I am running SonosNet and has a Boost hardwired to my router. To my understanding, the Boost creates a mesh network (together with all the speakers - I have speakers in 4 rooms).
In the most remote room, the connection is poor with some dropouts. Would yet another Boost half way between the remote room and the existing Boost help?
The new Boost cannot be hardwired.
It could well do. Go to http://x.x.x.x:1400/support/review and screenshot the Network Matrix. (x.x.x.x is the IP address of a player, not the Boost.)
A speaker there would do almost as well, if you have a spot where you could use a Sonos One or an older Play 1 it would be close in price to the Boost.
You could also move one of your speakers from the other side of your house to the spot you are considering for the Boost and see if it helps.
Thanks!
Here’s my matrix. The current Boost is “Vardagsrum 2”. The problem area is “Kontor” which is a stereo pair.
Kontor (L) is wirelessly supported by Vardagsrum (LF,RF), which appears to be wired. Kontor (R) connects direct to (L). The signal strength to Kontor (L) is borderline, but could well work okay in the absence of interference.
You could try a Boost somewhere between Kontor (L) and the current Boost, or between Kontor (L) and Vardagsrum (LF,RF). It might get ignored, but it’s worth a try.
I have not added an extra Boost yet. It seems the matrix has now changed after a restart of my cable modem and my Velop wifi-router.
“Vardagsrum (LF,RF)” is the Playbar in my home theatre setup (I think). It is hardwired according to the following: Velop router → switch → Powerline → Switch → Playbar. Might the Powerline be the source of trouble?
The Powerline can definitely be the cause, as Sonos does not support ethernet over power:
https://support.sonos.com/s/article/126?language=en_US
As for the further analysis of the matrix, I’ll leave that to the more competent forum members. While waiting for that, take a look at this article about wireless interference:
https://support.sonos.com/s/article/3286?language=en_US
Kontor (R) is now connecting, weakly, to the Boost. It could be expected to flip between that and Kontor (L) → Vardagsrum (LF,RF).
Kok (R) is being hit with local interference, but it has an excellent connection to the Boost, so ignore all that as long as it works.
I concur with
As for Kontor, I think it’s worth getting a second Boost and placing it, wireless, somewhere roughly midway between the existing Boost and that room. On the basis of the current signal strengths to Kontor I believe the extra Boost could well help.
You might trial this (approximately) by temporarily placing an existing speaker from elsewhere in the system where the Boost would go. Although getting a Boost is the only definitive test, clearly, and buying from Sonos makes returns very simple if it doesn’t help.
Thanks ratty and John B!
So I added a Boost halfway to the problem area. I have not yet had any dropouts or issues (but it has only been up and running for 10 minutes).
What conclusions can be drawn from the attached matrix? The new Boost is “Badrum”.
Hi. Looks like it is acting as hoped, acting as a repeater between the wired Boost and Kantor, with improved signal strength.
The wireless interference around Vardagsrum and Kok has disappeared in this matrix so maybe worth seeing if there is anything obvious in the vicinity that might cause intermittent interference.
Thanks John B!
I guess the neighbours have a lot of microwaves… I can't find anything in my apartment, except for one security cam close to Kök R.
Better wait for endorsement by
Good in parts, but still not right.
Kontor (R) is happier, but Kontor (L) is still connecting weakly to Vardagsrum (LF,RF), which remains wired to the powerline.
As I said before, disconnect it.
Vardagsrum (LF,RF) has a good wireless connection available, and Kontor (L) should stop trying to connect through it and switch to Badrum (hopefully).
As for Kok (R) and the intermittent interference, if it’s a security camera using a proprietary wireless protocol (not WiFi) that’s likely to be the culprit.
Thanks ratty,
Disconnecting Powerline will be next step. Will report back - probably in couple of days.
Just pull the Playbar connection from the Ethernet switch. You can still use the powerline for non-Sonos kit.
By the way, unless the powerline has a monitor app to report the state of the connection (e.g. with Devolo) you’ll be driving blind.
Yeah, but I use the playbar’s passthru to my TV and its all hidden and built in to a cupboard. Don’t want to mess with the missus’ Netflix binging
Ah, okay. If it’s easier to just get at the back of the Playbar you could always pull out both cables there and use an RJ45 coupler to patch them together.
Great idea. I had forgotten there is such a thing!
$5.99 and free shipping for Prime.
Or £1.50/$2 with free shipping for Cat5e/Cat6, which is all one requires.
So the Playbar is no longer hardwired. Not sure whether there was an improvement.
Vardagsrum (LF,RF) is still showing as wired.
Wired - weird indeed! Maybe I need to reboot it.
The sub is wired, however. It is not wired via Powerline, but rather straight to a switch that is wired to the Velop (main node).
I am puzzled by the absence of node information for Vardagsrum (LF,RF), and wonder if having the Sub wired (normally not advised) is causing some strange data routing here. But I look forward as much as
Ah, I was looking in the wrong place. Vardagsrum (LF,RF) is getting its connection via 5GHz off the wired Sub.
This is all wrong. Remove the wire from the Sub. As I’ve pointed out, you simply don’t need a wired connection into Vardagsrum. There’s an available wireless connection to the primary Boost at a good signal strength of ~50.
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