Play 3 Powersupply fault.


Userlevel 2
Hi,
My Play 3 died the other day and I am just outside my warrenty period 😞 I contacted sonos customer services who did not help me in the slightest. I have now looked at the power supply board and seen that the board around one of the input capacitor has burnt out and or the cap itself.

As customer services won't even sell me a new power board, does anyone have a circuit diagram for this board so i can attempt to repair it myself. ( I am competent with electronics).
P/N: RN-002657 (board number)
Date: 08-04-11

Also has anyone else experienced this fault. I am assuming a power surge has done this.

Many thanks

Jamietaylor13

103 replies

Userlevel 2
In continuation to the above,

Upon stripping down the play three which proved pretty easy due to its modular design, the issue with the power supply board was the capacitor (C306) had exploded. This is the smoothing capacitor post bridge rectifier. When this exploded it also took out the PCB track sandwiched between the board (multilayer PCB).

After bridging the broken track and replacing the Capacitor with another 33uF 4ooV from RS, the supply was tested and all good.

My Play 3 is now back in action.
Userlevel 2
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ba5g91xeyypmkkf/AAC625okmjO47GFZYDOaPT-Ca?dl=0
Userlevel 2
Having soak tested my play 3 for a few month, I can confirm that the fix worked with no other issues. Thanks Buzz for the useful tips. I managed to source the same capacitors and looked at the balancing of the old verses new. All seems fine and not problems with noise etc.

I have recently been contacted regarding the above issue happening to another Sonos user. Unfortunately, as i have only posted 3 times I cannot reply to you privately however I hope that you can view this link to a few photos of the circuit diagram and damage to the board.

Let me know how you get on.

cheers

J
I have the exact same problem on my Play 3, same code too: P/N: RN-002657 (board number)
Date: 08-04-11. Will follow the guide and replace the capacitor.
Exactly the same problem here. Replaced all three capacitor and bridged the + lead from C306 to the + lead of the bridge-rectifier. Also had to replace the fuse F301 (that little brown cylinder reading T2A). Don't forget to check that fuse. All working fine again. Costs: 10 euro (I bought higher voltage/better quality capacitors) and some hours instead of the 180 euro Sonos offered me to replace my PLAY:3 witha new one...
Thanks to Jamie Taylor. I had exactly the same issue, and exactly the same image.
They have thermally tied the capacitor to the diode array (which does get hot). Not a good move. The track blowing saves the rest of the circuit.
Full marks to Sonos for allowing the forum though. Hopefully they'llsee this as a common issue and not put it in future designs.
Upon investigation I find that the date code for my sisters PSU board is identical to the one for Jamie who previously reported this problem. Same burnt piece of pcb too.
C'mon guys we weren't born yesterday and some of us have sufficient knowledge of electronics reliability to recognise a common mode failure.
I now have exactly the same problem with exactly the same place burnt out on my board as the drop box pictures by Jamie and the same board number no coincidence I feel!! Board date 08-04-11
By replacing the pot was everything ok as it looks like some of the PCB blown too ?Why cant Sonos provide a complete board change as an electrician I am always doing component changes on boards. Can anyone assist with a new board?
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I picked up a faulty play 3 for a tenner the other day. Heck of a deal.
Cracked it open and turns out I have the same power board revision as what jamietaylor13 posted except my capacitors were fine.
Turns out the digital power switch literally blew its guts out. Likely through a power surge. I heard rattling as I was dissasembling and it was the top of the chip exploring it's new-found freedom inside the unit. Fortunately the chip number was still visible on the little cap bouncing around.
It was a Fairchild Green Mode Power Switch model number FSQ0565R but none can be had outside of 1 month shipping from China so I found the next model up FSQ0765R which is pretty much the same except a little beefier with power handling. Ordered one off fleabay for 6 quid and arrived next day. Today I soldered that bad boy in and still had no power so I had to start tracing back the power source and found that the fuse had also blown. It's the tiny little brown cylinder near where the 240AC enters the PCB. I soldered a temporary bridge (yes, I know, leave me alone) and woila! working!
Anyway, I thought my experience may be of help to someone else out there.
Here is another guy that was able to repair a play 3 with jamietaylor13`s fix.
My play 3 died under penetrating smell.....

