Play 3 Powersupply fault.

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My Play 3 died the other day and I am just outside my warrenty period 😞 I contacted sonos customer services who did not help me in the slightest. I have now looked at the power supply board and seen that the board around one of the input capacitor has burnt out and or the cap itself.

As customer services won't even sell me a new power board, does anyone have a circuit diagram for this board so i can attempt to repair it myself. ( I am competent with electronics).
P/N: RN-002657 (board number)
Date: 08-04-11

Also has anyone else experienced this fault. I am assuming a power surge has done this.

Many thanks


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103 replies

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In continuation to the above,

Upon stripping down the play three which proved pretty easy due to its modular design, the issue with the power supply board was the capacitor (C306) had exploded. This is the smoothing capacitor post bridge rectifier. When this exploded it also took out the PCB track sandwiched between the board (multilayer PCB).

After bridging the broken track and replacing the Capacitor with another 33uF 4ooV from RS, the supply was tested and all good.

My Play 3 is now back in action.
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Having soak tested my play 3 for a few month, I can confirm that the fix worked with no other issues. Thanks Buzz for the useful tips. I managed to source the same capacitors and looked at the balancing of the old verses new. All seems fine and not problems with noise etc.

I have recently been contacted regarding the above issue happening to another Sonos user. Unfortunately, as i have only posted 3 times I cannot reply to you privately however I hope that you can view this link to a few photos of the circuit diagram and damage to the board.

Let me know how you get on.


I have the exact same problem on my Play 3, same code too: P/N: RN-002657 (board number)
Date: 08-04-11. Will follow the guide and replace the capacitor.
Exactly the same problem here. Replaced all three capacitor and bridged the + lead from C306 to the + lead of the bridge-rectifier. Also had to replace the fuse F301 (that little brown cylinder reading T2A). Don't forget to check that fuse. All working fine again. Costs: 10 euro (I bought higher voltage/better quality capacitors) and some hours instead of the 180 euro Sonos offered me to replace my PLAY:3 witha new one...
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Upon investigation I find that the date code for my sisters PSU board is identical to the one for Jamie who previously reported this problem. Same burnt piece of pcb too.
C'mon guys we weren't born yesterday and some of us have sufficient knowledge of electronics reliability to recognise a common mode failure.
I now have exactly the same problem with exactly the same place burnt out on my board as the drop box pictures by Jamie and the same board number no coincidence I feel!! Board date 08-04-11
By replacing the pot was everything ok as it looks like some of the PCB blown too ?Why cant Sonos provide a complete board change as an electrician I am always doing component changes on boards. Can anyone assist with a new board?
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I picked up a faulty play 3 for a tenner the other day. Heck of a deal.
Cracked it open and turns out I have the same power board revision as what jamietaylor13 posted except my capacitors were fine.
Turns out the digital power switch literally blew its guts out. Likely through a power surge. I heard rattling as I was dissasembling and it was the top of the chip exploring it's new-found freedom inside the unit. Fortunately the chip number was still visible on the little cap bouncing around.
It was a Fairchild Green Mode Power Switch model number FSQ0565R but none can be had outside of 1 month shipping from China so I found the next model up FSQ0765R which is pretty much the same except a little beefier with power handling. Ordered one off fleabay for 6 quid and arrived next day. Today I soldered that bad boy in and still had no power so I had to start tracing back the power source and found that the fuse had also blown. It's the tiny little brown cylinder near where the 240AC enters the PCB. I soldered a temporary bridge (yes, I know, leave me alone) and woila! working!
Anyway, I thought my experience may be of help to someone else out there.
Here is another guy that was able to repair a play 3 with jamietaylor13`s fix.
My play 3 died under penetrating smell.....

After opening I saw that capacitor (C306) was exploded and cracked the conducting paths around.
I unsoldered C306 and bridged the + lead from C319 to the + lead of the bridge-rectifier and measured power at the connector to the motherboard.

So I ordered and replaced all three capacitors wired the bridge rectifier to C306 and my unit is working again.

