Play 3 Powersupply fault.



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Thanks to Jamie Taylor. I had exactly the same issue, and exactly the same image.
They have thermally tied the capacitor to the diode array (which does get hot). Not a good move. The track blowing saves the rest of the circuit.
Full marks to Sonos for allowing the forum though. Hopefully they'llsee this as a common issue and not put it in future designs.
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hi there. I'm new here, just found this forum soon as i got the problem....i have the same problem, but mine is even worst, it seems to be affected even more parts. can somebody tell me what part is the one near the blown capacitor and what replacement i can get? thanks in advance to everybody

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it use to be a SMD part, but i can't identify what was....sorry for reposting the image, but i forgot to edit it before
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i can see nobody want to answer. I was able to open the other unit i have and I had a look at the same board and here is the picture. The part i am looking for is D307 and I supposed it's a diode. the code is AN 97. I couldn't find any information. can someone help me with a suggestion and what I can get for replacement . thanks in advance

I have a play5 that's completely dead, but after opening it up i can't see any obvious reasons why. I measuring around 325VDC after the rectifier, is that a correct value?
Hi,

My Play 3 has also just lost power. I am not competent enough to open/inspect so looking for some advice on possibility of repair by SONOS? I am in Australia.

Does SONOS do repairs? I have looked over website but it is not clear to me how to contact them?
Userlevel 7
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Sonos will exchange (for fee if out of warranty)

https://www.sonos.com/en-au/contact/contact-options
Hi,
My Play 3 died the other day and I am just outside my warrenty period 😞 I contacted sonos customer services who did not help me in the slightest. I have now looked at the power supply board and seen that the board around one of the input capacitor has burnt out and or the cap itself.

As customer services won't even sell me a new power board, does anyone have a circuit diagram for this board so i can attempt to repair it myself. ( I am competent with electronics).
P/N: RN-002657 (board number)
Date: 08-04-11

Also has anyone else experienced this fault. I am assuming a power surge has done this.

Many thanks

Jamietaylor13
My own "3" lasted longer but exhibits the same fault. As it happens I have my own Electronics company and we looked at the PCB (see attached) which has been woefully under-specified and the boards are poorly built. The Bridge rectifier has blown and taken the board and the electrolytic capacitors ( a totally inferior unknown manufacturer) with it! We can repair it but it doesn't say much for the quality of a high end system that has clearly been built to minimum cost
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Does anyone know if Sonos have modified the board in newer Play3's?. I've just bought one and this doesn't bode well!.
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Not sure but it is rare to ever hear a play:3 issue. These couple here are about only ones ever heard of.
Does anyone know if Sonos have modified the board in newer Play3's?. I've just bought one and this doesn't bode well!.

I should say that my own 3 is several years old and its likely that, as this is an inherent design problem, that it has happened several times and Sonos has designed this particular issue out of the later versions. So i wouldnt worry too much
Sonos will exchange (for fee if out of warranty)

https://www.sonos.com/en-au/contact/contact-options


Where did you get that information from? They were not willing to replace mine for free at all.
N2GO, he said "for fee", not "for free".
ahh. what a difference a letter makes 🙂
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I have a play 3 too but not sure of the age. Would anyone recommend I proactively check and swap the caps before things go wrong? Anything else need doing at same time? Thanks
Same issue and same number this end ☹️
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Same part date, same issue. I'm going to speak nicely to the electronics guys at work.
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Hi
Just found my play 3 dead !
So same problem nearly a hole through the PCB next to the caps
I have a done lot of repairs in the past on PSUs with (Bad Caps) so should be an easy one as I also have a lot of soldering experience
my electronics knowledge is pretty basic
Am I right In thinking i can just replace the rectifier bridge and caps next to it ?
If so I’ve just Ordered GBU406 (GBU408 discontinued with RS) and some caps to replace the 400v 33uf ones,
I’ll change these then get back to this forum over the weekend unless anyone can suggest any thing else I need to do in the meantime ?

Thanks
Ian
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Oh and I chose the GBU406 800v as it’s the closest comparable component spec
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I did forget to mention I will be repairing the PCB track from the rectifier to the first cap also
Hi, yes that voltage is correct.
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Thanks Imagine Luismi
I got it working perfect with the new caps/ rectifyier/small red fuse t2a/ track repair
Great DIY repair
Thanks for your comments, would you be so kind to measure the output voltages? There are one to eight pins, 4 red and four black. Regards,
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Hi Everyone,
I have not checked this thread since I resolved my issue and I am absolutely amazed to see the activity on this topic. I'm glad that my fix assisted others who are competent to do this work but I also feel sad that the vast majority of people who experience this issue outside of their warranty period have to fork out a lot of money for what is a relatively simple fix. It is clear that the batch has a common fault and I hope this was engineered out in future iterations of the board. In my opinion, this should have been recalled if there is a common fault on this product version as this thread seems to demonstrate in my opinion.

In response to Ryan S's comment about voiding warranties. I agree that people should not attempt a repair if it is still within the warranty period however this will now no longer be the case with this aged board I assume as a newer version will now be implemented. I would like to state that I called the customer service department and I was not offered any service to repair or replace the item. Granted it was outside the warranty period but literally by months. I was left to deal with this issue on my own. I really do hope that Sonos have improved their support in helping people maintain their products. Knowing that there is a good support service is critical in all industries and will only help the reputation of the company.

I will conclude that my Play3 is still up and running every day with no further issues. That's a three-year soak test! Thank you, Sonos for keeping this thread going and I hope it proves useful to those who own a Play3 P/N: RN-002657 (board number) dated 08-04-11 in the future.

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