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I've googled this plenty, so I think this is right but I wanted to hear from the experts. I don't currently own Sonos, so I'm not entirely sure how some aspects would work.



I'm trying to get 5.1 surround in the living room with a Bar + Sub + 2 P1's. But I also have in-ceiling wired speakers I'd like to use as a Zone 2. Ultimately I'd like Zone 2 to be EITHER the same output as the living room OR independent. One of those Zone 2 rooms is the patio and it's good to have separate music out there or to send the TV audio out there as I can watch the TV through the window while enjoying a cigar.



Here's a rough wiring diagram that I am thinking.





Here's the speaker selector I have -- this should be fine to power 5-6 rooms of ceiling speakers since it has an impedance controller, correct? I've been using it for 6 years with a Pioneer receiver, so I would assume so? "Built-in impedance-matching circuitry ensures that the overall impedance level to the amplifier does not drop below 5 Ohms, no matter how many speaker zones are selected or how many speakers are in each zone."

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=8229&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkq2f3s781gIVDH5-Ch0kHQwaEAQYASABEgJNWvD_BwE



So using this approach -- someone could watch the Roku TV in the living room, but I could turn on Spotify, etc. from the Sonos app on the Amp (Zone 2)? Or alternatively send Spotify to all Sonos equipment -- so music in living room and Zone 2? I assume both the Bar and Amp work as such -- you can send any "Sonos audio" from the app... or if there is an input signal from a wired connection (optical or RCA) it would override the Sonos app audio?



I originally had that 4x2 HDMI switch because I didn't have the Sonos Amp in the mix -- so I was thinking of having an old iPhone send Pandora/Spotify to an old receiver powering Zone 2. However, I swapped in the Sonos Amp. Would this render this HDMI switch useless? Or would I need that to get the Roku audio out into the Amp/Zone 2?



Hope that all makes sense - and I appreciate the help.
I have no experience of the switches.

The connect amp can play anything the Playbar is receiving, and vice-versa, playing together, their own sources or each others sources.

Potentially you could achieve the same result by keeping the receiver and using a Connect rather than a Connect Amp?

The Sonos components don't need to be wired together, or wired at all, but I would recommend one is wired to your router.
Ah thanks. I think I got confused in all my searching. The hard-wired ethernet between the Amp and Bar was based on this:

https://sonos.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2248?_ga=2.20069692.507767167.1508412789-416712650.1507901240

Wire both the PLAYBAR or PLAYBASE and CONNECT:AMP to either your router, a single network switch, or to each other, using an Ethernet cable.



But that's actually if you want to use the Amp to power non-Sonos speakers for the rear surrounds, now that I re-read it.



Seems like setting up the 5.1 "all Sonos" system is fairly straight forward through the app.

https://sonos.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/2938/~/setting-up-surround-sound-with-the-sonos-playbar-or-playbase



The only reason I considered the Amp rather than my existing receiver is the ease of sending different output to the Amp (which of course I wouldn't have with the receiver) -- for instance, easily sending Spotify to the Amp from the Sonos app. Plus, I'll move that receiver to an upstairs game room.



But this is what I'm trying to make sure -- is this setup correct/best for what I'm after. I just don't want to buy equipment that I don't end up needing if there's a better or easier way.
First, I don't think you need the hdmi switch or adapter to component. Your Connect:AMP (zone 2) can be grouped to with the playbar zone (zone 1) to play the same thing, or different at any time. The only scenario where you would really 'need it' is if you want to play a different hdmi source on your zone 1 than on zone 2. Say Roku in zone 1, and DVD in zone 2. I kinda doubt that's the case since you have no video for zone 2. Maybe you eventually get one, and an hdmi matrix is needed, but you can deal with that then.



And that's assuming your tv can handle 3 hdmi inputs. I don't really see the need for the old iPhone, unless you have some audio source that Sonos doesn't have natively, like Audible (not right now) or youtube. even then, you could just attached the iPhone directly to zone 2, and it would be playable everywhere.



As already pointed out, you don't need the Ethernet between zone 1 and zone 2. I would recommend that you connect the playbar to your router though. I am guessing your playstation and Roku are also nearby and can be wired, and it's just best to wire when it's possible.



As for using a speaker selector off a connect, I don't think it's wise to power so many rooms off of one connect:amp. Yes, the speaker switch helps with the impedance matching, but you still have limited power. So your speakers will only play at limited volume. I regularly run two pairs of speakers, sometimes 3, but wouldn't want to do anymore then that. So you would be better served with a higher wattage receiver +connect, and your speaker selector.



Still, you lose a lot of the convenience and control when you use a speaker selector. Instead of grouping speakers on the fly through the app, you now have to walk to wherever your selector is. And if you get a selector that has no volume control, you're not going to get the right volume in each room. You may want to consider get a connect:amp for outside only at first, and then build on the system later as budget allows, something like that. Maybe a connect:amp for outside, a receiver+connect+speaker switch for all the other 'zone 2' rooms.





One last point, like you I wanted to have the tv audio playing outside, and people can look through the window to see the tv. It kind of sucks. A lot of squinting and such. My current project is to put a tv on a rolling stand that I can roll out there whenever I want to watch tv outside. A 50" 4k tv + cart can be had of under $500, the cost of the connect:amp. I have a connect I can use to play the tv audio through the outdoor speakers. Phase 2 will be to get the inside and outside tvs in sync.
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