Answered

How do I stop my new Sonos One SL dropping off my controller?


Badge

My new Sonos One SL drops off my controller, or stops functioning on the controller like as if it loses signal. It keeps playing with my Beam and Play 1 in the other room, but at times I can’t change the volume until it finds the system again on the app. Or like just now, I go to listen to music on the One SL and it’s not on the app, unlike my Beam or Play 1. They’re only in a room next to one another, and the room that the SL is in, does not have signal issues for any other devices like an Echo Dot, mobile phones, or laptops etc.

All the devices are wireless. This is happening daily.

icon

Best answer by Corry P 14 April 2021, 16:44

View original

This topic has been closed for further comments. You can use the search bar to find a similar topic, or create a new one by clicking Create Topic at the top of the page.

44 replies

Userlevel 7
Badge +18

The Smart Hub 2 firmware causing this issue is V0.26.03.01286

Userlevel 7
Badge +18

I did think so, otherwise this would solve all issues, but thought I’d ask. Right so my options are:

1 - I’ve got to buy a Sonos boost.

2 - I’ve got to get an engineer to extend my broadband to the socket behind the tv, to allow me to wire to the beam.

Any recommendations to which option is cheaper/better?

@scottyboi08

We are hoping BT will resolve this with another firmware update, so I would first recommend the temporary use of a long (they can go up to 100m, so length really isn’t an issue) ethernet cable - if you can convince the Mrs and if it’s practical. To be perfectly honest, it would actually be cheaper (and better for your network as a whole) to get a third-party router that’s better than the one you have than to get a Boost (though I recommend you don’t spend less than about £50-60), or a BT engineer in. A Boost would certainly be a lot less hassle to set up, however, and no appointment necessary.

If you are going to buy a Boost, I recommend you first log in to your account at www.sonos.com/login and select Upgrade to see if you have any discount codes available - once activated, it will be automatically applied to the most expensive item in your shopping basket on our website (if signed in). This is of course about the smallest value discount you can get, so you may want to save any vouchers you have for a future purchase and bigger savings.

 

The more people who contact BT about this issue, the more seriously they’ll take it and the quicker it’s likely to be resolved. So, if anyone out there is experiencing this issue too, please contact BT Broadband support (check my previous post for wording).

I’d say the BOOST would be less expensive than having someone come out and work on your home.

I use a BOOST myself, mostly as I don’t have a speaker close enough to my router to wire directly. Only time I had an issue was when I got a new neighbor who set up their router on the channel I was using for SonosNet. Required me to switch channels, but other than that, it is rock solid.

OK, one complaint….when Sonos updates the firmware on the BOOST, it turns the LED back on. No change in the controller, so I have to go in and turn the LED switch in the controller on, then off again. 

Badge

It would revert. It’s the connection of the ethernet cable that causes the speaker to create SonosNet. As soon as you remove that cable, it would revert back to your own wifi. 

I did think so, otherwise this would solve all issues, but thought I’d ask. Right so my options are:

1 - I’ve got to buy a Sonos boost.

2 - I’ve got to get an engineer to extend my broadband to the socket behind the tv, to allow me to wire to the beam.

Any recommendations to which option is cheaper/better?

It would revert. It’s the connection of the ethernet cable that causes the speaker to create SonosNet. As soon as you remove that cable, it would revert back to your own wifi. 

Badge

HI @scottyboi08 

What should I then do if I can get an Ethernet connected to one of the Sonos? Do I restart all devices, and then set them up. Could you give me instructions.

I did try it with my Play 1, but it then didn’t bring any of them up onto my controller, so didn’t think it would work, but maybe I didn’t follow the correct process.

Connecting the cable is all you should need to do, other than wait for it to then reboot - other speakers will pick the signal it broadcasts, then immediately prefer that connection over WiFi and reboot too. So, connect the cable then wait about 2 minutes - that's usually all you need to do.

