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ARC intermittent connection loss possibly with Atmos only



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Thanks @Ken_Griffiths  so far I am 15 minutes in and no cutout since changing those settings.  Mine now match what you shared above.  Fingers crossed.  

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@Ken_Griffiths  @ThatOneDude  No dice on changing the Frame Rate or Dynamic Range.  Still cut out on me.  I also confirmed this TV (LG Model 65UM6900PUA) is a 10 bit (HDR10) tv so it should support it.

  

Yes, my LG TV model is 10 bit colour too.. 👍

FWIW … On my LG  TV I just have ‘instant game response’ disabled on the HDMI-2 eARC port - I’ve left it ‘ON’ on the other ports. Exactly the same for HDMI deep colour too.

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Im sorry to hear that @RaultTN on another note, I changed it back to DD+ and am an hour into Ratatouille (which supports Atmos) and its just as before, outputting DD+ 5.1 . So from my observations DD+ and DD Should work (except on Apple TV+ , DD only)

 

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Ok so I have matched those setting @Ken_Griffiths ill let that ride and see how goes. Couple of other questions as I continue to dig. 
 

What do you have under Aspect Ratio Setting?

Is Just Scan on Auto, On, or Off?


Another thought is this AV Sync Adjustment?  It was previously off but I can see when I enable that I can bypass?


Lastly, to confirm that Bitstream is correct for each HDMI port for audio formatting?  

 

 

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@ThatOneDude  How are you getting your DD+ to not play Atmos?  When I enable DD+ I am still showing an Atmos signal through the Sonos App?


 

 

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Hmmmmmmm, let me see. I once had all my HDMI ports set to Bitstream but After the many headaches I had about a month ago trying to fiddle with Atmos on my TV I decided to just go back to PCM on my HDMI 1 (Fire Stick 4K port). Bitstream is what I read you need to have set if you want Atmos Content but it wasnt working for me so I just went back to PCM. Give it a shot. My Sonos Beam 2 is HDMI 2 btw. Ow and My Sound Out is Set to HDMI ARC (Pass-through)

 @RaultTN 

Bitstream is set on all my ports ..

Aspect Ratio = 16:9

Just Scan = Auto

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@ThatOneDude This is interesting.  So I just changed HDMI 1 (firestick) to PCM and now when I view the Sonos App it is showing Dolby Digital Plus 5.1 as you showed earlier.  It will be interesting to see if it kicks out again since it is not actually pushing out Atmos.  I didnt think PCM would push that but maybe its because the sound is actually going through HDMI (ARC)?  I have no idea.  It’s also very strange considering @Ken_Griffiths  has Bitstream for all inputs and has not experienced any of this madness.  So I guess if I dont get kicked out, this wouldn't fix the actual Atmos content but it at least gets me to DD+.  I still dont understand how this works between HDMI1 (firestick) being PCM, and HDM2 (Beam ARC) being bitstream.  My brain hurts ha. 

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I'm right there with ya bud 😅😂 feels kind of counterintuitive but atleast DD+ 5.1 will play when the content has it. I dont even remember how I came to this conclusion, probably countless google searches with some trial and error and a few shots of Bourbon to smooth out the torture hahaha. @RaultTN 

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I'm right there with ya bud 😅😂 feels kind of counterintuitive but atleast DD+ 5.1 will play when the content has it. I dont even remember how I came to this conclusion, probably countless google searches with some trial and error and a few shots of Bourbon to smooth out the torture hahaha. @RaultTN 

Never would I have thought this would be such a nightmare.  And dont get me started on the issues I have with Alexa… @Ken_Griffiths and I uncovered that madness a month or so ago ha.

Do you see any lip sync issues with PCM as your setting?  I did notice quite a bit of it the other night when watching a movie on Amazon Prime Video.  Usually I can deal with it but it was a big lag and only see it with Amazon Prime so far.  Maybe this PCM setting will fix that?  again, no idea just thinking out loud.

So far my video hasnt kicked out with this setting (PCM) so hoping for the best ha.  Still doesnt help answer the issue with Atmos content itself but its a start.  Ill let Amazon keep troubleshooting that on their end.

Thanks again guys

A PCM audio setting should get rid of any lip-sync issues. as it’s the default stereo output for all TV’s and is recommended if the TV is old and it’s processor slow and cannot ‘pass-through’ the audio.

