Repair ZP120



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Also do you see 300ish volts on one pin of the transformer and neutral on another, both on the primary side?
There is also a 100 or 10 ohm 2W-ish axel leaded resistor in series with the primary, make sure that is not open.
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Sounds like you have a open winding. Take off the transformer, you will probably see a burn mark where it came open.
Hi guys,
Im in need of help with my zp120 ive been following this forum, built a dim bulb tester, found a short replaced the bridge rectifier and fuse, also found a small burn mark under the tranformer one of the copper wires came off so soldered it back into place, still no power, im getting no voltage on the secondary side.
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Hey old friend!
It was one Hail Mary after another.
I noticed that when it was failing the preamp chip was never being un-muted. I followed the mute line from the pre-amp chip up through the riser card to that driver chip on the logic card. I pulled the datasheet and found that that pin was an output and its output was stuck at 100 ohms or something like that. The other outputs on that chip were fairly high resistance. Learned a lot, many months of four letter words though. Lol
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@gruv2ths Ahhh you finally fixed that! How did you determine that IC was bad? Thats a tough nut to find is bad!
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Hey Toden,
You probably have this fixed already, but if not the 74VLC06AD on mine was bad. You can download the datasheet and buy them from the link below. From the datasheet look at the pinouts and measure the outputs to ground and see if any are low resistance like 100 ohms or so. One of mine was, and that fixed my problem.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nexperia/74LVC06AD118?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kDE4J8KCiPsFeMuB44hEVa8%3d

To anybody else, I have a repaired power board for sale on ebay. Let me know if you have trouble finding it.
gruv2ths,

you wrote about a bad driver ic on the logic board, you succesfully have replaced.
just to be sure, witch card is the logic board. the one with ethernet or the one rising from the powerboard.

i have read this thread several times to figure out voltages and troubleshooting, and i think i got all the voltages right.
it sounds like i have the same problem you descibes.
it has been very interesting reading.
just need to get over the final bumb. i have to say i am noob at electronics. i am a electrician, so i hope i have a little understanding.
you wrote about a bad driver ic on the logic board, you succesfully have replaced.
just to be sure, witch card is the logic board. the one with ethernet or the one rising from the powerboard
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Which IC?
gruv2ths,
do you have more info about that ic, model, pictures, where to buy
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I have for sale, 3 Connect:Amp power boards with chassis and bottoms (wifi antennas and white plastic pan) that are tested with a known good logic board. I can send you videos of them working with a pair of JBL towers.
You just drop in your logic card and your in business.
Message me at gruv2ths@gmsil.com if your interested.
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@brumster, yes those are thermistors part# SCK-054. Also hard to find here in the US.. I’ve found those on AliExpress as well. Any chance you have a part number or a alt part for the large 1000uF storage caps on the front end? Thanks!
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Toden,
The flashing orange on mine was due to a bad driver IC on the logic card. It is a 14 or so pin IC.
Mine would flash orange and white when i push play, the app keeps playing like nothing is wrong yet no sound from the amp.
Blinking orange and white is fault mode. The Amp is either too hot, or there is a short. Make sure there is adequate ventilation and check that the wiring is not frayed or sticking out, causing a short.
Really great documentation here, well done!
Couple of observations.
-if you are getting the 3.3,8ish,15 on the secondary then the bias converter PWM is working correctly.
-The reason you are seeing 0V on the transformers pins is because you are looking at AC with your meter set to DC. Those biases measured in the logic card say to me that the bias converter is running and the output is making its way to the logic card. Good sign
-I can only think of one thing left to do, and that is measure the output of the buck converter on the bottom of the logic card. There is a inductor with a (normally) yellow electrolytic cap. Solder a wire to the striped side of the cap and put the card back in and plug in. You can put the red lead on the wire and the black one to chassis. Should have 1.5V output.

Do you know much about reading serial (UART) from a computer? You may have noticed a 4 pin header under the EMI shield that you removed. There may be some diagnostic clues coming out of that serial headder.

The one I am working currently has a confirmed good power and riser boards and shows up in the Sonos app but when you push play I get orange and white blinking leds. Wanting to read that header and see if it can give me a clue as to why mine shizes the bed when I push play.


i have 4 amps, that goes flashing orange and white when play is pressed. have you got any luck on that issue???
Hello.
I have almost the same problem as runecal. i have 6 amps that have gotten overvoltage. i have changed the 2 large caps. and a little thermistor and the fuse.
i bootes up and is connected to network, but when i tries to play music, it turns to blinking orange.
any idea???
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Hi
I hope there is someone who can help me.
I have a ZP120 that flashes orange and white.
It will not play music, but if I hold the mute button for a few seconds, I can make it light dimmed white and I can play music.
But only for 2-3 minutes, then it pauses again and starts blinking orange and white again.
I have had it apart and there was a little corrosion on the print card, I have cleaned the corrosion and I could not see that something was wrong with the print.
Does anyone have an idea of what it can be?
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Thanks again. Appreciate the help!
@brumster, yes those are thermistors part# SCK-054. Also hard to find here in the US.. I’ve found those on AliExpress as well.
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Thanks @noguruhere! Appreciate the response. I don't suppose you know what the green ones are to the right hand side of the right storage cap do you? The ones between the bridge rectifier and the grey resistor show in the first image I posted? Thanks again!!
They are varistors. Part# TVR14241. So far, the only place I found them were on AliExpress. Your amp will work without them but I wouldn’t operate it for too long as they are there for protection.
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All, great thread running here.

I'm wondering if I can drop a question in here rather than starting a new thread? Does anyone have a view on the various ceramic caps in the zp120? In particular would anyone know what I would need to replace the two large yellow ceramic caps that are located between the two storage caps with? they appear to be labelled D16033 and D16034. Thanks for any help you can provide.
My sonos ZP120 got wet with soft drinks by accident, I'm in the process of soaking in all these information. I shall try to fix it myself fingers crossed. Thank you very much everyone for creating this forum.
Is there anyone here that is willing to repair a ZP100 or ZP120. I am on my 2nd iteration of each of these. One was replaced out of warranty by sonos (thanks), the other not. I know the end is nigh. Thanks
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@benbendog, Congrats... "Bob is your uncle"

Always good to hear when someone fixes it, because Sonos won't 🙂 Nice work.

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