Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips
Play:5, manufacturing date sometime around 2009, is completely dead. No light in LED.
Found several cases of this online, but no solutions.
Does anyone have any knowledge about the problem, og better yet, schematics..
I mainly suspect problem in switch mode power supply. Have only done very basic measuring, but I find 220VAC on primary side, no power on secondary side. I think about ordering a mosfet, and/or a diode I suspect, but if I had schematics I could do some more pinpointing..
Hello,
Maybe someone here can help me With my problem With my Play 5.
I have Some exploded smd capacitors/resistors/transistors on my board.
Might someone know the values of the following components:
C27852/C27855/D27714.
I found a helpful picture on this forum to know what the resistor values are.
Hoping someone can help me.
Thanks in advance.
CNS
For what it’s worth, my pin1/3 on secondary side are also shorted. So either we both have the same problem or it’s supposed to be that way!
Hi all
I have been making some fault analysis at my own Play:5. Unfortunately the rectifier bridge and fuse is ok. The MOSFET driver at primary side is at least not shorted.
However the driver (FET, or BJT) at the secondary side is shorted between pin1 and pin3.
However I cannot figure out the tyoe, so it’s a little difficult. However a short circuit between legs is normally not something good ;-)
Or could I be tricked by the fact that the transformer might be connect to pin1 and pin3, so there is a DC short between pin1 and pin3 ?
Hi jpotts
It sounds as though the SMPS is trying to start-up, and then it shuts down again, and runds in this cycle. Maybe the control loop is broken
Have you tried to measure if there is any reponse at the optocoupler ? It’s located in the bottom right. Just to the right of the transformer. It’s a SHARP PC817..
Hi there,
I have the same problems (sorry for my bad english). One of the 120K smd resistors was defect, i place a new one but nothing happens.
On the 2 big elcos i measure 319 vdc but the little one of100uF is charging up to 19v en then back to 5v and thats repeating. When i measure with my scope i see the elco is charge and then recharge. I also replaced the 8p ic on the prim side. I checked al the components on the primair side but nothings wrong??
Im going to piggyback onto this discussion to see if someone can help me out.
I have a Power supply issue with an issue on the switching side.
The unit has no power.
Replaced most of the power side caps, rectifier, fuse, FET IC Driver, FET, (Also smt 120K resistor near the rectifier was blown.)
I feel like im close, but I have this problem where the voltage starts at 5v ramps up to 15v and then bumps back down to 5v to repeat the process. Thought maybe a diode, but I cant find it.
When i remove the little 25v 100uf Cap between the two big filtering caps, the fluctuation goes away. Still get no power though.
Any Thoughts?
I’m trying to repair my Sonos play-5 gen-1. It has a problem that others have discussed but I’ve found no posts describing a repair. I have spoken with Sonos support and they confirmed the problem and offered a discounted replacement. I’d like to repair it. I have had good luck fixing Sonos power supply problems in the past. This play-5 seems to work. I can connect and stream music to it. The problem is that the volume is barely audible, even when set to max. There are no volume limits. There’s no distortion and both channels are working. Do any of you have suggestions on how I can further pursue this? The large caps and the rectifier measure correctly. Might this still be a power supply problem or is it more likely an amplifier issue? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Lendy
It was a qualified guess that the chip was defect
i found a video online of repair of a Sonos zp100
here he changed the usual suspects. One of was the small chip So I just did the same.
kind regards Anders
Thx Anders, I have a Sonos 5 (rev 1), with working rectifier (diodebro), fuse not blown, but not working. All caps seems to be fine on HV side so I guess that 2QS02G could be the problem child. Any proposals on where to get this chip easiest?
Mvh / Br
Jesper
It was a qualified guess that the chip was defect
i found a video online of repair of a Sonos zp100
here he changed the usual suspects. One of was the small chip So I just did the same.
kind regards Anders
Hi Jesper
How did you conclude that 2QS02G was defect? I have 1 of the capacitors 820uf 35V that are defect, so I will change them.
Br
Jesper
I have changed the small chip that controls the mosfet
2QS02G
I also changed the rectifier MBR20150TC, but I do not thing it was defect. I broke it during the removal. I had to take it out to read the type. And therefore had to install a new one.
also changed 5 pcs electrolytic capacitors 820uf 35V
Measure every component in series with line voltage if you're unsure which one is a fuse.
2. Rectifier on the mains voltage side. There is only one rectifier. Black with 4 feet.
Sorry but if you do not recognize those components you may need to study some more electronics before repairing.
In fact you better measure capacitors and switching FET before you attempt to power it up.
Check as much as possible ...and preferably power it up with current limiting.
Some components cause lots of damage if unit is powered up with them blown or shorted.
Old thread i know, but i cam across this when researching my faulty Play 5 (1st Gen). The play 5 wouldn't show any signs of life. No power light and cannot be seen via app.
I opened it up follow logic and this take apart:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Sonos+Play+5+Motherboard+Replacement/87677
I tested the fuse and bridge Rectifier and as you say both faulty.
Bit of a mission desoldering the Rectifer. But all swapped over for new parts got from RS next day delivery and about £7.
The Play 5 is ALIVE!!!!!!
Thank you so much for this post. If i have another son, i shall call him Jlithen!
Anders do you have change this transistor on your last message ?
Mine did work right after i replaced the broken fuse&rectifier, the first time it broke. It then stopped working AGAIN 6 months later - but this time there was nothing wrong with the rectifier or fuse, so i don't think the problem has anything to do with the rectifier breaking...
I could when the rectifier went it took the Caps out just before the fuse blew ?
I’ve been doing repairs on play 3’s and again it’s rectifier caps and fuses to blame ! Although there was a hole through the PCB on the play 3
Going to try and repair 2 play5 and 2 play 1s
Wish me luck
I find next day with RS is reliable
Thanks
Ian
Exact same symptoms. Just desoldered the fuse and rectifier. Fuse is blown and measuring the rectifier, it seems that one of the diodes has failed. Will be picking up spareparts tomorrow - crossing my fingers that it works!
But someone should confiscate the hot glue gun from the workers at the assembly-line! Damn :)
/Dennis
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