ARC intermittent connection loss possibly with Atmos only

 @Ken_Griffiths   A couple of other things I am trying this afternoon. I had two settings I recently changed on my LG. The first is called “Instant Game Response” which was toggled “On” for hdmi1 (fire stick). No idea if it could be the culprit but there is a warning stating “when initiated the video may blink temporarily”. So we’ll see.  The other is “HDMI Ultra HD”. It also has a warning about potential issues if device is not supported. 

I have also unplugged Ethernet from my beam and now have all devices on Wi-Fi (WM:1) effectively disabling SonosNet (it’s greyed out anyways) so we’ll see how that goes. Fingers crossed. 

@Ken_Griffiths No luck. Back to the drawing board.

My thoughts, if it’s not the Xbox, are to perhaps next change the HDMI-ARC cable. If it was a network connection, I would have expected Apps, like Netflix etc; to display a ‘buffering’ moniker on the TV screen rather than see the LG logo.

I would have just power-cycled the two surrounds. Note the HT surrounds do not use your WiFi network, instead they connect ‘directly’ to your Beam using a 5Ghz ad-hoc connection - the 5Ghz band is used as it’s faster and that helps keep all the HT audio in lip-sync with the video on screen. Whatever you do, do not switch off the WiFi adapters on any of your HT devices… it’s needed for connection between the HT players.

It is worth testing your setup with the Beam either wired (SonosNet) or wireless (often called ‘Station’ mode by some users) and see which works best as ‘sometimes’ wired/switch-linked networks can also have issues, so no harm testing both types of connection. Although I’m not (yet) convinced it’s a network connection issue, but perhaps more related to A/V connections to the LG TV.

Let me know if I can assist further.

Yes, it’s probably not the local network connections - I would revert back to wiring the Beam back to the switch or better still bypass the switch and wire directly back to the router if that’s practicable.

Do not disable the WiFi adapters on your Sonos products.

I would try a new HDMI cable between TV and Beam.. I would also try the FireTV in a different HDMI port - perhaps try it in HDMI-4 and see if that makes a difference.

You can cable back the XBox now too (leave it in HDMI-3 (if that’s where it was to begin with?)

@Ken_Griffiths Random thought as I am looking at this “switch” my buddy gave me. Could this be my issue if this is a “cheap” switch and maybe not able to handle what the Atmos pulls from the network?

I have come certainly come across faulty switches myself in the past and Ethernet cables too …so maybe just try by-passing the switch (if practicable and easy to do) and just see what happens. 

Note the switch is a ‘gigabit’ switch, so it is easily able to handle the data requirements. In fact a 10/100 switch would be fine too, but cables and switches do sometimes develop faults - but maybe try your Fire TV 4K setup on its WiFi connection and eliminate/bypass the switch that way. 

Ok going to Check out the firestick on Wi-Fi only and will see how goes. If that doesn’t work I’ll try the Beam direct from the wall port that the switch is connected too and bypass the switch all together. 

Thanks again sir.

Rick

@RaultTN,
Did you try switching the Beams HDMI cable, or is that something that you still might try later?

I have switched HDMI cables with no luck. Also, It just cutout removing the Amazon network adaptor and using Wi-Fi for the Firestick so no luck there. I’ve just hardwired the beam direct into the router so here goes nothing. 
Rick