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Unable to add my Amp to the network ...

  • 22 October 2023
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R
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Hello,

Our Sonos system consist of 2 Boosts, 5 Connect Amp compatible with S2, 1 Amp and 1 Arc.  The Connect Amps are distributed in the home while the Arc and Amp are in the living room connected to our television.  Boosts are needed to extend the Sonos network.

I recently realized that a part of our home internet network was not working.  Some ethernet connections needed to be worked on.  I had to make changes in the wiring and the connections.

I suspect that part of my problems were created when adding a TP-Link Deco mesh system on my home network to have a better signal in all our home that is not ethernet wired entirely.

So I played around with all the wires and cables of our internet and Sonos networks.  When reconnecting everything, my Amp was not recognized anymore on my Sonos network and my Arc’s button were not responsive anymore.  I don’t know if the 2 problems are caused by the same problem.

So I tried very hard to have my Amp recognize by the network.  I also tried resetting it to factory settings many times with no success.  Later, it did recognize the Amp by was never able to add it to the Sonos system.  

This morning, I moved the Amp near my main Boost.  I reset it another time to it’s factory setting.  This time the Amp was recognized and added to the system, but Sonos said it was unable to add it to displayed configuration of the Sonos app.  I tried once more with no success.

Over the years, I never had problems configuring or making changes to my Sonos configuration with my older S2 compatible Connect Amp.  I never had any problem.  Everything was a breeze.  I was always surprised how simple the Sonos setup was taken care of.  

Since the newer Amp, configuration has been tricky, quite complicated and not straightforward anymore.  Is it my fault or caused by our more complicated internet network or is the new Amp more flaky, I don’t know.  One thing is sure, I have done a-lot of work and I am at the end of my personal options.

Can anyone help me going further fixing my 2 problems ?

Thanks in advance. 

 

 

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Best answer by rlesperance 27 October 2023, 03:03

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93 replies

Ken_Griffiths

I will always remain baffled by the Apple TV, wired to the 3rd switch and somehow using the Helix router subnet, but that’s perhaps one of life’s mysteries.🤷‍♂️ 

The TP-Link router block on the devices was never obvious from the things posted - so glad that Sonos Staff sorted it, otherwise we may have been left scratching our heads over this one.

ratty

Ratty ... I had 3 blocked devices from within my Deco app .. not the Sonos app.  Since the Deco acts as a router, the blocks prevented the signals flow through.

Ah, I see. A slightly overzealous bit of ‘security’ then. 

R
Userlevel 2
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Ratty ... I had 3 blocked devices from within my Deco app .. not the Sonos app.  Since the Deco acts as a router, the blocks prevented the signals flow through.

ratty

What is this"block" of which you speak? A MAC blacklist or whitelist? The lack of an accessible 2.4GHz SSID? What steps were taken to "unblock" things?

Ken_Griffiths

Ah glad to hear that you and Sonos Staff have got things sorted @rlesperance, that’s the main thing and always happy to try to help. Thanks for letting us know the outcome too. 👍 

R
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Hello glad helpers …. I just wanted to make a follow up on my case.  Calling Sonos helped to focus on the hardware problem.  

The Sonos Amp was not connecting because it was blocked from the TP-Link Deco system.  Sorry to say that.  I don’t know why and how it was blocked but once unblocked, it simply joined the network smoothly and simply as all Sonos devices always did.  I learned that the Sonos Amp can self diagnostic iitself by displaying different color signals.  

I I had 3 blocked devices.  Not sure what they all were yet.  But now that they are unblocked, everything got back to Sonos normal and simplicity.  Even the Apple TV (salle familliale) connected to the Deco system.

Ken …  I also called Videotron.  I was able to have my other Apple TV (not shown on the diagram) joined the Deco network through B2 and thus could disable the repeater like you suggested.  I did not convert my ISP’s router to a bridge … yet.

So thanks again for being supportive.

 

P.S.  The diagram has been updated.

R
Userlevel 2
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The Apple TV is a still mystery.  I checked the cables.  I also disconnected/connected the ATV and the connection to IR isn’t active anymore.   If I leave it disconnected it connects automatically to S1, where the signal is very good.  As of now, I will leave the ATV out of the problem.

