend!
It was one Hail Mary after another.
I noticed that when it was failing the preamp chip was never being un-muted. I followed the mute line from the pre-amp chip up through the riser card to that driver chip on the logic card. I pulled the datasheet and found that that pin was an output and its output was stuck at 100 ohms or something like that. The other outputs on that chip were fairly high resistance. Learned a lot, many months of four letter words though. Lol
It was one Hail Mary after another.
I noticed that when it was failing the preamp chip was never being un-muted. I followed the mute line from the pre-amp chip up through the riser card to that driver chip on the logic card. I pulled the datasheet and found that that pin was an output and its output was stuck at 100 ohms or something like that. The other outputs on that chip were fairly high resistance. Learned a lot, many months of four letter words though. Lol
@gruv2ths Ahhh you finally fixed that! How did you determine that IC was bad? Thats a tough nut to find is bad!
Hey Toden,
You probably have this fixed already, but if not the 74VLC06AD on mine was bad. You can download the datasheet and buy them from the link below. From the datasheet look at the pinouts and measure the outputs to ground and see if any are low resistance like 100 ohms or so. One of mine was, and that fixed my problem.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nexperia/74LVC06AD118?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kDE4J8KCiPsFeMuB44hEVa8%3d
To anybody else, I have a repaired power board for sale on ebay. Let me know if you have trouble finding it.
You probably have this fixed already, but if not the 74VLC06AD on mine was bad. You can download the datasheet and buy them from the link below. From the datasheet look at the pinouts and measure the outputs to ground and see if any are low resistance like 100 ohms or so. One of mine was, and that fixed my problem.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nexperia/74LVC06AD118?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kDE4J8KCiPsFeMuB44hEVa8%3d
To anybody else, I have a repaired power board for sale on ebay. Let me know if you have trouble finding it.
gruv2ths,
you wrote about a bad driver ic on the logic board, you succesfully have replaced.
just to be sure, witch card is the logic board. the one with ethernet or the one rising from the powerboard.
i have read this thread several times to figure out voltages and troubleshooting, and i think i got all the voltages right.
it sounds like i have the same problem you descibes.
it has been very interesting reading.
just need to get over the final bumb. i have to say i am noob at electronics. i am a electrician, so i hope i have a little understanding.
you wrote about a bad driver ic on the logic board, you succesfully have replaced.
just to be sure, witch card is the logic board. the one with ethernet or the one rising from the powerboard.
i have read this thread several times to figure out voltages and troubleshooting, and i think i got all the voltages right.
it sounds like i have the same problem you descibes.
it has been very interesting reading.
just need to get over the final bumb. i have to say i am noob at electronics. i am a electrician, so i hope i have a little understanding.
you wrote about a bad driver ic on the logic board, you succesfully have replaced.
just to be sure, witch card is the logic board. the one with ethernet or the one rising from the powerboard
just to be sure, witch card is the logic board. the one with ethernet or the one rising from the powerboard
Which IC?
gruv2ths,
do you have more info about that ic, model, pictures, where to buy
do you have more info about that ic, model, pictures, where to buy
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