Hi,
My Play 3 died the other day and I am just outside my warrenty period 😞 I contacted sonos customer services who did not help me in the slightest. I have now looked at the power supply board and seen that the board around one of the input capacitor has burnt out and or the cap itself.
As customer services won't even sell me a new power board, does anyone have a circuit diagram for this board so i can attempt to repair it myself. ( I am competent with electronics).
P/N: RN-002657 (board number)
Date: 08-04-11
Also has anyone else experienced this fault. I am assuming a power surge has done this.
Many thanks
Jamietaylor13
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Userlevel 1
That's reassuring to hear, although this does surprise me seeing the nature of the failure, which looks remarkably similar to the photos posted by Jamie! I will try to post some of my own. Better these things are brought out into the open!
I doubt that there is any fire hazard. A small part can emit quite a stench when stressed, but not present any significant hazard to life or property.
It seems that this is a failure mode of PLAY:3, but here we have no idea how many have failed in this manner. It is possible that all of the failures have been reported here or only a fraction. We simply don't know. We also don't know if there are contributing factors to consider -- such as ambient temperature, power line voltage, hours of use, orientation, etc.
It seems that this is a failure mode of PLAY:3, but here we have no idea how many have failed in this manner. It is possible that all of the failures have been reported here or only a fraction. We simply don't know. We also don't know if there are contributing factors to consider -- such as ambient temperature, power line voltage, hours of use, orientation, etc.
Userlevel 1
suppose.. but makes me think twice about leaving them on now , that's for certain.
Userlevel 1
Repaired, luckily the board was not damaged beyond repair. I had to make a new rail on the negative side of the capacitor/rectifier where it had burnt through as it was a sandwiched PCB board with a central layer. I've put in three new higher temperature rated capacitors to replace even the ones that did not blow (they too look slightly enlarged however). Bench testing now for observations.
Mine has a burn mark in exactly the same place as on the pictures. Must be just a coincidence we have the same board and symptom.
Hi everyone, interesting discussion but I want to make sure that anyone who gets to this thread knows not to open your Sonos products if you're looking to do any sort of replacement or repair with us.
Sonos products are not designed to be opened and repaired out in the world, and we do not provide any resources or replacement components for doing this. The warranty services for Sonos components also does not cover units that have been opened in any way.
Even if your player is outside the standard warranty time, we can probably still assist with a replacement as long as it hasn't been opened. There will likely be a fee for the replacement if it's out of warranty.
Anytime a unit fails, we want them to come back to us when possible so that we can review what happened and make adjustments if there's need.
If you have a PLAY:3 that's not powering up, or think there's any other hardware issue for that matter, feel free to give us a call on our support line before trying to open it up.
Thanks!
Sonos products are not designed to be opened and repaired out in the world, and we do not provide any resources or replacement components for doing this. The warranty services for Sonos components also does not cover units that have been opened in any way.
Even if your player is outside the standard warranty time, we can probably still assist with a replacement as long as it hasn't been opened. There will likely be a fee for the replacement if it's out of warranty.
Anytime a unit fails, we want them to come back to us when possible so that we can review what happened and make adjustments if there's need.
If you have a PLAY:3 that's not powering up, or think there's any other hardware issue for that matter, feel free to give us a call on our support line before trying to open it up.
Thanks!
Userlevel 1
Me too, same BS with the same capacitor blown. Its on a Trip-lite surge protector that runs my wifes MAC and printer. I have 2 PLAY 3s getting up around 5 years old. Thanks for the great write up... I talk Sonos up to all my buddies and I have to say this is disappointing. My flipping OG xbox got the red ring 3 times, thing was 8 years past its "Warranty" - MS sent me a box that i used a few times and repaired it free of charge and shipping... So even though i wanted to switch back to Playstation - I did finally upgrade to the Xbox_One... Very disappointing that Sonos cant stand behind the product! Really makes me consider another option instead of continue to add speakers that last 5 years.
Just in-case you are smarter than me- hear is the patent, maybe we can add a flexcapacitor to smooth out the power supply switch fault
http://patents.justia.com/patent/8867761
To facilitate the description of the present invention, FIG. 3A shows one embodiment 300 employing two power supplies 302 and 304 alternatively to energize an amplifier 308. The power supply 302 is designed to have a voltage 14V, and the power supply 304 is designed to have a voltage 36V. In operation, when the power supply 304 is turned off, a diode 306 is on, thus the power supply 302 is applied to the amplifier 308. When the power supply 304 is turned on, the diode 306 is off, thus the power supply 304 is applied to the amplifier 308. It should be noted that the use of the diode 306 is one of the exemplary switch mechanisms that may be controlled to switch between two power supplies. Other examples of the switch mechanisms may include, but not be limited to, a solid-state switch and a mechanical switch.
