How to put OS 1 back into a Connect?

  • 4 July 2021
  • 8 replies
  • 123 views
C

So I have a Connect and a Play1.  I got help from support yesterday upgrading my Play1 to an S2 and my connect and Play1 were working too.  Today the Connect wont work with the S1 application.  I did a hard reset and tried to install it as a new system. It works well until I need to join the SONOS network.  At that point my iphone does join the SONOS network, but the app thinks it has not done it, so it says plug in an ethernet cable.  I do this but then the app says my device needs S2!!  This is bogus since it it a Connect and the Connect only supports S1.  So I am stuck.

Sonos support is closed for 3 days until Tuesday and I am stuck with  dead system.  Any helpwould be welcome.  I am sure others must have been down this road before

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8 replies

Ken_Griffiths

How sure are you that your ‘Connect’ is S1 compatible only? - those manufactured from 2015 onwards are S1 and S2 compatible? Maybe check your online Sonos account to see the compatibility of your device:

https://www.sonos.com/myaccount/system

C

Reasons I know it is Gen 1”

  1. Sonos support told me it was
  2. Compatibility check said it could not run S2
  3. The link on the website says “Upgrade Eligible - get 15% off”
  4. Purchased June 2015, but serial  number starts 1501 meaning built in January.
Ken_Griffiths

OK I just wanted to check it’s S1. I understand you need an S1 only device to create a new S1 network and that’s why I asked the question. In your opening post however, you mention that one Play:1 was upgraded to S2 and that a Connect and a Play:1 were left on S1… if that is correct, can you kindly confirm you see the Play:1 in your S1 App before you begin the setup and is it upto date?

Did you then goto the S1 App (black icon) where you see the Play:1 device and goto "Settings/System Add Product” to setup your factory reset Connect?
 

‘I just want to mention briefly that it is rare to have to factory reset a Sonos device - it really should only be done as a last resort or when selling a device and I would try to avoid that going forward, once you resolve your matter, unless Support suggest that course of action. Normally a reboot of the device and/or the router is a better option and will solve most issues.

Anyhow can you perhaps confirm that the info. mentioned above is correct and perhaps try the ‘Add Product’ option once you have opened the S1 App and can see the one Play:1 speaker mentioned.

Ken_Griffiths

If you only have the one Play:1 (as I now suspect) and that is on the S2 App and don’t have another Play:1 already setup on S1, you will need to take these steps.

  1. Remove/Uninstall the S2 App from your mobile controller device (This is an important step)
  2. Reset the S1 App or uninstall/reinstall it 
  3. Open the S1 App and "create a new system” and add your (factory reset) Connect to it.
  4. Once the ‘Connect’ is setup, now reinstall the S2 App, but on opening choose the option to connect to an ‘existing system’. The App will prompt you to press a ‘join button’ that does not appear on a Play:1 device, so select the option “I do not see this button”. At the next screen press the buttons shown on your Play:1 device. That will then open the S2 controller App fully and you will now be back up and running with both an S1 system with your ‘Connect’ and an S2 system with your Play:1.

What I don’t fully understand is why you didn’t choose to leave both devices on a simple S1 setup, but I guess that’s your choice?

C

Thank you for you kind advice Ken……

In a nutshell where I am is that my Connect (which I assured you would not work with S2) is now working with S2.  But the Play1 which was working with S2 is now not working at all,  it can’t be detected even when hardwired to the router.  At this time I am willing to call it quits, I can live without the Play1 for now and maybe later will get help from tech support for this. 

If you want to read on, I answer one of your questions, and describe some behaviors which I can't comprehend.  I am thinking of sniffing the network with wireshark to see what kind of discovery protocols they are using and figure out why they don’t work. But that would be a project …. 

  1. Why not stay with S1?  Well my library mostly consists of 16-bit FLACs ripped from CDs. But I also have 24bit FLACs made from vinyl, and S1 doesn’t play those.
  2.  Removing the S2 app made the S1 app behave differently. It was now able to discover the device but assured me it required S2. I (foolishly) did not believe this, but in desperation re-installed the  S2 app (with the Play1 powered off) and hey-presto it found the device, made me connect it to ethernet, and now it’s nicely configured and back up running on wifi.
  3. But the Play 1 is now undiscoverable with S1 app or S2 app. Alack alas.
Ken_Griffiths

That’s okay.👍

So just to clarify, you have the ‘Connect’ running on S2 under a brand new HouseholdID within the same Sonos Account credentials. In that instance to get your Play:1 on that same HouseholdID, you would need to factory reset the Play:1 and add that via ‘Add Product’ as it is currently on a different HouseholdID.

Anyhow, you currently have two S2 systems by all accounts (from what you mention in your post).

This leaves you with a choice, as I’ve briefly outlined below:

Either…

  1. Factory Reset the Play:1 and add it to the new S2 setup that you just created using ‘Add Product’ in your current App. (OR…)
  2. Reset the controller App, connect it back to the Play:1 (original S2 HH Setup) and Factory reset the Connect and add it to that original Household instead.

The choice is yours.

Ken_Griffiths

Also, just for your info…

The ability of the ‘Connect’ to play a 24-bit file is apparently by 'accident' and not officially supported by Sonos. It's understood that the data is truncated to 16-bit anyway with support upto 48kHz sampling rate.

I understand from posts on the forum here, that its internal volume is reduced until it reaches -48dB. The lowest byte from the 24-bit input file is not reconstructed, but I doubt you, or anyone else, would notice/hear the difference.

C

Thanks once again Ken, your comments have proved really helpful.   The upshot is I have both units working on S2.  In retrospect, had I known I didn’t need to make a split system, it should have all gone smoothly and quickly.

The last obstacle to my getting it going using 1) or 2) above was that I was not doing the factory reset correctly.  I knew it was not working because the LED did not change colors the right way for the reset.  By googling I found that it was not enough to do a power-off/power-on what I needed to do was a power-off/wait-10seconds/power-on’.  So I had not been waiting, I just toggled the power holding down the buttons.  My mistake.

Thanks for your info about the 24-bit support.  I am not surprised - you get the same thing in systems which convert 10-bit video into 8-bit by ignoring the LSBs.  However it does mean that the files should be playable (although I have not verified this yet).

Anyway thanks for your patient help.

David

 

 

  

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