Repair ZP120

Ahhh yes, that would do it 🙂

I figured to grab my other broken Sonos amp from storage and I didn’t notice it when I bought it but it looks like the previous owner already opened id.

The fuse was open, and the solder points looks very shady, so either he replaced the fuse or only tried doing so.

I had a pair of fuses lying around so I quickly replaced it, reassembled everything and once I plugged in the power chord my lights went out and I could smell electronic burn xD 

Is this a case where it’s appropriate to use a bulb? A friend of mine told me to hook up a bench power supply (with very low voltage) and trace the signal from there.

All other components looked good, from the look of it.

BTW How can I figure out that the 110v/230v switch is ok and not shorted?

Hi gruv2ths,

Thank you very much for sharing the pictures. My secondary winding are still intact and I need mainly to figure out the primary connections. I think I got it from your pictures and I will give it a try.

You are correct this is the eBay sell with broken bottom. I cut a deal with the seller for $70 and I was willing to take the risk just for fun. 🙂 The condition was not as bad as I thought since I can see nobody has tried to fix it and the damages are all mechanical. I hope will fixing the transformer it can be back to life.

Please give me a price for the transformer as well as with the bottom.

Thanks again for the help,

-Tao

Hi gruv2ths,

With the help of your pictures, I think this time I did an OK job recovering the transformer:

All windings now have expected connectivity and resistance. My plan is to flip the transformer (pins sticking up), glue it on the PCB, and use coated wires to connect it back to PCB. That way I can easy fix it in case something happened during the soldering process. I will keep decent gap between wires.

I will keep you updated.

Thanks again for the help,

-Tao

Hi Guys,

I managed to install the fixed transformer back to the power supply board:

I double checked all the connections then powered on. I was using RTN1 (pin1) as GND and I did get 3.3V output which means the primary is working now. On the other hand, if I use the same RTN1 or the CPU_GND, I got nothing from either the 8.4V or the 15.4V. I then switched the GND to RTN2 (pin3 of the secondary) and I was getting ~7.8V and 14.8V from both outputs. I was really happen to see that. It seems that the 3.3V and 5V/14V don't share the same GND. I remembered someone suggested to short them together but I was not sure if I should do that if by design they are separated.

I was very excited to put everything together and powered on. The good news is nothing blow-up but the bad news is the LED didn't turn on. I will have to debug it later. I am not sure if it is related to the GND connection.

Thanks again for all the help so far.

That's great news. Now IIWY, I would be sure those leads are coated. Get some liquid eletric tape and slather them. The reason is the electronics on that board are really not friendly to shorts. That PWM blows by just looking at it and its a tough part to get. Both gruv2ths and I have blown those multiple times.

I believe it was gruv2ths who said you could short the two RTNs and all should be good.

Let us know if its all working... its great to hear when we get one up and running. 🙂

NVM, after putting everything together, now i can see the two RTN points are shorted probably by the main board. I will do more detail measurements tonight.

LED States FAQ

Here’s what it looks like to me:  Sonos may have done away with their “recycle” program, but now they’re using “forced obsolescence”, and shutting down older units to force people into upgrading. 

 

Upgrade to what? The Amp isn’t available to ship until at least Sept. 3. My ZP-120 continues to work fine. 

Aynamne, use the cheat sheet I made above and see if you have any of the bias converter working.
There was another guy on here with the same symptom as you and I think he gave up. Not sure what causes that.

All, great thread running here.

I'm wondering if I can drop a question in here rather than starting a new thread? Does anyone have a view on the various ceramic caps in the zp120? In particular would anyone know what I would need to replace the two large yellow ceramic caps that are located between the two storage caps with? they appear to be labelled D16033 and D16034. Thanks for any help you can provide.

Hello, I replaced the components and it works again. Thanks very much

 

Hi
I hope there is someone who can help me.
I have a ZP120 that flashes orange and white.
It will not play music, but if I hold the mute button for a few seconds, I can make it light dimmed white and I can play music.
But only for 2-3 minutes, then it pauses again and starts blinking orange and white again.
I have had it apart and there was a little corrosion on the print card, I have cleaned the corrosion and I could not see that something was wrong with the print.
Does anyone have an idea of what it can be?