Ken … Still looking for the 2 items you asked about.

I would like to concentrate on getting the AMP connected and to fix the problem with the sound control buttons on the ARC.

Here is working time, so I will not be available for a few hours.  I will give Sonos a call at 16H00 (4H00PM ET) and get back to you glad helpers.

Ken_Griffiths

I played around with the Apple TV settings - it’s interface usually shows when it’s on WiFi or is Ethernet-linked - see attached images from my ATV settings. They demonstrate the device wired/wireless etc. with or without a wireless SSID configured. 

The plugging/unplugging of the cable is what switches things - so perhaps just check back where the cable and switches lead back to - as I really can’t see why that device is showing are wired back to the Helix router - maybe double check its network settings again too, just in case.🤷‍♂️

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ratty

Does the Apple TV have the Helix WiFi details configured? It may be wired to S3 but if the connection is flaky it could be flipping over to the Helix WiFi if it knows about it. 

Ken_Griffiths

By the way, what are the two wireless devices connected to your IR router that I highlighted earlier - one is on the 2.4 GHz band and the other is on the 5 Ghz band?

Ken_Griffiths

Your network topology diagram (on paper) looks fine to me - obviously the fact the Apple TV screenshot posted earlier is showing as wired to your IR router is (still) of some concern to me as you show that as wired to a 3rd switch.

I’m assuming here that you only have one Apple TV.

Theres nothing I can see in the diagram that would provide the connection between IR and that 3rd switch - it would be nice to try to resolve that.

What will help is a screenshot of your ‘Settings/System/About My System’ to see the ip addresses currently in use by Sonosnet and s screenshot of your WiFi networks from the App (if any are present) that’s in ‘Settings/System/Networks/Manage Networks’ - I need that to see if some Sonos devices might be using your old helix WiFi (mixed mode).

Meanwhile do as @ratty mentioned earlier wire the Amp temporarily to Boost 1 - ensure it’s in a factory reset state (flashing green light) and in the App (with all other Sonos devices showing) goto the iPhone S2 App ‘Settings/System/Add Product’ and just see what happens in that case when you follow the onscreen instructions.

Ken_Griffiths

It’s 01.00am here where I am @rlesperance so will take a look first thing in the morning.👍

R
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For the diagram, click here.  Check again, there has been many versions.

All solid link are confirmed has wired.  The wireless links are dashed and what I suppose they are.  I don’t have any clue about the actual network working in the background.  I suppose that you can help confirm that.

 

The Sonos device, SD1, is the AMP I am unable to add to the Sonos network.  SD1 and SD2 could be, if possible, wired to S3 just beside and are duplicated in the diagram. 

For the Apple TV, the device confirms that it is connected to the IR.  To me it is connected to the S3 and is duplicated in the diagram.

R
Userlevel 2
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Please wait for the diagram.  It is really important to be sure what are the suggestions to be implemented.  There is to many «ifs and don’ts».  

Ken_Griffiths

Note, there is the option to put the IR Helix router into ‘Bridge’ mode - I would suggest you go onto consider doing that at some point, particularly if you plan to not use the Helix extender in the future (recommended).

There are three products currently showing as connected to the IR router… one is presumably the wired DPH, but not sure what the other two are - they are just connecting over the (Helix) WiFi? You might want to move the two devices at some point over to your Deco WiFi. See attached.

2 Attachments
Ken_Griffiths

> I would maybe take the helix router document down, as it shows it’s password - perhaps edit that out and repost it.

There is no password.  Just download the folder/documents.

I mean it shows the ‘Helix’ WiFi password - it’s best to edit it out the document.

> So did you remove the ‘Helix’ SSID from your Sonos App network settings as mentioned in my earlier post.

How do I do that ?

See this link…https://support.sonos.com/en-us/article/remove-a-wifi-network-from-your-sonos-system

> A diagram/drawing of your network topology would be helpful, if you can still do that.

The diagram is on the works.

Thankyou 👍

Ken_Griffiths

Ah looking back through IR router screenshots - the Ethernet connected Sonos devices are in the ‘offline’ device list - so it might be okay. It just shows they were once connected to that router. So that’s okay.👍

I see its WiFi SSID is ‘Helix’ so that’s good too. Just need the network diagram.  

