Are the ceiling speakers active speakers? If so then a Connect is what you need.. if they are passive then you need the Amp.

My current setup - Audio from stereo (zone 2) to Connect (in), Digital from Connect (out) to Aton Multi room device to 6 zones.  The Connect handles all of them and I think the speakers are passive but I’m not sure...

You hadn't mentioned the amplifier 

You lost me John B, I mentioned the Amp in my original post.  

He means that a Connect does not have the power needed to run passive speakers, hence there has to an amp between the two. What kind of amp?

Edit: If the Aton has a built in multi zone amp that is wired to the passive speakers, then the Connect/Port is what you need - but why do you even need that in the first place? Why not stereo direct to Aton?

And if the Connect does have a purpose, why change it if it is working?

Let’s be careful about definitions. “Amp” is a SONOS product capable of driving traditional passive speakers and “amp” is slang for a generic “amplifier” that is also capable of driving traditional passive speakers. A stereo or A/V receiver contains an amplifier. “CONNECT” or “PORT” are SONOS products that function similarly to a traditional cassette deck. PORT or CONNECT could be used as an input source to the Aton system, traditional amplifier or receiver.

I’ll agree with thedonva that the SONOS Amp has no function unless a seventh zone is needed. Even then CONNECT or PORT would be required for input to the Aton.

In any case, you would want to use a y-connection to send CONNECT’s audio to the receiver. This would allow SONOS audio to play through the receiver and Aton.

Buzz - nailed it! Yes, I am using the connect now, works great but it is a little underpowered.  Just wish the Sonos Amp had an audio out interface.  I listed the Amp on Facebook Marketplace to see if I can get any money for it.  I might try wiring it for one of my zones but the Aton interface is Cat 5 so I don’t think I have a way to access the speaker wires if that makes sense.  Maybe I can find another creative use for the Amp...

Kumar - I do agree, it actually works fine for the most part.  I was going to upgrade to the Port and give the connect to a friend.  And I thought about just using the receiver to the Aton but then I can’t access the receiver from the Sonos app.  Airplay would work but I like controlling everything through the Sonos App.  Thanks!

The Port would be just as underpowered - these are not amplifiers. 

For both Connect and Port, the answer to get more sound levels is by configuring their Line In settings to as a high a level as it takes to get the sound levels you need.

If your Connect is downstream of the receiver, in what way are you able to access the receiver via the Sonos app? What is your music source?

thedonva,

Why are you claiming that CONNECT is “a little underpowered”? Connect is known as a “line level” device that is appropriate as an input to another device, which could be your Aton, a receiver, 3rd party power amplifier, or similar. CONNECT cannot drive speakers. We don’t associate “power” with a device such as CONNECT.

Best practice for your system would be to set CONNECT’s Line-Out to Fixed and set individual room Volume through the Aton zones. One issue that you might have is that CONNECT’s output is different from other inputs, requiring an Aton Volume adjustment when switching to and from other sources. This can be annoying for the operator. If this is your situation, Aton may provide a means to adjust the relative levels between sources. I have no experience with Aton.

Or, even better IMO, Connect Line out variable to receiver to Aton; allowing for the Sonos app to control volume.

Thanks for all the tips.  I can control the volume through the Sonos App and adjust with the Aton wall controllers.  I bought the Aton hub in 2009 so I’ve gotten my moneys worth out of it.  The Aton is outdated tech IMO with all the wireless speakers but it works for providing sound to the ceiling speakers circa 2010. 

If by outdated you refer to wireless v wired - even state of the art wireless today is not as reliable as wired. So if wires are in place and not an eye sore, stay wired.

Discontinued - no longer supported or for sale.  Although it is hard to find an alternative and it still works...

thedonva,

There may be a better plan. Which model Aton are you using?

Why worry as long as it works?

Good point. The Aton is. DH44. Someone offered me $475 for the Amp, that’s a big hit, probably going to pass and see if I can use it somewhere. 

@thedonva  Hopefully this doesn’t come off as rude, but it sounds like your biggest issue is that you don’t seem to understand what equipment you have or how it works, and therefore, you’re only guessing at what you need.  If you don’t feel like you’re getting enough volume in your 6 zones, then you either need to upgrade the amplifier(s) in your system or the combination of volume control through Sonos and wall controllers isn’t working right.

Never mind, my idea is not appropriate for DH44. By the way a single DH44 will handle four zones, but multiple DH44’s can be connected together to handle more rooms.

All good, I bought the SONOS Amp thinking I could replace my connect, should’ve bought a Port.  Definitely a novice here.  I am good with what I have, I was really trying to see if there is / was a creative way to use the Amp instead of my Connect.  After reading several articles I realize that is not an option.  This all started when a friend said he wanted to use his older in ceiling speakers, I recommended the Amp, glad he did not buy it since it won’t work with multiple speakers...

Are you out of the Sonos return window - 100 days, if I recall? You could get a full refund..

Best Buy, there return window is not so generous...

There is one way, but it requires some DIY wiring and a few resistors.

The speaker out expects to see a very low resistance (4-8 ohms) and will deliver a lot of current to the terminals.

If you insert three resistors in series between the terminals, and then connect an rca output across the middle one, then the high current will be dramatically reduced due to the resistors in the path between the amp and the RCA out.  Try something like 50k-100k-50k for the three resistors.  You retain volume control via the amp.

I just did the math for this to be sure, and would use different resistor values.

125 watts per channel into 8 ohms means that the voltage out at the terminals is up to 4 volts.  (Square root of 125/8).  Line level outputs are around 0.3 Volts.  So we need to drop the output voltage from 4v to 0.3V.  this can be done with resistors of 470k-68k-470k.  The RCA jack will be at a maximum voltage of 68/(470+68+470)*4V, or 0.27V

Wow, I would need to see a diagram for this.  Are we talking soldering (DIY wiring) or something simpler?