If you are able to connect in the app, you can go into Settings » System » About my System and check for WM:0 next to each room - this means they’re using SonosNet. Some speakers may need a manual reboot - they’ll say WM:1, but it’s unlikely. You can ignore any that say WM:2 - this is satellite speakers connecting directly to a Home Theatre product.

If you are unable to connect, make sure you are connecting the speaker to a LAN/Network/Ethernet port on the router and not a WAN/Internet port. Try another cable if you have one.

Aside from physically moving your router, you can get ethernet cables up to 100m long so by no means are you restricted to the 1m cable you probably have.

 

If I connected a speaker temporarily, and then after disconnected it from the router, would that then hold the new network it created, or revert back to the previous settings? 

Userlevel 7
Badge +18

No, WM:2 is indicator for the satellite speakers being connected to the HT theater product in WiFi (station) mode. In SonosNet the surround speakers (and the Sub) also display WM:0.

Thanks @Smilja, I’m more used to using a diagnostic than the About My System page!

You can ignore any that say WM:2 - this is satellite speakers connecting directly to a Home Theatre product.

 

No, WM:2 is indicator for the satellite speakers being connected to the HT theater product in WiFi (station) mode. In SonosNet the surround speakers (and the Sub) also display WM:0.

Userlevel 1
Badge

I have just read out the notes (see earlier post) to BT and they are going to send me out a new hub to see if that resolves the problem.

Fingers crossed!

Userlevel 1
Badge

I have been directed here also as my Sonos keeps dropping out and it’s driving me mad!

I have recently upgraded my BT Smart Hub 2 to the Halo 3+ and have had nothing but issues since then.

It is reaching the point where I was going to look for a different music system as it is so frustrating!

I will try going down the BT route to see if I can get some success there but thank you so much for this post - I was beginning to think I was mad!

Userlevel 7
Badge +18

HI @scottyboi08 

What should I then do if I can get an Ethernet connected to one of the Sonos? Do I restart all devices, and then set them up. Could you give me instructions.

I did try it with my Play 1, but it then didn’t bring any of them up onto my controller, so didn’t think it would work, but maybe I didn’t follow the correct process.

Connecting the cable is all you should need to do, other than wait for it to then reboot - other speakers will pick the signal it broadcasts, then immediately prefer that connection over WiFi and reboot too. So, connect the cable then wait about 2 minutes - that's usually all you need to do.

If you are able to connect in the app, you can go into Settings » System » About my System and check for WM:0 next to each room - this means they’re using SonosNet. Some speakers may need a manual reboot - they’ll say WM:1, but it’s unlikely. You can ignore any that say WM:2 - this is satellite speakers connecting directly to a Home Theatre product.

If you are unable to connect, make sure you are connecting the speaker to a LAN/Network/Ethernet port on the router and not a WAN/Internet port. Try another cable if you have one.

Aside from physically moving your router, you can get ethernet cables up to 100m long so by no means are you restricted to the 1m cable you probably have.

 

Badge

Hi @scottyboi08 

You could use a Boost, yes, but we only recommend you purchase one of those if you cannot get an ethernet cable to a Sonos player, as a wired player will perform the same job as the Boost.

As @Smilja says, that’s a telephone socket - you cannot connect Sonos to it, though yes, you may be able to get your router working there instead (though it should be kept 1m away from your TV and Beam).

 

What should I then do if I can get an Ethernet connected to one of the Sonos? Do I restart all devices, and then set them up. Could you give me instructions.

I did try it with my Play 1, but it then didn’t bring any of them up onto my controller, so didn’t think it would work, but maybe I didn’t follow the correct process.

Userlevel 7
Badge +18

Hi @scottyboi08 

You could use a Boost, yes, but we only recommend you purchase one of those if you cannot get an ethernet cable to a Sonos player, as a wired player will perform the same job as the Boost.

As @Smilja says, that’s a telephone socket - you cannot connect Sonos to it, though yes, you may be able to get your router working there instead (though it should be kept 1m away from your TV and Beam).

