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Sonos unstable to the point of useless - even after adding a Boost

  • 27 February 2022
  • 40 replies
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A
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Hi all, 

I have two Sonos One SL and two IKEA Symphony bookshelf speakers running in my current, limited setup. Recently, I began experiencing problems with sound falling off some speakers for a few seconds, then coming back - and then falling off again randomly. 

As I expected that this was due to distance / walls etc. giving the network a hard time, I went out and purchased a Boost. This is now connected with a cable to my main access point (that is again cabled to my main router in the attic). 

I tried the tools available for troubleshooting - e.g. the network matrix at something like this address: http://192.168.0.207:1400/support/review 
From my Boost, connections to all speakers is green -  which I presume means that the Sonos network-coverage and communication is fine. 

However, many times during the day, speakers will still be falling off. Sometimes one of the Symfonisk will play, while the Ones are still - then they come back randomly, and then one of the Symfonisk speakers fall out, to return again a bit later. 

It’s incredibly frustrating and renders the system virtually useless! Also, I don’t assume that this is due to a bad internet connection, as Spotify keeps playing - just only on some of the speakers. 

I tried changing network channels many times, but it doesn’t seem to make any difference. 

Does anyone have an idea of what can be done for more stability?

Thanks in advance, 
/Bo

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Best answer by AjTrek1 27 February 2022, 23:33

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40 replies

J

To see / change the Zigbee channel in the Hue app go to settings > Hue bridges > i > change Zigbee channel .

This should be useful

https://support.metageek.com/hc/en-us/articles/203845040-ZigBee-and-Wi-Fi-Coexistence

If you currently have an overlap you might change the Hue or Sonos channels.

J

Where I would like to be at the moment is:

Linksys wireless off. 

ATC wireless on channel 1, 6 or 11

Sonos set to different channel from ATC

Hue Bridge unplugged

Hue, Boost and ATC physically well separated.

Edit: OK you are there.  Can we look at matrix again please?

Edit please confirm channels

AjTrek1
Userlevel 7

Hi

From your explanation I gather that your ISP is also providing the modem. A Mesh setup may help in your situation. The Wifi for the Linksys router would have to be turned off.

Whatever Mesh system you choose the Main node would connect to one of your centrally located ethernet ports coming from the switch *. You would not connect any of the satellites to an ethernet port. They would be placed strategically to extend your WiFi coverage. The Sonos Boost would be connected to the Main node.

A four (4) pack Mesh system may be your best option. Click here for an example; although a bit on the expensive side

​​​​​​​​​​​​​​ * I've never been a fan of placing a router in the attic as it just creates another layer for the WiFi signal to pass through. However, not knowing your home layout that may be the most practical option. That said you could place the Main node for the Mesh and the Sonos Boost connected to it in the attic.

Together Everyone Achieves More = T.E.A.M.
J

A mesh is certainly a possibility, ss @AjTrek1 explained.

I would also consider getting a good router / access point, put the Linksys in modem only mode (wireless and DHCP disabled), and connect the new router in router mode by Ethernet to the Linksys.

Wire the Boost to the new router.

AjTrek1
Userlevel 7

@All-about-sound-dk

No problem...these networking issues can be confusing :relaxed:

Thanks for the clarification about your ISP provided equipment. If you look at the suggested Mesh package I recommended here (and scroll through the pictures) you’ll see that the Main node is a Router with a port in yellow called a WAN (Wide Area Network) for your ISP’s modem.

The other ports on the Main node (Router) are called LAN’s (Local Area Network). Those can accept the Ethernet cables running from your switch in the Attic. You might be able to eliminate the switch altogether depending upon how many rooms are connected via a wall port. In any event you can leave the switch as is and connect it to the Main node (Router) via one of the LAN’s; if you wish.

All that need be done if you purchase a Mesh similar to the one I suggested is to have your ISP place the router portion of their equipment into “bridge mode” to stop it’s Wi-Fi. Then connect the remianing modem portion to the port on the Main node reserved for “existing modem”. From there you can start setting up your Mesh satellites to expand your WiFi coverage. FYI, the Sonos Boost would be plugged into one of the LAN’s on the Main node (Router).

In the end you would have the following equipment/connections:

  1. ISP Router/Modem with router portion in Bridge mode
  2. The Mesh Main Node (router) connected to the ISP modem
  3. Your switch connected to a LAN port on the Main node (router)
  4. Sonos Boost connected to a LAN port on the Main node (Router)
  5. One, two, three or four satellites distributed throughout your home to complete the Mesh setup

I hope this explains things. If not let us know . We’re here to help! :slight_smile:

EDIT: Here’s an alternative solution by the same company specifically designed for home use vs business. The setup principle is the same. Click here.

Together Everyone Achieves More = T.E.A.M.
A
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Thank you for an excellent summary - and for the suggestion re mesh products. I’ve found a TP-link equivalent (in another and cheaper class, for sure, but should be ok) that I’ll try and go with: 
https://www.tp-link.com/dk/home-networking/deco/deco-m5/ 

Kind regards, 
/Bo

J

Using SonosNet is generally the best option with mesh systems, so I would stick with the Boost 

First thing - please confirm that on the iSP router, wireless is still disabled.

