Hi,
My Play 3 died the other day and I am just outside my warrenty period 😞 I contacted sonos customer services who did not help me in the slightest. I have now looked at the power supply board and seen that the board around one of the input capacitor has burnt out and or the cap itself.
As customer services won't even sell me a new power board, does anyone have a circuit diagram for this board so i can attempt to repair it myself. ( I am competent with electronics).
P/N: RN-002657 (board number)
Date: 08-04-11
Also has anyone else experienced this fault. I am assuming a power surge has done this.
Many thanks
Jamietaylor13
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Hi, yes that voltage is correct.
Thanks Imagine Luismi
I got it working perfect with the new caps/ rectifyier/small red fuse t2a/ track repair
Great DIY repair
I got it working perfect with the new caps/ rectifyier/small red fuse t2a/ track repair
Great DIY repair
Thanks for your comments, would you be so kind to measure the output voltages? There are one to eight pins, 4 red and four black. Regards,
Hello again, it is clear that you are part of SONOS and that is why you do not give concrete solutions. I have been repairing electronics for many years and I have very clear that this model of SONOS PLAY: 3 was defective and you do not want to give electronic solution.
Userlevel 7
+22
Sonos employees are clearly identified as such.
I have had play:3s around my house for over 5 years and never had trouble with a single one. I even have 2 outdoor in my garage in humid and cold conditions year round.
I have had play:3s around my house for over 5 years and never had trouble with a single one. I even have 2 outdoor in my garage in humid and cold conditions year round.
Does anyone know where we could get a drawing ? PCB diagram?
If possible?
If possible?
Hi imagine-Luismi
In my 3 play 3’i have replaced....
The 3 caps 33uf 400v
The bridge rectifier GBU408 (GBU406)
The small t2a fuse red
All parts from RS COMPONENTS
I will find the part numbers for you to purchase on their site
Also you will need to repair the track from the rectifier to the caps see attached picture
In my 3 play 3’i have replaced....
The 3 caps 33uf 400v
The bridge rectifier GBU408 (GBU406)
The small t2a fuse red
All parts from RS COMPONENTS
I will find the part numbers for you to purchase on their site
Also you will need to repair the track from the rectifier to the caps see attached picture
Hi Guys,
D307 is a 1n4148 diode.
D307 is a 1n4148 diode.
I too have had this fault with my PLAY:3, and upon dismantling it is clear that there is damage also to one of the surface mount diodes. In fact, excatly the same as ovidiu1971's post. I have sourced some new capacitors to replace those, however I am not sure what spec this component is, and wondered whether any of you have had the same issue and if any solution was found? It appears to be D307, and has a code of AN 97 printed on it. As far as I can see, I will have to bridge the track to wherever the diode's anode was connected.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as I cannot find a schematic or circuit diagram anywhere, and the board is quite badly charred!! :)
Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as I cannot find a schematic or circuit diagram anywhere, and the board is quite badly charred!! :)
jamietaylor13,
First post! Welcome to the forums.
SONOS does not support DIY service in any way. I know that this policy chaffs some, but it probably eliminates some legal risk and saves a lot of time supporting DIY's of various skill levels. SONOS is not unique for establishing this policy.
Burnt traces and capacitors are usually the victim of a larger drama.
First post! Welcome to the forums.
SONOS does not support DIY service in any way. I know that this policy chaffs some, but it probably eliminates some legal risk and saves a lot of time supporting DIY's of various skill levels. SONOS is not unique for establishing this policy.
Burnt traces and capacitors are usually the victim of a larger drama.
jamietaylor13,
Thanks for the follow up.
Did you monitor the temperature of C306 for a while after the repair? I doubt that the original capacitor was the generic type that one would expect to find at Radio Shack. If the ripple current is beyond the replacement capacitor's capability, you'll be repeating this exercise again.
I expect that there are small capacitors across the bridge rectifier. Did these look OK? If you have a second PLAY:3 and a portable AM radio, place the radio near the repaired PLAY:3 and compare the emissions with a never repaired PLAY:3 (this is tricky, be sure to use identical relative positioning for each test) If emission from the repaired PLAY:3 is substantially higher than the never repaired unit, be suspicious. Of course you could have more emissions because of a simple re-assembly issue, but there might be more.
Thanks for the follow up.
Did you monitor the temperature of C306 for a while after the repair? I doubt that the original capacitor was the generic type that one would expect to find at Radio Shack. If the ripple current is beyond the replacement capacitor's capability, you'll be repeating this exercise again.
