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Sonos unstable to the point of useless - even after adding a Boost

  • 27 February 2022
  • 40 replies
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A
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Hi all, 

I have two Sonos One SL and two IKEA Symphony bookshelf speakers running in my current, limited setup. Recently, I began experiencing problems with sound falling off some speakers for a few seconds, then coming back - and then falling off again randomly. 

As I expected that this was due to distance / walls etc. giving the network a hard time, I went out and purchased a Boost. This is now connected with a cable to my main access point (that is again cabled to my main router in the attic). 

I tried the tools available for troubleshooting - e.g. the network matrix at something like this address: http://192.168.0.207:1400/support/review 
From my Boost, connections to all speakers is green -  which I presume means that the Sonos network-coverage and communication is fine. 

However, many times during the day, speakers will still be falling off. Sometimes one of the Symfonisk will play, while the Ones are still - then they come back randomly, and then one of the Symfonisk speakers fall out, to return again a bit later. 

It’s incredibly frustrating and renders the system virtually useless! Also, I don’t assume that this is due to a bad internet connection, as Spotify keeps playing - just only on some of the speakers. 

I tried changing network channels many times, but it doesn’t seem to make any difference. 

Does anyone have an idea of what can be done for more stability?

Thanks in advance, 
/Bo

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Best answer by AjTrek1 27 February 2022, 23:33

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40 replies

AjTrek1
Userlevel 7

I assume you are using the ATC because it allows you backup your Mac wirelessly. Apple fully disbanded the wireless group responsible for the ATC in 2016 and stopped producing it in 2018. Apple still provides limited support for the  ATC but is not offering any updates or replacements. 

To draw a parralell to a Sonos product you might consider the ATC the same as the Sonos Bridge. While both products work in some scenarios they are both obsolete and can be problematic. My suggestion would be to replace the ATC with a modem provided by your ISP.  Your Linksys would then be your router.  You can still backup your Mac with Time Machine to an external HD. 

Time Machine when connected with an external HD still works automatically. If an external HD is connected to an iMac or MacMini it will stay plugged in at all times. However, even if you are using an external HD with a Macbook; that you may sometimes move about, you can still eject the drive even if it’s performing a backup. When the drive is reconnected it will perform another incremental backup automatically.

All said my recommendation is to ditch the ATC. FYI, I stopped using ATC before 2016 as they were not as flexible as stand-a-lone routers by other manufacturers.

Note: To complete your setup let your ISP provide the modem and connect it to your Linksys router. If your ISP provides a router/modem combo place the router portion in “bridge mode” and let your Linksys provide the WiFi. The Boost would wired to your Linksys in either scenario. 

Together Everyone Achieves More = T.E.A.M.
A
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Thank you for clarifying that - I wasn’t even aware that Apple stopped supporting ATC. We actually have network trouble regularly (I can usually hear my son shouting at the network when it happens ; ) and it would most probably be a good idea to update our setup, then. I realize that the ATC makes the system more complex, and might be faulty at times. 

However, our ISP-router is in our attic - connected via a switch and cables to network-outlets in the house. One of the working network outlets is in our living room, and this is where I connected the ATC to get better coverage in the living areas of the house. 

What would I use instead, if not the ATC? Another wireless access point that can act as a bridge? Maybe even a mesh-setup of some kind? (we have a basement where the current network coverage is bad - maybe a mesh setup could help with that?)

Just to clarify; the Linksys router is the device provided by our ISP - and that sits in our attic. I don’t have other routers or access points, apart from the ATC. 

Thanks again. 

AjTrek1
Userlevel 7

Hi

From your explanation I gather that your ISP is also providing the modem. A Mesh setup may help in your situation. The Wifi for the Linksys router would have to be turned off.

Whatever Mesh system you choose the Main node would connect to one of your centrally located ethernet ports coming from the switch *. You would not connect any of the satellites to an ethernet port. They would be placed strategically to extend your WiFi coverage. The Sonos Boost would be connected to the Main node.

A four (4) pack Mesh system may be your best option. Click here for an example; although a bit on the expensive side

​​​​​​​​​​​​​​ * I've never been a fan of placing a router in the attic as it just creates another layer for the WiFi signal to pass through. However, not knowing your home layout that may be the most practical option. That said you could place the Main node for the Mesh and the Sonos Boost connected to it in the attic.

Together Everyone Achieves More = T.E.A.M.
J

A mesh is certainly a possibility, ss @AjTrek1 explained.

I would also consider getting a good router / access point, put the Linksys in modem only mode (wireless and DHCP disabled), and connect the new router in router mode by Ethernet to the Linksys.

Wire the Boost to the new router.

A
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Thank you for helping out : ) I’ll get a mesh package tomorrow, and see how that works - and consider getting a good, dedicated rooter as well.

Sonos is much more stable now, btw - I’m sure that it’s a combination of less active wireless networks (I had a guest network running as well, so have now cut down from eight to four - counting 2.4 and 5GHz networks), better separation between channels (Sonos now on channel one, with wireless on channel 11), and proper distance between the wireless bridge and the boost. 

AjTrek1
Userlevel 7

@All-about-sound-dk

If you get a Mesh package the Main node is a router. The Main node just has to be connected to your modem. There’s no need to purchase another router.

Just so I understand your equipment provided by your ISP…are the Router and Moden separates or combined into one unit?

Also, what are you referring to as a “wireless bridge”?

Together Everyone Achieves More = T.E.A.M.
A
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Well - it all reflects that I’m not that familiar with setting up networks ; ) 
The ISP unit is one unit only - so router and modem in one, I assume. 

