Dead Play:5 need schematics or tips


Hi

Play:5, manufacturing date sometime around 2009, is completely dead. No light in LED.

Found several cases of this online, but no solutions.

Does anyone have any knowledge about the problem, og better yet, schematics..

I mainly suspect problem in switch mode power supply. Have only done very basic measuring, but I find 220VAC on primary side, no power on secondary side. I think about ordering a mosfet, and/or a diode I suspect, but if I had schematics I could do some more pinpointing..

155 replies

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I look all the time for the spare part, I've also looked at another box of mine, it says "E43 955B". So apparently this 955B is a kind of article number. And when I look at these numbers and add onsemi as the manufacturer, according to their products I always come to 1SMB5955B, with the first 5 probably indicating the tolerance.I don't know a lot about electronics and their spare parts.Am I doing something wrong with my search or what would happen if I put this part in and it's the wrong one?

Hi all,

I would love some help debugging my unfortunately broken play 5 gen 1. I got off the phone with sonos and the best they can do is repair it for the same cost as basically buying a brand new one. I really don’t want this to go to landfill but I’ve exhausted my expertise on this device. 

 

symptoms: 

AC side of the device: OK - I get roughly 320V DC from the bridge rectifier.

I get a range of voltages supplied to the PWM chip from 9-20V. Oscillating at roughly a 4 second frequency.

the output side of the transformer is sitting at 2V roughly. I think this means that the mosfet is okay which switches the transformer. Pointing me back at the PWM chip. 
 

Current attempts at solving the problem:
 

I’ve poked and prodded at all the small resistors but wasn’t able to find any broken ones next to the PWM chip or on the feedback loop to it. I can’t work out what type these transistors are so I can’t test them.

 

ive replaced the PWM chip and get the exact same functionality as before. 

Does anyone have any advice on how to verify these transistors? Or anyone fixed a device with similar problems and have some debugging advice on how to break the problem down into smaller search area. 
 

Thanks! 

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I look all the time for the spare part, I've also looked at another box of mine, it says "E43 955B". So apparently this 955B is a kind of article number. And when I look at these numbers and add onsemi as the manufacturer, according to their products I always come to 1SMB5955B, with the first 5 probably indicating the tolerance.I don't know a lot about electronics and their spare parts.Am I doing something wrong with my search or what would happen if I put this part in and it's the wrong one?

That matches the labelling I had found, so I guess it is the right part.

How do you actually know it’s broken?  It can be hard to confirm bad components when in circuit.  You might want to try removing it and then check it for continuity, and test using diode mode on your meter in both directions.

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I get a range of voltages supplied to the PWM chip from 9-20V. Oscillating at roughly a 4 second frequency.

 

There are few examples in this thread about finding various broken components, where replacing/repairing them fix similar symptoms to what you have.  However, I have seen some bad Play:5 boards that I was never able to find the bad component and was unable to fix.

I’d recommend replacing the power supply.  It’s pretty cheap to install a 24v DC power supply (either external, or inside the case if you can get one to fit).  You would need a 24V->12V converter to provide the 12V supply too.  All of this is probably under $30.  This is described on this forum (I think in this thread but not certain).

 

Hello, 

i have another Problem with my Play 5 Gen 1.

One of the Middle Speakers is Not working. I have buy the speaker as "completely dead", repared it and i dont know if the speaker is working before. Is there any idea what i habe to check? The rightmiddle speaker is Not working. 

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What is the nature of the repair that you did? 

I have seen units that have one of the five audio amplification channels die. It is usually the bass that goes, if I recall correctly.  That's what it sounds like your problem may be.  There is no straightforward repair that I know of.

 

I have replaced the Fuse and the rectifier and it words. Additionally i have replaced the five 820uF capacitors and two others. Now all works, but only the right middle speaker isnt working. I cant see any damages and all resistors etc working. Can you give me a notice where the damage can be?

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Hi folks, the volume on my box is very low. I've already checked the resistors and changed the APM4307... but it's still very quiet.How do I recognize a defective transistor?And could someone tell me how big the capacitor C27861 is or which diode D27706 it is or how I can check,if the diode is defective?
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I tested the resistors in front of the Q27621, they are all ok. But D27721 has 0.5 V in the forward direction, the value keeps increasing in the opposite direction.Think it's broken. Does anyone know what replacement parts I need?

Hi,

This is probably the best repair resource for this speaker on the internet.

Just thought I should add to the repository.

The Switching ICs power was pulsing and nothing came out of the power transistor.
The problem was that R21812 was open, i stole a picture from this forum to circle the component.

 

Thanks to everyone on this forum.

 

My right middle Speaker is not working. What can i check? I dont find the fault

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I have replaced the Fuse and the rectifier and it words. Additionally i have replaced the five 820uF capacitors and two others. Now all works, but only the right middle speaker isnt working. I cant see any damages and all resistors etc working. Can you give me a notice where the damage can be?

There is no easy way to find the problem that I know of.  You will see that there are 6 similar paths through the image that you posted.  One of these paths likely has a problem:

It’s been a while since I looked at this, but I think that 4 of these are for the 2 mids and 2 tweeters.  For the last two (on the right by the look of it), there are two drivers for the woofer.  You need to find the path that is for your bad speaker, and look at that circuit to (hopefully) find something broken.  You can trace from the speaker to the white connector at the top of the image to figure out which path is broken.