R
Userlevel 2
Badge +3

> I would maybe take the helix router document down, as it shows it’s password - perhaps edit that out and repost it.

There is no password.  Just download the folder/documents.

> So did you remove the ‘Helix’ SSID from your Sonos App network settings as mentioned in my earlier post.

How do I do that ?

> A diagram/drawing of your network topology would be helpful, if you can still do that.

The diagram is on the works.

Ken_Griffiths

In fact on second-glance the Sonos devices are showing as Ethernet connected (via the Boost, I presume?) and getting their IP addresses from the IR router - so the Boost-1 cannot be wired on the LAN side of the PDH (Deco Router)? - We need your diagram to see the full topology of your setup - it’s seems clear something is wrong with how you have the devices wired at the moment.

 

Ken_Griffiths

I would maybe take the helix router document down, as it shows it’s password - perhaps edit that out and repost it.

The things that are immediately clear is that some Sonos players are connected to that IR  router - rather than your TP-Link deco router. See attached:

So did you remove the ‘Helix’ SSID from your Sonos App network settings as mentioned in my earlier post.

A diagram/drawing of your network topology would be helpful, if you can still do that.

 

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R
Userlevel 2
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As a starter ..  see my ISP (Hélix) and Déco configurations by clicking here.  If some sensitive info is displayed, please advise me.

For the network layout, can you tell me where I can find infos on the symbols to use for router, switch, and the like ?

 

Ken_Griffiths

It has made me wonder if the wiring/setup mentioned by the OP is perhaps described incorrectly and that the wired Boost 1 is somehow using the IR subnet too alongside the Apple TV - it’s still a bit of a confused picture, but hopefully a clear ‘detailed’ diagram from @rlesperance later will quickly throw some light on where the problems may lie.

Ken_Griffiths

The WiFi’s standards/security aren’t especially relevant as the system’s in SonosNet mode.

I thought the WiFi backward compatibility was required for device setup - but that’s fair enough. Thanks again.

This however raises a flag.

As for the fact that my Apple TV (ATV) connects to the ISP router (10.0.0.1) instead of the Deco network, I have to add that the ethernet cable in which the ATV is connected originates from D1 before connecting to GES3 in which the ATV connects to (D1 → GES3 → ATV ).  To me that seems to confirm that the ATV is able to decipher what are the available networks and that it is able to choose my ISP’s network instead of Deco’s.

The ATV doesn’t get to ‘choose’. And if the topology is D1 → GES3 → ATV with GES3 on the LAN side of D1 why is it getting a 10.x.x.x IP instead of 192.168.x.x??

It’s beginning to sound as though there are two DHCP servers on the same segment. As if D1 is either being bridged past or is wired incorrectly? 

The topology needs to be documented and thoroughly verified. 

I did wonder (and asked previously) if there was a direct cable link from IR to GES-1 that might be causing that - it’s certainly odd that the Apple TV is cabled to the IR subnet.🤔

ratty

The WiFi’s standards/security aren’t especially relevant as the system’s in SonosNet mode.

 

This however raises a flag.

As for the fact that my Apple TV (ATV) connects to the ISP router (10.0.0.1) instead of the Deco network, I have to add that the ethernet cable in which the ATV is connected originates from D1 before connecting to GES3 in which the ATV connects to (D1 → GES3 → ATV ).  To me that seems to confirm that the ATV is able to decipher what are the available networks and that it is able to choose my ISP’s network instead of Deco’s.

The ATV doesn’t get to ‘choose’. And if the topology is D1 → GES3 → ATV with GES3 on the LAN side of D1 why is it getting a 10.x.x.x IP instead of 192.168.x.x??

It’s beginning to sound as though there are two DHCP servers on the same segment. As if D1 is either being bridged past or is wired incorrectly? 

The topology needs to be documented and thoroughly verified. 

Ken_Griffiths

Note we only need their names and not anything else, like passwords etc.

Whilst in the pages, you may want to note that the 2.4Ghz band needs to be 802.11b/g/n compatible and I suggest perhaps using a security mode of WPA2 AES too for the time being.

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