Thanks a lot for this guide and especially for the pictures and the wiring diagram in your dropbox!
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well after being quoted a large amount just to look at it (out of warranty) I have opened up and checked. I am very competent with electronics and repair although the more modern the electronics the more tricky this can be. The exact same capacitor blew on mine C306 , same burn marks everything. It has burnt it's way through the board too so I'm sorry there is a definitive risk of fire hazard there. Considering we're advised to leave the devices running in the manual I don't think this can be right. Even if it's a bad batch with the same capacitors used. My part number for the PSU is RN-002657 Dated 08-04-11. I will be checking my second Play:3 to see if I can prevent the issue there.
Hi All,

Bearing in mind only a few of us will take these units apart and then only a few of that number will take the time to come on here, I am certain this is a design fault with the Sonos 3.

I have the same board in my Sonos 3 P/N: RN-002657
Capacitor C306 has blown exactly as others have experienced and destroyed part of the circuit board, due to over heating.

As an electronics engineer of some 45 years standing I can confirm there is something very wrong with this product and Sonos should be dealing with it and accepting the fault.

I will attempt a repair but think the circuit board may be too far gone. We shall see.

Best regards

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Most rarely happen. Don't know actual cause. Maybe that part is susceptible to power surges.
8===} Seagul !
What's it take- Cool I know how to fix them now! Maybe I can score a few "non-functioning units" and outfit every room .
Shame Shame - if you search you will notice the "no power phenomenon is not restricted to just the sonos play 3... I did notice the play 1 had a different diode - but that one failed as well and had the same burn marks- I referred them to this splendid post!
Sonos Step up and earn my respect back! I'm pissed I won't be able to continue backing your product. I'm sure you have this powersupplies ready to go! You (sonos) should be looking at this as an optotunity to solidify your reputation and build loyalty!

Shame shame Shame

Take that Chris from Virginia

Good luck To all, waiting on Sonos to step-up

Thanks to Jamie Taylor. I had exactly the same issue, and exactly the same image.
They have thermally tied the capacitor to the diode array (which does get hot). Not a good move. The track blowing saves the rest of the circuit.
Full marks to Sonos for allowing the forum though. Hopefully they'llsee this as a common issue and not put it in future designs.
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Hi Everyone,
I have not checked this thread since I resolved my issue and I am absolutely amazed to see the activity on this topic. I'm glad that my fix assisted others who are competent to do this work but I also feel sad that the vast majority of people who experience this issue outside of their warranty period have to fork out a lot of money for what is a relatively simple fix. It is clear that the batch has a common fault and I hope this was engineered out in future iterations of the board. In my opinion, this should have been recalled if there is a common fault on this product version as this thread seems to demonstrate in my opinion.

In response to Ryan S's comment about voiding warranties. I agree that people should not attempt a repair if it is still within the warranty period however this will now no longer be the case with this aged board I assume as a newer version will now be implemented. I would like to state that I called the customer service department and I was not offered any service to repair or replace the item. Granted it was outside the warranty period but literally by months. I was left to deal with this issue on my own. I really do hope that Sonos have improved their support in helping people maintain their products. Knowing that there is a good support service is critical in all industries and will only help the reputation of the company.

I will conclude that my Play3 is still up and running every day with no further issues. That's a three-year soak test! Thank you, Sonos for keeping this thread going and I hope it proves useful to those who own a Play3 P/N: RN-002657 (board number) dated 08-04-11 in the future.
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Hi Wiggy, this hardly surprises me. I am a specialist reliability electronics engineer and I recognise common mode failures when I see them. Manufacturers usually want to avoid liability issues so they tend to simply deny everything, as we have seen here. Most of us want to just get our products going again, not pursue litigation.
SONOS adopt a policy of not supporting third party repairs so they do not currently supply replacement boards, but if enough of us complain they might just listen, or least provide circuit diagrams so that we can see what needs to be replaced. Are you reading this SONOS?
My board is so badly burnt that the inter layer tracks have burnt out so replacing the capacitor didn't do the trick, I have been to busy to investigate further, but will be interested in yours or anyone else's experiences!
Yep FYI mine just blew and I have a cap blown and the track burnt after the bridge rectifier. It's the same board RN-002657 with a date of 08-04-11. Seems to be a common theme here now.
I have the exact same problem. RN-002657. Date 08-04-11
Mine has a burn mark in exactly the same place as on the pictures!!! It is not a coincidence We Have The Same board and symptoms !!! SONOS Should take responsibility for this before it happens a accident, a home burn down ...... In Sweden we have strictly laws about this and the the label can be prohibited to be sold! But there is no one who wants to know about the problem at SONOS in SWEDEN!
Very sad if it should happen an accident, before SONOS reacting. Especially when the products are so incredible in itself!
Same issue: dead PLAY:3 and scorched PCB trace between the bridge rectifier and C306.