 

Hi @Stall 

You may be experiencing a different issue if your Android device is affected too. I recommend you get in touch with our technical support team, who have tools at their disposal that will allow them to give you advice specific to your Sonos system.

I think that’s a telephone socket though. So not sure if it would work or not…

 

It won’t work.

Badge

I think that’s a telephone socket though. So not sure if it would work or not…

If I could somehow create a wired connection with the beam, I’d imagine that would solve the issue, or I may have to get a Sonos boost.

I could ask BT to move my master socket to behind the TV.

@scottyboi08, Yes, you can also wire the Beam using an ethernet cable to the router or to a network socket.

 

If you don’t own a Move, remove afterwards the WiFi details from the system, they aren't required when the system is running over SonosNet.

On iOS or Android: From the Settings tab, tap System > Network > Networks. Select the WiFi network you'd like to remove, and tap Remove. Subsequently wait about 10 min, then go to Settings → System → About my Sonos system and see if WM:0 is being displayed next to each unit.

Badge

Or is there any way I could use the beam like a boost, if I could make a wired connection with one of these sockets behind it?

 

 

Badge

Hi @scottyboi08 

I completely understand how you feel, and sympathise, but Sonos cannot take responsibility for changes to 3rd-party hardware, software, or firmware changes. As mentioned, Sonos makes use of your network in ways that many devices do not, therefore our systems often highlight network issues that other devices do not. This does not mean, however, that we are culpable for those issues.

I don’t like telling people to spend more money in any situation, but if you’re looking for the quickest solution to this problem I can only recommend you replace your ISP-provided-at-the-lowest-possible-cost router for a 3rd-party device that will be more reliable. As you’re with BT, you will either need an ADSL router or configure your new router to use your existing router’s internet connection but run the local network itself. A mesh system (which expands the reach of your WiFi) will also act as a router and will also suffice (but these are typically much more expensive). If you do purchase a router, I highly recommend spending at least £60 on it (from previous personal experience) and go for a known brand.

A slower option would be to wait to see what BT are going to do - I’d certainly contact them if you haven’t already as the more people who do, the more likely they are to action a fix.

Finally, disabling 5GHz on your router, or wiring any one Sonos product to ethernet should bypass the issue for now.


Rather than buy a new router, wouldn’t a Sonos Boost not resolve my issue full stop?

Update: I remembered that I turned my Sonos One SL off and have kept it turned off, and then turned off the beam and play 1 this morning, and booted them both back up, and now I’ve just checked my app after writing the prior message, and low and behold, they’re both back fine. So it is the SL that is doing something to cause an issue, as the other two work fine without it turned on?

The Sonos One is the only Sonos device you have that’s willing to connect to 5GHz, and that’s what it’s doing. This is why it’s only this speaker that’s affected (and your iPhone, because it’s doing the same). So, if your iPhone is connected to 5GHz, you’ll presumably only see the Sonos One in the Sonos app. If your iPhone is connected to 2.4 GHz, presumably you’ll only see the Play:1 and Beam. This is a new issue, however, so some of this is supposition on my part. Which frequency band your iPhone connects to will mostly be dictated by it’s distance from the router, objects in the way (like walls) and possibly where the last successful connection to WiFi was found.

Although this seems to be the router at fault, it seems Android devices are not affected in the same way by this BT Smart Hub 2 issue, which, to be honest, is pretty weird. Presumably, that’s why we want anyone affected to call in and create a case so we can get metrics and data on the situation.

 

It affects my android device.

 

Totally useless for the last week and bit - almost ties in with the new android update to the sonos app. Coincidence??

 

No idea if my smarthub 2 has had a recent firmware update. Any idea how i would find that info?

Userlevel 7
Badge +18

Hi @scottyboi08 

I completely understand how you feel, and sympathise, but Sonos cannot take responsibility for changes to 3rd-party hardware, software, or firmware changes. As mentioned, Sonos makes use of your network in ways that many devices do not, therefore our systems often highlight network issues that other devices do not. This does not mean, however, that we are culpable for those issues.