After opening I saw that capacitor (C306) was exploded and cracked the conducting paths around.
I unsoldered C306 and bridged the + lead from C319 to the + lead of the bridge-rectifier and measured power at the connector to the motherboard.

So I ordered and replaced all three capacitors wired the bridge rectifier to C306 and my unit is working again.

Thanks a lot for this guide and especially for the pictures and the wiring diagram in your dropbox!
well after being quoted a large amount just to look at it (out of warranty) I have opened up and checked. I am very competent with electronics and repair although the more modern the electronics the more tricky this can be. The exact same capacitor blew on mine C306 , same burn marks everything. It has burnt it's way through the board too so I'm sorry there is a definitive risk of fire hazard there. Considering we're advised to leave the devices running in the manual I don't think this can be right. Even if it's a bad batch with the same capacitors used. My part number for the PSU is RN-002657 Dated 08-04-11. I will be checking my second Play:3 to see if I can prevent the issue there.
Yep FYI mine just blew and I have a cap blown and the track burnt after the bridge rectifier. It's the same board RN-002657 with a date of 08-04-11. Seems to be a common theme here now.
I have the exact same problem. RN-002657. Date 08-04-11
Mine has a burn mark in exactly the same place as on the pictures!!! It is not a coincidence We Have The Same board and symptoms !!! SONOS Should take responsibility for this before it happens a accident, a home burn down ...... In Sweden we have strictly laws about this and the the label can be prohibited to be sold! But there is no one who wants to know about the problem at SONOS in SWEDEN!
Very sad if it should happen an accident, before SONOS reacting. Especially when the products are so incredible in itself!
Hi All,

Bearing in mind only a few of us will take these units apart and then only a few of that number will take the time to come on here, I am certain this is a design fault with the Sonos 3.

I have the same board in my Sonos 3 P/N: RN-002657
Capacitor C306 has blown exactly as others have experienced and destroyed part of the circuit board, due to over heating.

As an electronics engineer of some 45 years standing I can confirm there is something very wrong with this product and Sonos should be dealing with it and accepting the fault.

I will attempt a repair but think the circuit board may be too far gone. We shall see.

Best regards


Chris
Userlevel 7
Badge +26
Hi everyone, interesting discussion but I want to make sure that anyone who gets to this thread knows not to open your Sonos products if you're looking to do any sort of replacement or repair with us.

Sonos products are not designed to be opened and repaired out in the world, and we do not provide any resources or replacement components for doing this. The warranty services for Sonos components also does not cover units that have been opened in any way.

Even if your player is outside the standard warranty time, we can probably still assist with a replacement as long as it hasn't been opened. There will likely be a fee for the replacement if it's out of warranty.

Anytime a unit fails, we want them to come back to us when possible so that we can review what happened and make adjustments if there's need.

If you have a PLAY:3 that's not powering up, or think there's any other hardware issue for that matter, feel free to give us a call on our support line before trying to open it up.

Thanks!
Same issue: dead PLAY:3 and scorched PCB trace between the bridge rectifier and C306.

Thanks to mave64 for sharing their troubleshooting procedure - remove C306 and add a jumper from the + lead of C319 to the + terminal of the bridge rectifier to bypass the blown PCB trace. I was then able to measure ~5V on the supply output and verify that everything else was working. After replacing all three filter caps, my PLAY:3 is up and running again!