Thanks to mave64 for sharing their troubleshooting procedure - remove C306 and add a jumper from the + lead of C319 to the + terminal of the bridge rectifier to bypass the blown PCB trace. I was then able to measure ~5V on the supply output and verify that everything else was working. After replacing all three filter caps, my PLAY:3 is up and running again!

Also thanks to Sonos for hosting this forum and keeping this thread around. They're not the only equipment manufacturer to be bitten by a bad batch of electrolytics (that failed 6 years down the road).
Same thing happened to me. The C306 is fried:

Date: 08-04-11

Great to read that it may be possible to fix it by replacing the capacitors. I am not an electronics expert but I know how to do basic soldering. Could you please recommend some good replacement parts to get? eg. from RS:

@sonos I know you don't recommend opening the Play 3 but it is 5 years old and you will not replace it anyway. My only alternative is to throw it out and buy a new one so I might as well try to fix it first....

Thanks in advance
Well what do you know, same problem here and same board. This is NOT a coincidence as someone said earlier! This is a design flaw and SONOS knows about this.

P/N: RN-002657 (board number)
Date: 08-04-11

I have unsoldered the three 33uf caps and the fuse (tested with an ohm meter and its dead) I hope that it works after replacing these, the burnt track will be replaced by a 14awg cable. I hope the rectifier is ok otherwise I just replace that also. I have cleaned the board with a toothbrush and alcohol.. Ill get back to you with the results. Funny thing is that I havent used that Play 3 so much but when it broke I played it quite loud. The circuit board track wasnt sufficient for the amps going through I guess? It would be fun to see a newer board and compare the design..
Hi I just had the same problem, my play 3 with same board number just went off last weekend. The play 3 was one of the fist to hit the market and had the same board as yours. What happened to the board was a good question the ESR of the caps was out of specs for all three c306 was the worst with 2,8 ohms and had leaked, but it was not the only one the capacity was either the way still within specs. I would recommend that you replace all thee with some quality Japanese caps as Panasonic as I have bought the pay are long life high ripple and have an ESR of less than 1/4 of a the jackcons. I did as well incremeted the capacity to 46uF°C%203000-10000%20Hrs.pdf
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Hi imagine-luismi
Sorry currently at work in Saudi so can’t check voltage output but roughly one side was 15v dc and the other was 5v dc

Thanks Jamie Taylor
I have now repaired 3 units all with the same PSU fault
I have one new play 3 under warranty 1 year old (as soon as it expires I will open it and check the PSU see if they did revise the PSU)
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Thanks Buzz,

Yes I guess its probably the best policy for them.

I guess I will be getting my multimeter out and spend some time figuring it out. Doesn't look like a complex supply so should be pretty easy to find the fault.

I will keep posting my findings

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My sister has several Sonos components, but when her relatively new (but out of warranty) Play 3 died she has become concerned about overall Sonos reliability and Sonos support.
She contacted Sonos who told her it would cost her around £120 just to look at her Play 3? Interesting approach to customer support for a high end product!
As I am a bit of a dab hand with electronics I agreed to take a look for free! Having dismantled the Play 3, I discover part of the PSU board is burnt out, sounding familiar? Is this a common mode failure for the Play 3 or Sonos units in general?
I was interested to read this post as it seems to follow a similar trend, are there more out there?
I will investigate further and advise what I find with regards to the actual fault.