If you have added your Google Nest wifi credentials to Sonos please remove them.

Please check which wireless channels the Philips Hue Bridge is using. These are Zigbee channels not WiFi, so are numbered differently. (I can't remember how you check this, but I have done it. I am away from my system at the moment but will remind myself when I get home. Or you could Google it.) We need to ensure that the Hue frequency is not interfering with SonosNet- Zigbee won't generally show up on a WiFi analyser.

Why is it so hard to get this to work? Well, up to now mostly because of your previous suboptimal network set up, to be honest.

Sonos requires multiple devices to communicate constantly with each other. This places much greater demands on a network than the other clients on your network (lights included) so the network needs to be set up robustly. It is far more than a question of network speed 

 

J

Further thought. Have you power cycled every device on your network since installing Google? If not then you must do this to totally refresh the IP addresses. This is not Sonos-specific.

J

Hi.  Would you be able to post the network matrix please?  You may wish to obscure the MAC addresses.

Other than your router (please state make and model) what other network devices are there?  You refer to an access point.

 

J

Whatever the matrix shows, i suggest you wire the Boost to the router instead, allow system to reconfigure for a couple of minutes.  Then rerun the matrix and post it.

A
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Hi again, 

Sure thing - the matrix is attached below. The main router (which I don’t remember the make of - probably Linksys) is cabled to an Apple Time capsule that creates the main Wifi for my home. The Boost is then connected via cable to one of the outgoing RJ45-ports on the Time capsule. 

There are other devices on the network (my son’s PS4, my daugters’ iPads, phones, an Apple TV occasionally), but as I understand it, the Boost will create a dedicated Sonos Wifi for the speakers only?

If I listen to e.g. Spotify - or even Qobuz in Hi-res - directly on my phone, my connection never drops. This only happens when I play through Sonos (and it doesn’t seem that the connection drops - rather, speakers drop off). 
 

 

A
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Still wired to the Time capsule, and not directly to the router (which is in the attic). I can try that, but this would require me to split the signal between the Boost and the Time Capsule (and I would need a switch or similar for that). 

A
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I could put the Boost in the attic, but that would add a lot to the distance to speakers?

A
Badge +1

Hmm - just updated the network matrix, and now the Boost turned red. What could that mean?
 

 

J

For the moment pls ignore my suggestion to wire to router.

Is the wifi switched on on both the Linksys and ATC?  Which of these devices acts as DHCP server?

Is anything other than the ATC wired to the Linksys?

Is the ATC in Bridge mode (if that is possible)?

J

Hmm - just updated the network matrix, and now the Boost turned red. What could that mean?
 

 

Wireless interference.  The Boost may be too close to the ATC, or there may be another source of interference nearby.  Any other wireless systems or significant electrical gear?

The matrix is just a snapshot.  Intermittent interference is a possible candidate.

A
Badge +1

For the moment pls ignore my suggestion to wire to router.

Is the wifi switched on on both the Linksys and ATC?  Which of these devices acts as DHCP server?

Is anything other than the ATC wired to the Linksys?

Is the ATC in Bridge mode (if that is possible)?

Nothing else is wired to the Linksys, but the Wifi is turned on there - for which reason, there’s several Wifis available in the house. I guess the Linksys acts as DHCP, but I’m not sure of that. 

I had one of the One SLs right next to the ATC - and I had the Boost right in between them. This may be the cause of the interference - but I’ve moved them now, and it’s still very, very unstable. 

A
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I have a Phillips Hue-bridge running as well - I don’t know if that could cause any interference?

J

I have a Phillips Hue-bridge running as well - I don’t know if that could cause any interference?

It could.  Easiest is to unplug it and then rerun the matrix.  What wireless channel is the ATC on?  What about the Boost?   You should ideally ensure that the Hue Bridge, the ATC and the Boost are at least 3 feet from each other.  

The Hue uses Zigbee rather than WiFi, but for the moment let’s take that out of the equatuon.

J

Turn the wireless off on the Linksys.

Edit: in fact please confirm ATC is in bridge mode.  If so then wifi on Linksys can probably be left on.

A
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The ATC is in bridge mode. I will turn off the wireless on the Linksys. 

A
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We have extenders running elsewhere in the house - but I assume they’ll all just work as extenders, even if they create their own Wifis. 

J

The ATC is in bridge mode. I will turn off the wireless on the Linksys. 

It should be ok if ATC is in bridge mode, but let’s see what happens with it off

J

We have extenders running elsewhere in the house - but I assume they’ll all just work as extenders, even if they create their own Wifis. 

The channels used could still create interference. But let’s leave that a moment and take stock

A
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I turned off the Linksys wifi now. The ATC, the Hue bridge, and the Sonos Boost are about 3 feet from each other. Fallouts on either speaker is still as bad as ever : (

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