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I have recently changed our home Wifi to TP Link Omada as our existing Wifi didnt reach around the home, I am planning on adding some managed switches too which I think will help with our sonos setup in the long run.

 

I currently have a number of devices hard wired (wifi off), a boost and some on wifi (should be sonosnet)

 

We have had performance issues on and off over the years and hard wiring some of the sonos appears to have fixed it, the office and nursery speakers are hard wired as they are the furthest from the Boost. Would an additional boost help?

 

Since changed to Omada APs, our devices connected by WiFi arent able to play anything, the wired devices are still functioning, these are currently connected to dumb switches.

 

Our network matrix is as below:

 

 

Any advice, suggestions are appreciated. 

I plan to move the location of the boost again as a first port of call. Does anyone use TP Link Omada and know the best settings to use?

 they have since disappeared...)

See my post.


 

This is with just the boost hardwired.

Boost is in the same location as my Hubitat and Hue hubs, i can move it

 

Baby monitor is currently turned off

 

It takes a minute or two before the ANI level reacts to a change in local interferers. 

As for the hubs, try spacing them at least 50cm away. The inverse square law obviously applies.


Now only the boost is wired…

What does Office being green mean? Does this mean connected to Boost but nothing else connected via it?

 


@wolvesphil,

After some system changes, I sometimes find power-cycling the Sonos products may often help, starting with switching off all, then bringing them back online, one at a time, starting with the Wired Boost then the next nearest (wireless) device (as the crow flies) and the next and so on and so forth. I then wait half an hour.. it’s sometimes a case of being patient and letting things settle.

Reserving their IP addresses in the routers DHCP reservation table is also a very worthwhile thing to do too, (if not done already?).


Now only the boost is wired…

What does Office being green mean? Does this mean connected to Boost but nothing else connected via it?

 

It means it is somehow escaping the wireless interference affecting the rest of your speakers, indicated by the red

Edit: @ratty’s suggestion that it has jumped onto 5GHz is a very plausible explanation.


@wolvesphil,

Reserving their IP addresses in the routers DHCP reservation table is also a very worthwhile thing to do too, (if not done already?).

 

Already done this, I will try a staged reboot, when my son wakes up! He is due his nap soon and the “Nursery” one is used to play white noise…

Office has jumped onto the WiFi (WM:1 in the controller’s About), quite possible on 5GHz. 

Thanks for the explanation, will see Ken’s suggestion of turning all off and then back on bit by bit helps….


Do you have a baby monitoring wireless system?


Or a high powered Bluetooth? Something non-WiFi is really aggressive. I kind of doubt it’s the Zigbee.


Do you have a baby monitoring wireless system?

Yes, I know these cause issues! Would be a good test to turn it off next time I am working at home and he is at nursery…

 

Thinking back, this was the reason we initially wired the nursery speaker in, as when the Sonos started playing the white noise the monitor would beep as it lost signal.


Do you have a baby monitoring wireless system?

Yes, I know these cause issues!

Some cause horrendous issues. 


When you can, turn the whole baby alarm system off for a few minutes and refresh the matrix.

Edit: just seen your question about this!


You could also experiment with the Sonos channel although I am not optimistic that will make much difference.


I’ll try it this afternoon, as I am pretty intrigued now!

 

Thanks everyone for your input on this so far, been scratching my head for a while on this!


@wolvesphil,

Yes, lots of interference around the majority of devices, but maybe things need to settle - it would help to know what 2.4Ghz WiFi channels are in use by the Omada WiFi Hubs, aswell as knowing the chosen SonosNet channel.

Zigbee channel 25 or 26 are often good ones to use as I find those channels do not interfere too much, even with WiFi/SonosNet channel 11, if that may help you at all?

I’m not aware of the customisation allowed with the Omada WiFi mesh system, but perhaps in an ideal world, if no neighbours are encroaching on the property with their wireless networks, It would help for example, to get the Omada/Hubs all using ‘fixed’ channel-1 (ideally with a channel-width of 20Mhz only), then SonosNet on Channel-6 and Zigbee devices like your lights etc. running on channel-25. 

Try to get the baby monitor then on Channel 11 - if it allows that change. When the baby cries it might then only flash your lights on & off (joke) ha ha😀

 


Hi. Are you saying that you have 'wifi disabled' set on your wired devices? If so then you have semi crippled SonosNet. You should start by re-enabling the wireless radios on those devices.

Why do you think managed switches would benefit Sonos? It isn’t clear to me why that would help.

You have some serious wireless interference there, but we'll come back to that.

I don't think a further Boost would help at all.

First please clarify the position on 'wifi disabled'.


 

This is with just the boost hardwired.

Boost is in the same location as my Hubitat and Hue hubs, i can move it

 

Baby monitor is currently turned off