I expect that there are small capacitors across the bridge rectifier. Did these look OK? If you have a second PLAY:3 and a portable AM radio, place the radio near the repaired PLAY:3 and compare the emissions with a never repaired PLAY:3 (this is tricky, be sure to use identical relative positioning for each test) If emission from the repaired PLAY:3 is substantially higher than the never repaired unit, be suspicious. Of course you could have more emissions because of a simple re-assembly issue, but there might be more.
Not that we're aware of, and some of us have been hanging out around these forums for a number of years. We're pretty familiar with the main failure modes for each unit, and PSU burn-out is not one of them. In fact, I'm not even sure that there's any consistent pattern of failures for PLAY:3 at all.
Each unit has its own failure signature and signatures vary over the life of the unit. Actually, repairing units (of any type or manufacturer) when something turns color is easier because this is a broad hint about what's wrong. (It not as much fun if the printed circuit board is damaged) The burnt part is usually a victim, not the cause, but it is still a helpful hint. The wost type of failure is a low duty cycle intermittent. It takes forever to locate the failure and verify the fix. Once the signature is known, if one sees enough of this intermittent model, you'll just apply the fix whenever one of these units is encountered.
Servicing is quite similar to a hospital. After a quick walk through it's easy to come away thinking that "everyone" is sick -- and they might all have the same problem. Even if a very small percentage of a given model fails, there can be quite a pile of a popular item in the national service center.
Servicing is quite similar to a hospital. After a quick walk through it's easy to come away thinking that "everyone" is sick -- and they might all have the same problem. Even if a very small percentage of a given model fails, there can be quite a pile of a popular item in the national service center.
Good that some DIYers' could fix the above problems. I did something similar once in the days when computer motherboards had components tat wern't surface-mounted. I dgress though. My point is that the "expensive" look- at costs are not that. Sonos REPLACES your gear for that price. I had a 6 year old ZP100 die and received a new Connect for a fraction of the new prcie OK so I lost 2 ethernet ports but I still only use one. So I am I grumbling? No Way! I could not be happier with SONOS support. I later bought 2x Play1s' Which I thought sounded great the hearing of the EU price hikes bought a Sub. Now I am over the moon. And no I dont't need a headphone socket on my gear.
jamietaylor13's fix worked in my sonos play 3.
Replace the exploded cap and wire the + lead of the bridge-rectifier to the + of the replaced capacitor.
Works perfectly
Replace the exploded cap and wire the + lead of the bridge-rectifier to the + of the replaced capacitor.
Works perfectly
Userlevel 1
Is there a problem with a batch of Play:3's as mine has just stopped working., It has that distinctive burnt electronics smell wafting from within.. I have a support call open with SONOS so I shall await their response before cracking it open and trying to repair.
I wonder, should they issue some kind of recall as there could potentially be a fire risk to one of these units?
I wonder, should they issue some kind of recall as there could potentially be a fire risk to one of these units?
Userlevel 7
+22
I guess if you're concerned about its safety you should take it the Trading Standards (UK) or whichever is the relevant safety body in your region.
But I would say that just because something fails in such a way as to generate heat and discolouration does not in and of itself self imply the whole was at risk of fire.
But I would say that just because something fails in such a way as to generate heat and discolouration does not in and of itself self imply the whole was at risk of fire.
Sadly I've replaced the capacitor but my circuit board is damaged and shorting, it's getting beyond my meagre skills to repair.
Hey guys did this fault cause the main RCD for you house to trip when it started
Userlevel 7
+22
I don't think 3-4 people make it a common theme.
Userlevel 7
+22
5 year old unit, many things could contribute to a power issue.
Userlevel 7
+22
Most rarely happen. Don't know actual cause.
Userlevel 7
+22
Most rarely happen. Don't know actual cause. Maybe that part is susceptible to power surges.
First post! Welcome to the forums.
SONOS does not support DIY service in any way. I know that this policy chaffs some, but it probably eliminates some legal risk and saves a lot of time supporting DIY's of various skill levels. SONOS is not unique for establishing this policy.
Burnt traces and capacitors are usually the victim of a larger drama.
Hi my sonos 3 fell and the transformer on the power board snapped off the base, do you know of a replacement transformer I can use?
Thank you.
Userlevel 1
RN-002657
Date: 08-04-11
Great to read that it may be possible to fix it by replacing the capacitors. I am not an electronics expert but I know how to do basic soldering. Could you please recommend some good replacement parts to get? eg. from RS:
@sonos I know you don't recommend opening the Play 3 but it is 5 years old and you will not replace it anyway. My only alternative is to throw it out and buy a new one so I might as well try to fix it first....
Thanks in advance
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