Personally, in those type of cases, I would recommend the user opts to use an audio-extractor instead and bypass the TV altogether. There are three common extractors mentioned in the community here for those that have lip-sync issues due to the reasons mentioned, the extractors are:

 

HDFury Arcana

https://www.hdfury.uk/product/hdfury-arcana/

Feintech VAX04101A

https://feintech.eu/en/collections/hdmi-topseller/products/feintech-vax04101-hdmi-earc-pass-switch-4x1-for-soundbar

OREI HDA-931 or OREI HDA-935

https://www.orei.com/products/dual-hdmi-earc-audio-extractor-converter-4k-60hz-18g-hdmi-2-0-arc-support-hda-931

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Let me know if it kicks the bucket, If it does and its NOT passing through Atmos then give it another try cuz I've had zero issues so far (besides the Apple TV+ one from last night, this could be an outlier) *Knocking on Wood*. Sometimes I feel like there might be just the SLIGHTEST amount of lip sync lag but mostly it's not an issue, if it is then its so small that my brain compensates. Cheers! @RaultTN 

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A PCM audio setting should get rid of any lip-sync issues. as it’s the default stereo output for all TV’s and is recommended if the TV is old and it’s processor slow and cannot ‘pass-through’ the audio - Personally, in those type of cases I would recommend the user opts to use an audio-extractor instead and bypasses the TV altogether. There are three common extractors mentioned in the community here for those that have lip-sync issues due to the reasons mentioned, the extractors are:

 

HDFury Arcana

https://www.hdfury.uk/product/hdfury-arcana/

Feintech VAX04101A

https://feintech.eu/en/collections/hdmi-topseller/products/feintech-vax04101-hdmi-earc-pass-switch-4x1-for-soundbar

OREI HDA-931 or OREI HDA-935

https://www.orei.com/products/dual-hdmi-earc-audio-extractor-converter-4k-60hz-18g-hdmi-2-0-arc-support-hda-931

I've been eyeing the HD Fury Arcana for a few weeks. Do you have a favorite out of the 3? Thanks!

I've been eyeing the HD Fury Arcana for a few weeks. Do you have a favorite out of the 3? Thanks!

I have the Feintech VAX04101A connected to a Beam in the Dining Room - I chose it because it is a combined extractor/HDMI switch - whereas the Arcana would require a separate additional switch. It was also cheaper than Arcana …and at the time of purchase the OREI device did not exist.

I can only add the VAX04101A can be difficult to get hold of in some countries, but it is extremely well built and works well for me and does the job fine.👍 I just can’t comment on the other two as I’ve not used either of them, but other users say they each ‘work well’ too.

Just to also clarify the 2019 LG C9 ‘Living Room’ TV is directly connected to my Arc, I don’t use an audio extractor with that TV. (just thought I should mention that here). 

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Let me know if it kicks the bucket, If it does and its NOT passing through Atmos then give it another try cuz I've had zero issues so far (besides the Apple TV+ one from last night, this could be an outlier) *Knocking on Wood*. Sometimes I feel like there might be just the SLIGHTEST amount of lip sync lag but mostly it's not an issue, if it is then its so small that my brain compensates. Cheers! @RaultTN 

It has NOT kicked me out.  So this has fixed that piece for sure.  I have not yet tried to change the setting to Best Available to see if I get Atmos, and if it kicks me out, but I am at least getting one step closer ha.

Ill report back once I test out Best Available and see how goes.

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@Ken_Griffiths @ThatOneDude  So this is interesting. When I change the firestick to Best Available (now having the firestick set to PCM) the audio output through the Sonos app is only “Stereo PCM” so that’s no bueno. 
 

Something else to note. So now having PCM as hdmi1 (firestick), Disney+ only produces DD+ 5.1 which is fine, however I just checked Amazon Prime and started a show and it streamed Atmos regardless of the DD+ setting on firestick. Although I understand that DD+ brings with it Atmos. So it must be something between how Amazon Prime and Disney+ code Atmos maybe?  I have no idea but my brain is melting. 
 

Now to check and see if Amazon Prime (Atmos) kicks me out with PCM and DD* as the default. yay. 

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Morning guys.  Back at the troubleshooting today ha.  So I think this is what you eluded to yesterday @ThatOneDude  but now that I have my tv set to PCM and the Firestick set to DD+ I noticed that when playing Jack Ryan (Amazon Prime) it was forcing it to play Atmos (I assume because Atmos is a part of DD+).  When I play an Atmos movie on Disney, it only comes through as DD+ 5.0 with those same settings.  So something is different on how Amazon and Disney stream Atmos I feel?  Either way I did notice zero lip sync issues since switching to PCM (thank the lord ha). 