With a wireless bridge, I only meant a router that’s setup to act as a bridge only. So, forwarding trafic only, I guess?

But, based on your response, it should be fine to get the mesh package, connect the main node to the ISP unit, and then expand the mesh from there. 

AjTrek1
Userlevel 7

@All-about-sound-dk

No problem...these networking issues can be confusing :relaxed:

Thanks for the clarification about your ISP provided equipment. If you look at the suggested Mesh package I recommended here (and scroll through the pictures) you’ll see that the Main node is a Router with a port in yellow called a WAN (Wide Area Network) for your ISP’s modem.

The other ports on the Main node (Router) are called LAN’s (Local Area Network). Those can accept the Ethernet cables running from your switch in the Attic. You might be able to eliminate the switch altogether depending upon how many rooms are connected via a wall port. In any event you can leave the switch as is and connect it to the Main node (Router) via one of the LAN’s; if you wish.

All that need be done if you purchase a Mesh similar to the one I suggested is to have your ISP place the router portion of their equipment into “bridge mode” to stop it’s Wi-Fi. Then connect the remianing modem portion to the port on the Main node reserved for “existing modem”. From there you can start setting up your Mesh satellites to expand your WiFi coverage. FYI, the Sonos Boost would be plugged into one of the LAN’s on the Main node (Router).

In the end you would have the following equipment/connections:

  1. ISP Router/Modem with router portion in Bridge mode
  2. The Mesh Main Node (router) connected to the ISP modem
  3. Your switch connected to a LAN port on the Main node (router)
  4. Sonos Boost connected to a LAN port on the Main node (Router)
  5. One, two, three or four satellites distributed throughout your home to complete the Mesh setup

I hope this explains things. If not let us know . We’re here to help! :slight_smile:

EDIT: Here’s an alternative solution by the same company specifically designed for home use vs business. The setup principle is the same. Click here.

Together Everyone Achieves More = T.E.A.M.
A
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Thank you for an excellent summary - and for the suggestion re mesh products. I’ve found a TP-link equivalent (in another and cheaper class, for sure, but should be ok) that I’ll try and go with: 
https://www.tp-link.com/dk/home-networking/deco/deco-m5/ 

Kind regards, 
/Bo

A
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Hi again, 

I’ve now invested in a Google Nest-set with one main node and two satelites. The main node is in my living room, and, in general, coverage is very good (8-900 MBps in the main living area).

I’ve plugged my Sonos Boost to the main node, and have attached the device to the wall, high up, and about 1 meter from the main node / router. 

I have two Sonos One in the living room. They’re about 5-6 meters away from the Boost, and with nothing blocking between them. 

My IKEA Symfonisk is in the kitchen, which is next to the living room, but with a wall blocking the view from the Boost. 

Sonos is running on channel 1. I use a Wifi checker tool to see what channels wifis are using, and nothing else is using that channel. 

Now, in general the system works better. However, I still experience a lot of dropouts on the living room Ones - but, curiously, not on the Symfonisk in the kitchen. 

Especially, whenever I change song, or start a song over again, one or two of the Ones in the living room will be quiet for 1-3 seconds, and then catch up. In the meantime, I can hear the speaker in the kitchen playing. Sometimes dropouts will happen randomly, though - no real pattern in those. 

The dropouts are really frustrating, and I don’t really know what else I can do to optimise the system? Maybe the Boost is just making things worse? With the wifi more stable now, perhaps a better option would be to ditch the Boost, and just run everything on Wifi?

To be honest, I don’t understand why this has to be this hard to get working properly. 

Thanks, 
/Bo

A
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And, btw, on another note, I have a Hue bridge as well - which was under suspicion for adding interference. I tried placing the bridge in the attic, together with my ISP router, and this works like a charm - no connection issues at all to the lights in the house. 

J

Using SonosNet is generally the best option with mesh systems, so I would stick with the Boost 

First thing - please confirm that on the iSP router, wireless is still disabled.

If you have added your Google Nest wifi credentials to Sonos please remove them.

Please check which wireless channels the Philips Hue Bridge is using. These are Zigbee channels not WiFi, so are numbered differently. (I can't remember how you check this, but I have done it. I am away from my system at the moment but will remind myself when I get home. Or you could Google it.) We need to ensure that the Hue frequency is not interfering with SonosNet- Zigbee won't generally show up on a WiFi analyser.

Why is it so hard to get this to work? Well, up to now mostly because of your previous suboptimal network set up, to be honest.

Sonos requires multiple devices to communicate constantly with each other. This places much greater demands on a network than the other clients on your network (lights included) so the network needs to be set up robustly. It is far more than a question of network speed 

 

J

Further thought. Have you power cycled every device on your network since installing Google? If not then you must do this to totally refresh the IP addresses. This is not Sonos-specific.

A
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Thanks again for swift response - and you’re completely right; it’s more the part about building a stable network without interference that’s the hard part. But again, I believe it’s getting there now - and at least, the mesh wifi seems a lot more stable and powerful than my old, ATC-based one. 

I’ll figure out how to check the ZigBee-channel and let you know how it goes. 

 

J

To see / change the Zigbee channel in the Hue app go to settings > Hue bridges > i > change Zigbee channel .

This should be useful

https://support.metageek.com/hc/en-us/articles/203845040-ZigBee-and-Wi-Fi-Coexistence

If you currently have an overlap you might change the Hue or Sonos channels.

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