Just in-case you are smarter than me- hear is the patent, maybe we can add a flexcapacitor to smooth out the power supply switch fault
http://patents.justia.com/patent/8867761
To facilitate the description of the present invention, FIG. 3A shows one embodiment 300 employing two power supplies 302 and 304 alternatively to energize an amplifier 308. The power supply 302 is designed to have a voltage 14V, and the power supply 304 is designed to have a voltage 36V. In operation, when the power supply 304 is turned off, a diode 306 is on, thus the power supply 302 is applied to the amplifier 308. When the power supply 304 is turned on, the diode 306 is off, thus the power supply 304 is applied to the amplifier 308. It should be noted that the use of the diode 306 is one of the exemplary switch mechanisms that may be controlled to switch between two power supplies. Other examples of the switch mechanisms may include, but not be limited to, a solid-state switch and a mechanical switch.
Userlevel 1
Yes, shouldn't Sonos provide this service - Don't care what the warranty says, if I wanted to build a solid customer base I would resolve the quality or design failure and replace them -free of charge and shipping. They clearly know they have a problem and are not providing the needed service, I am so disappointed in Sonos Support and understand why they are struggling with the added competition in the wireless speaker market.
From all the images of burn out on the power switching pcb, it seems like an overheating issue. Maybe due to the vibration reduction glue creeping down onto the contacts, resulting in PCB trace shorts-
A good company that is in it for the long hall would replace these power supplies free of charge with new designed power supplies.
Hi all.
I too have a faulty Play:3. No power. But my caps are fine. I will replace the switch-IC (FSQ0765R). But if that fails i will try with another powerunit. Do anyone know what voltage the unit puts out?
Best rgds
I too have a faulty Play:3. No power. But my caps are fine. I will replace the switch-IC (FSQ0765R). But if that fails i will try with another powerunit. Do anyone know what voltage the unit puts out?
Best rgds
Same problem here.
P/N: RN 002657
Date: 08-04-11
Judging from the board, would it work if I replace the burned capacitor?
P/N: RN 002657
Date: 08-04-11
Judging from the board, would it work if I replace the burned capacitor?
i can see nobody want to answer. I was able to open the other unit i have and I had a look at the same board and here is the picture. The part i am looking for is D307 and I supposed it's a diode. the code is AN 97. I couldn't find any information. can someone help me with a suggestion and what I can get for replacement . thanks in advance
Sonos will exchange (for fee if out of warranty)
https://www.sonos.com/en-au/contact/contact-options
https://www.sonos.com/en-au/contact/contact-options
My own "3" lasted longer but exhibits the same fault. As it happens I have my own Electronics company and we looked at the PCB (see attached) which has been woefully under-specified and the boards are poorly built. The Bridge rectifier has blown and taken the board and the electrolytic capacitors ( a totally inferior unknown manufacturer) with it! We can repair it but it doesn't say much for the quality of a high end system that has clearly been built to minimum cost
Does anyone know if Sonos have modified the board in newer Play3's?. I've just bought one and this doesn't bode well!.
ahh. what a difference a letter makes 🙂
I have a play 3 too but not sure of the age. Would anyone recommend I proactively check and swap the caps before things go wrong? Anything else need doing at same time? Thanks
Same issue and same number this end ☹️
Same part date, same issue. I'm going to speak nicely to the electronics guys at work.
Hi
Just found my play 3 dead !
So same problem nearly a hole through the PCB next to the caps
I have a done lot of repairs in the past on PSUs with (Bad Caps) so should be an easy one as I also have a lot of soldering experience
my electronics knowledge is pretty basic
Am I right In thinking i can just replace the rectifier bridge and caps next to it ?
If so I’ve just Ordered GBU406 (GBU408 discontinued with RS) and some caps to replace the 400v 33uf ones,
I’ll change these then get back to this forum over the weekend unless anyone can suggest any thing else I need to do in the meantime ?
Thanks
Ian
Just found my play 3 dead !
So same problem nearly a hole through the PCB next to the caps
I have a done lot of repairs in the past on PSUs with (Bad Caps) so should be an easy one as I also have a lot of soldering experience
my electronics knowledge is pretty basic
Am I right In thinking i can just replace the rectifier bridge and caps next to it ?
If so I’ve just Ordered GBU406 (GBU408 discontinued with RS) and some caps to replace the 400v 33uf ones,
I’ll change these then get back to this forum over the weekend unless anyone can suggest any thing else I need to do in the meantime ?
Thanks
Ian
Oh and I chose the GBU406 800v as it’s the closest comparable component spec
I did forget to mention I will be repairing the PCB track from the rectifier to the first cap also
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