However while watching Jack Ryan last night (DD+ Atmos) it lost signal again as I expected.  Amazon has a setting that I can change from Atmos to DD+ which I did and it STILL CUTOUT when it showed DD+ 5.1 through the Sonos App.  So that is a new curveball?  May be somthing specific to how Amazon Prime streams DD+ content??

It is especially strange since you @Ken_Griffiths have the same setup with a Firestick (with network adaptor) and Sonos setup as I do.  I believe you also have the same model year tv (2019 LG) but I feel you have a higher end model (mine is pretty basic from my understanding).  Its also strange because you have your input set to Bitstream and mine acts differently in that setting.  

I just cant narrow down if the glitch is happening because of how the Firestick interacts with the TV, or if it is something directly related to the Firestick internally and the bandwidth needed to pull Atmos content.  

 

No show from Amazon yesterday after telling me they would call me back.  Classic ha.  Have a good one gentlemen, if you think of anything, give me a shout.  I am tempted to fully reboot my tv but god bless do I really want to deal with the settings again ha.  @ThatOneDude Have you attempted that yet on your TV while messing with yours?

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@Ken_Griffiths  I finally caught it in the act.  I see I can’t add a video here, if I emailed to you do you think you may be able to take a look to see if you can tell what is happening?  It’s just a quick 23 second video  If so, let me know your email  thank you sir  

 

 

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So it happened again did it? But it wasnt as often right? Hmmmmmmm, and your "HDMI ARC" is set to Pass-through correct? Thats weird, they always say that doing a complete reset restablishes the connections properly so give that a go, why not. Unplugging everything from the wall sockets and Unplugging all the HDMI connections from the TV, and waiting a few minutes is the way I would do it. Then replug the HDMI and Power back. Other than that I dont really know what else we could do tbh. Troubleshooting sucks 😆 

 I dont use Prime itself for my media consumption so its good to know that it has the same Apple TV+ Problem (but prime has a way the change it as you mentioned). @RaultTN 

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So it happened again did it? But it wasnt as often right? Hmmmmmmm, and your "HDMI ARC" is set to Pass-through correct? Thats weird, they always say that doing a complete reset restablishes the connections properly so give that a go, why not. Unplugging everything from the wall sockets and Unplugging all the HDMI connections from the TV, and waiting a few minutes is the way I would do it. Then replug the HDMI and Power back. Other than that I dont really know what else we could do tbh. Troubleshooting sucks 😆 

 I dont use Prime itself for my media consumption so its good to know that it has the same Apple TV+ Problem (but prime has a way the change it as you mentioned). @RaultTN 

So when I do a full reset on the TV should I have everything unplugged from the TV HDMI ports when I perform the action?  And then once the reboot happens, turn off the TV again, plug all HMDI ports back in and crank it all on together?  I want to be sure I follow the right steps.  Also along the same lines, do I power the tv on first and then the peripherals (Firestick, Sonos, etc.)?  or should I have the Firestick and Sonos powered on before powering back on the TV?

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Yes you inplug it all, HDMI and Power to said devices. I read you plug in the HDMI connections first and then the power to everything. Idk if there is a certain order for when you plug back in(to wall sockets). Try it a few different ways, just try not to go crazy 😜 @RaultTN 

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At the end of the day maybe we just need to get one of those fancy devices @Ken_Griffiths recommended ya know. @RaultTN 

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Guys @Ken_Griffiths  and @ThatOneDude It pains me to write this and it may be too soon but check this out.  Against everything I have read, I changed my LG tv to “Digital Sound Out” -to “AUTO” (instead of Pass-Through), put HDMI 1 back to Bitstream, and have the Firestick on Best Available.  I am currently 20 minutes into Moana and no lip sync and no cut out.  Confirmed I am receiving Atmos through the Sonos App.  

I swear to all that is holy, if that TV Pass-through setting being changed to Auto is what fixes this entire thing, I may lose my ever loving mind haha.  Im going to let this ride for rest of the movie before I do any reboot.  What in the world is going on!?! @Ken_Griffiths  Did you say you also have Pass-Through set on your LG tv?  Or do you possibly have it on "Auto”?    

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