I don’t like telling people to spend more money in any situation, but if you’re looking for the quickest solution to this problem I can only recommend you replace your ISP-provided-at-the-lowest-possible-cost router for a 3rd-party device that will be more reliable. As you’re with BT, you will either need an ADSL router or configure your new router to use your existing router’s internet connection but run the local network itself. A mesh system (which expands the reach of your WiFi) will also act as a router and will also suffice (but these are typically much more expensive). If you do purchase a router, I highly recommend spending at least £60 on it (from previous personal experience) and go for a known brand.

A slower option would be to wait to see what BT are going to do - I’d certainly contact them if you haven’t already as the more people who do, the more likely they are to action a fix.

Finally, disabling 5GHz on your router, or wiring any one Sonos product to ethernet should bypass the issue for now.

Badge

This whole thing is ridiculous really. I’ve paid £150 for a speaker that I now don’t want to use, because the moment I switch it on, it’s going to blow my whole system. So what do I do from here? It could be months, to years, before Sonos or BT solve this issue. I would’ve been better getting another Play 1 thinking about it...

Hi, I’ve been directed here from another thread.  Although my problem is different to the one above, disabling 5ghz on the BT router has solved the problem. Obviously I’m now having problems with speed. 
 

I would also like to add that country to the above comment my problem is also affecting android version of the app. 
 

hope this helps in some way. 

Update: I remembered that I turned my Sonos One SL off and have kept it turned off, and then turned off the beam and play 1 this morning, and booted them both back up, and now I’ve just checked my app after writing the prior message, and low and behold, they’re both back fine. So it is the SL that is doing something to cause an issue, as the other two work fine without it turned on?

The Sonos One is the only Sonos device you have that’s willing to connect to 5GHz, and that’s what it’s doing. This is why it’s only this speaker that’s affected (and your iPhone, because it’s doing the same). So, if your iPhone is connected to 5GHz, you’ll presumably only see the Sonos One in the Sonos app. If your iPhone is connected to 2.4 GHz, presumably you’ll only see the Play:1 and Beam. This is a new issue, however, so some of this is supposition on my part. Which frequency band your iPhone connects to will mostly be dictated by it’s distance from the router, objects in the way (like walls) and possibly where the last successful connection to WiFi was found.

Although this seems to be the router at fault, it seems Android devices are not affected in the same way by this BT Smart Hub 2 issue, which, to be honest, is pretty weird. Presumably, that’s why we want anyone affected to call in and create a case so we can get metrics and data on the situation.

 

Userlevel 7
Badge +18

Update: I remembered that I turned my Sonos One SL off and have kept it turned off, and then turned off the beam and play 1 this morning, and booted them both back up, and now I’ve just checked my app after writing the prior message, and low and behold, they’re both back fine. So it is the SL that is doing something to cause an issue, as the other two work fine without it turned on?

The Sonos One is the only Sonos device you have that’s willing to connect to 5GHz, and that’s what it’s doing. This is why it’s only this speaker that’s affected (and your iPhone, because it’s doing the same). So, if your iPhone is connected to 5GHz, you’ll presumably only see the Sonos One in the Sonos app. If your iPhone is connected to 2.4 GHz, presumably you’ll only see the Play:1 and Beam. This is a new issue, however, so some of this is supposition on my part. Which frequency band your iPhone connects to will mostly be dictated by it’s distance from the router, objects in the way (like walls) and possibly where the last successful connection to WiFi was found.

Although this seems to be the router at fault, it seems Android devices are not affected in the same way by this BT Smart Hub 2 issue, which, to be honest, is pretty weird. Presumably, that’s why we want anyone affected to call in and create a case so we can get metrics and data on the situation.

Badge

Update: I remembered that I turned my Sonos One SL off and have kept it turned off, and then turned off the beam and play 1 this morning, and booted them both back up, and now I’ve just checked my app after writing the prior message, and low and behold, they’re both back fine. So it is the SL that is doing something to cause an issue, as the other two work fine without it turned on?