Also thanks to Sonos for hosting this forum and keeping this thread around. They're not the only equipment manufacturer to be bitten by a bad batch of electrolytics (that failed 6 years down the road).
Most rarely happen. Don't know actual cause. Maybe that part is susceptible to power surges.
8===} Seagul !
What's it take- Cool I know how to fix them now! Maybe I can score a few "non-functioning units" and outfit every room .
Shame Shame - if you search you will notice the "no power phenomenon is not restricted to just the sonos play 3... I did notice the play 1 had a different diode - but that one failed as well and had the same burn marks- I referred them to this splendid post!
Sonos Step up and earn my respect back! I'm pissed I won't be able to continue backing your product. I'm sure you have this powersupplies ready to go! You (sonos) should be looking at this as an optotunity to solidify your reputation and build loyalty!

Shame shame Shame

Take that Chris from Virginia

Good luck To all, waiting on Sonos to step-up

Cliff
Userlevel 2
Hi Everyone,
I have not checked this thread since I resolved my issue and I am absolutely amazed to see the activity on this topic. I'm glad that my fix assisted others who are competent to do this work but I also feel sad that the vast majority of people who experience this issue outside of their warranty period have to fork out a lot of money for what is a relatively simple fix. It is clear that the batch has a common fault and I hope this was engineered out in future iterations of the board. In my opinion, this should have been recalled if there is a common fault on this product version as this thread seems to demonstrate in my opinion.

In response to Ryan S's comment about voiding warranties. I agree that people should not attempt a repair if it is still within the warranty period however this will now no longer be the case with this aged board I assume as a newer version will now be implemented. I would like to state that I called the customer service department and I was not offered any service to repair or replace the item. Granted it was outside the warranty period but literally by months. I was left to deal with this issue on my own. I really do hope that Sonos have improved their support in helping people maintain their products. Knowing that there is a good support service is critical in all industries and will only help the reputation of the company.

I will conclude that my Play3 is still up and running every day with no further issues. That's a three-year soak test! Thank you, Sonos for keeping this thread going and I hope it proves useful to those who own a Play3 P/N: RN-002657 (board number) dated 08-04-11 in the future.
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Hi imagine-luismi
Sorry currently at work in Saudi so can’t check voltage output but roughly one side was 15v dc and the other was 5v dc

Thanks Jamie Taylor
I have now repaired 3 units all with the same PSU fault
I have one new play 3 under warranty 1 year old (as soon as it expires I will open it and check the PSU see if they did revise the PSU)
Ian
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Does anyone know where we could get a drawing ? PCB diagram?
If possible?
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I too have had this fault with my PLAY:3, and upon dismantling it is clear that there is damage also to one of the surface mount diodes. In fact, excatly the same as ovidiu1971's post. I have sourced some new capacitors to replace those, however I am not sure what spec this component is, and wondered whether any of you have had the same issue and if any solution was found? It appears to be D307, and has a code of AN 97 printed on it. As far as I can see, I will have to bridge the track to wherever the diode's anode was connected.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as I cannot find a schematic or circuit diagram anywhere, and the board is quite badly charred!! :)

jamietaylor13,

First post! Welcome to the forums.

SONOS does not support DIY service in any way. I know that this policy chaffs some, but it probably eliminates some legal risk and saves a lot of time supporting DIY's of various skill levels. SONOS is not unique for establishing this policy.

Burnt traces and capacitors are usually the victim of a larger drama.
Userlevel 2
Thanks Buzz,

Yes I guess its probably the best policy for them.

I guess I will be getting my multimeter out and spend some time figuring it out. Doesn't look like a complex supply so should be pretty easy to find the fault.

I will keep posting my findings

J
jamietaylor13,

Thanks for the follow up.

Did you monitor the temperature of C306 for a while after the repair? I doubt that the original capacitor was the generic type that one would expect to find at Radio Shack. If the ripple current is beyond the replacement capacitor's capability, you'll be repeating this exercise again.

I expect that there are small capacitors across the bridge rectifier. Did these look OK? If you have a second PLAY:3 and a portable AM radio, place the radio near the repaired PLAY:3 and compare the emissions with a never repaired PLAY:3 (this is tricky, be sure to use identical relative positioning for each test) If emission from the repaired PLAY:3 is substantially higher than the never repaired unit, be suspicious. Of course you could have more emissions because of a simple re-assembly issue, but there might be more.

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