Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips


Userlevel 1
Hi

Play:5, manufacturing date sometime around 2009, is completely dead. No light in LED.

Found several cases of this online, but no solutions.

Does anyone have any knowledge about the problem, og better yet, schematics..

I mainly suspect problem in switch mode power supply. Have only done very basic measuring, but I find 220VAC on primary side, no power on secondary side. I think about ordering a mosfet, and/or a diode I suspect, but if I had schematics I could do some more pinpointing..

208 replies

JesperBandersen,

SONOS does not support field service. Schematics are not published, but you may be able to find partial schematics generated by users. (I am not aware of any)
Same issue here.
I'm looking into doing a repair in my workshop, not field service :)

I opened it and see it looks quite well built, except for the cheap Chinese/Taiwanese capacitors.
At least none of them are bulged though.

Let's keep each other updated here about any info we find.
Actually mine had the mains fuse open and one diode in the mains side rectifier shorted.

Power mosfet and secondary rectifiers were ok.

I'll check the cheapo capacitors with an ESR meter in the evening.

Everything in this unit is very well glued, no wonder repairing is expensive 🙂
Cheapo caps were within specs and at least unit powers up now.

Seems unit needs to be connected via ethernet or some link thing...complicated (I would have hoped for WLAN or BT)

I will try to arrange that and test it. We will then see if this 3€ repair did the trick 😉
@jlithen - I think I'm having the same issue - a few questions if you don't mind:

1. I don't see an internal fuse - do you mean the power cable fuse?
2. Which diode exactly was shot for you?

Thanks!
1. Fuse is close to mains connector. Red cylindrical one I'd say. Maybe it was 3.15AT??? Not sure.
Measure every component in series with line voltage if you're unsure which one is a fuse.

2. Rectifier on the mains voltage side. There is only one rectifier. Black with 4 feet.

Sorry but if you do not recognize those components you may need to study some more electronics before repairing.

In fact you better measure capacitors and switching FET before you attempt to power it up.
Check as much as possible ...and preferably power it up with current limiting.
Some components cause lots of damage if unit is powered up with them blown or shorted.
Badge
1. Fuse is close to mains connector. Red cylindrical one I'd say. Maybe it was 3.15AT??? Not sure.
Measure every component in series with line voltage if you're unsure which one is a fuse.

2. Rectifier on the mains voltage side. There is only one rectifier. Black with 4 feet..


Correct, check these components first, after that - also verify that the thermistor next to the power socket isn't faulty.

KBU606 is the rectifier, a bit hard to desolder - but possible.

3.15A is indeed the fuse (3.15a slow blow fuse) - https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1zU5QKVXXXXXcXXXXq6xXFXXXe/-100pcs-lot-382-T3-15A-Miniature-Slow-Blow-Radial-font-b-Fuse-b-font-T3.jpg

https://sc04.alicdn.com/kf/HTB13d3jJVXXXXcRXFXXq6xXFXXXi/6A-600V-diode-bridge-rectifier-KBU606-50pcs-lot.jpg

And as jlithen said - messure all other components on the HW-side aswell (capacitors, diods and similar).

Good luck!
Thanks a lot Jine
I have a sonos5 first gen with a power supply issue and you're right, it was a problem of fuse and rectifier.
The rectifier was effectively hard to desolder. After replacement of both component my Sonos sings again !!
Thanks again to the community
JJH from France
Thanks!

Exact same symptoms. Just desoldered the fuse and rectifier. Fuse is blown and measuring the rectifier, it seems that one of the diodes has failed. Will be picking up spareparts tomorrow - crossing my fingers that it works!

But someone should confiscate the hot glue gun from the workers at the assembly-line! Damn :)

/Dennis
And it worked! New rectifier and fuse, and the Dead:5 is now a Play:5 again...
My Play:5 is suffering the same issue, checked the fuse and the rectifier, the ac side of the rectifier is showing signs of a diode short circuit and the fuse has blown. Parts on order, wish me luck.
Thank you all for the contributions. I have been able to repair my play 5 without technical training. The play 5 was completely dead. The parts as described for a few euros ordered at aliexpress and after 4 weeks of waiting I could work on de play 5. It was the most awkward thing without damaging anything, removing the rectifier. In the end, the play5 plays for a few euros and a few hours of patient and meticulous it works again.
Great article. My play 5 sings again. Thank you so much!
Userlevel 1
Badge
This looks a great thread
I’ve been doing repairs on play 3’s and again it’s rectifier caps and fuses to blame ! Although there was a hole through the PCB on the play 3
Going to try and repair 2 play5 and 2 play 1s
Wish me luck
I find next day with RS is reliable
Thanks
Ian
My play:5 broke down about 6 months ago, and i fixed it bye changing the KBU606 and the 3.15AT fuse, as mentioned here. But now it broke down again, and i assumed the same fix would do the trick - but no - this time the rectifier&fuse are working as they should. Yet nothing happens when i plug it in. Anyone who's found another fix to the symptoms besides changing the rectifier&fuse?
Userlevel 1
Badge
Tried changing the Caps just after the rectifier ?
I could when the rectifier went it took the Caps out just before the fuse blew ?
Which ones broke on yours? Nevertheless none of them seem to be damaged..

Mine did work right after i replaced the broken fuse&rectifier, the first time it broke. It then stopped working AGAIN 6 months later - but this time there was nothing wrong with the rectifier or fuse, so i don't think the problem has anything to do with the rectifier breaking...
hi my 7 years old play 5 has also now stopped working. opened it up hoping it was the fault decribed with fuse and rectifier, but they are both fine,
have anyone fixed this error.


Hello I Have the similar problem of Anders J. (304DC ok, 240VAC ok etc...).

Anders do you have change this transistor on your last message ?
Hi I have not done more work yet
I am not sure that the transistor is the fault. The dis coloring could be rubbed off

1. Fuse is close to mains connector. Red cylindrical one I'd say. Maybe it was 3.15AT??? Not sure.
Measure every component in series with line voltage if you're unsure which one is a fuse.

2. Rectifier on the mains voltage side. There is only one rectifier. Black with 4 feet.

Sorry but if you do not recognize those components you may need to study some more electronics before repairing.

In fact you better measure capacitors and switching FET before you attempt to power it up.
Check as much as possible ...and preferably power it up with current limiting.
Some components cause lots of damage if unit is powered up with them blown or shorted.


Old thread i know, but i cam across this when researching my faulty Play 5 (1st Gen). The play 5 wouldn't show any signs of life. No power light and cannot be seen via app.

I opened it up follow logic and this take apart:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Sonos+Play+5+Motherboard+Replacement/87677

I tested the fuse and bridge Rectifier and as you say both faulty.

Bit of a mission desoldering the Rectifer. But all swapped over for new parts got from RS next day delivery and about £7.
The Play 5 is ALIVE!!!!!!

Thank you so much for this post. If i have another son, i shall call him Jlithen!
God news my sonos Play 5 sings


I have changed the small chip that controls the mosfet
2QS02G
I also changed the rectifier MBR20150TC, but I do not thing it was defect. I broke it during the removal. I had to take it out to read the type. And therefore had to install a new one.

also changed 5 pcs electrolytic capacitors 820uf 35V


Hi Jesper

 

How did you conclude that 2QS02G was defect? I have 1 of the capacitors 820uf 35V that are defect, so I will change them.

 

Br

Jesper

It was a qualified guess that the chip was defect

i found a video online of repair of a Sonos zp100 

here he changed the usual suspects. One of was the small chip So I just did the same.  
 

kind regards Anders

Reply