I posted a long time ago an image on this board (probably this thread) where I found a broken traces which I fixed by bridging.  You could have a similar problem, or it could also be a bad transistor closer to the capacitors.  I think that there was a problem like this (a bad transistor) as well in this thread.

 

Hi together.

 

I managed to repair a play 5 with power poroblems. Fuse, Rectifier and Caps were good, so i checked the whole thread here and found the problem. R27794 and R27796 were open.

 

Now i purchased another one. Poor speaker quality.

Sub and one middle speaker are working. So i opened it up and found it pretty easy.

unfortunately, i don´t find those parts. Maybe someone could help?

 

 

 

Q27202 and Q27204 are done. some caps too.

 

Thanks

 

 

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Sub and one middle speaker are working. So i opened it up and found it pretty easy.

unfortunately, i don´t find those parts. Maybe someone could help?

 

Did you mean that the sub and middle speaker were NOT working?  Or that the other 3 weren’t?

In any event, I had a look on some dead boards I have.  Those chips were marked G64 on the first board I looked at.  That is a P-Channel Enhancement Mode MOSFET DMP3050LVT https://www.diodes.com/assets/Datasheets/DMP3050LVT.pdf

 

Thank you so much!!!

 

3 speakers are not working. sub and one middle are working.

i didn´t find these mosfets (in small quantities) in europe, so i´m gonna order at aliexpress. estimated delivery date end of may…

 

 

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Thank you so much!!!

 

3 speakers are not working. sub and one middle are working.

i didn´t find these mosfets (in small quantities) in europe, so i´m gonna order at aliexpress. estimated delivery date end of may…

 

 

Mouser doesn’t have this in stock for me (in Canada) either, but they have this: https://www.mouser.ca/ProductDetail/Diodes-Incorporated/DMP3105LVT-7?qs=T%2FOtf55vL7eU%252Ba2ENkxGkA%3D%3D

Looks like it may be compatible.  It has some different specs, but it’s cheap enough that I’d be inclined to try it out rather than wait 2 months...

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I have no idea, but can tell me somebody, what part it is,it is brocken. There is writtrn "2F8".

 

 

I found an old Play:5 board, and this was labelled 2fx on the one I found.  That also doesn’t come up, but if I had to guess, I’d say it is an NPN transistor BC850W.  That’s based on the ‘2f’ part of the code(s), and the fact that it’s an SOT-323 device.  https://www.s-manuals.com/smd/2f

 

Thank you for your tip. I look again and you are right, its 2fx written on the Pieve. But it is to small, so i think,its an SOT 23...so what could it be?

Seems I’m in the right place. 
Play:5 2nd gen

lower 3 speakers work fine. Top left & right outer speakers very faint. Top center tweeter doesn’t seem to output at all. 
audio pcb board doesn’t seem to show anything with obvious damage. All visible capacitors seem fine. 
thoughts?

SO… My success 2 days ago inspired me to have another look at the two other dead units that I have.

I found a common problem to both of them, and got both working!

I had looked at everything in the high voltage section of the power supply, and couldn’t find any bad components.  Despite this, the devices were both not working, and on closer inspection were resetting about once every 5 seconds… There was power ramping up, and just as it hit 20V in the driver power to the IC, it would fall back to 10V or so and start over. This is a problem that others have had on this forum (and in this thread).

I looked at the datasheet for the PWM (ICE2QS02G), and realized that I had not checked the feedback section of the circuit.  This is the bit on the ‘other side’ of the opto-isolator.  Most of this part of the circuit is buried in glue, but sure enough, when I checked the resistors there, both of my devices had bad resistors in the same spot!  The resistor in question is a very small surface mount, with the marking “68b”.  Looking in the EIA listings , this is a 4.99k resistor.  Both of my devices had open resistors.  I added 1/8 watt 4.7k resistors (I didn’t have 5k), and lo and behold both devices now work.

The lower value resistor did have the effect of making the device run at 13V/26V instead of 12V/24V.  I don’t see this as a problem, as there are several EH31 regulators on the board, and the only thing (I think) that would be driven directly by these voltages would be the actual audio amplifiers.  Those should be tolerant.

Bad resistor -- preventing boot
new resistor -- fixed boot issue and device works great now!

 

This was my problem too! Main caps, rectifier etc. were all good, but this resistor was open circuit. Put a 4k7 across it and the unit now works perfectly!

 

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Hi folks, I haven't continued to build on the Play 5 for a long time, but now it's going on.After replacing the bridge rectifier, the fuse, the mosfet and the PWM, among other things, it is now the case that when I check the PWM in diode mode, the correct values ​​are displayed everywhere, except when I measure PIN8 and PIN 4. My other box shows 0.78V, now the broken box shows OL.I believe it's called Voltage Drop.Can someone help me and tell me what could be the reason that nothing is displayed to me? I have already measured everything on HV, everything seems to be correct.And in general, what influences a voltage drop?Diodes, resistors, capacitors?

Thank you.

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Also the Voltag drop between PIN 1 and PIN4 at the rectifier is wrong.

 

What could it be or is it the same fault as at the PWM?

After 2 weeks, i found a failure. First both mid speakers were dead.

After replacing this cap

the right mid speaker worked again. But not the left one. i had almost every part in my hands until i found it. one mosfet had a slightly different voltage drop when measuring. Replaced it and YEAH!!!

 

The pics are taken of a spare mainboard, so don´t wonder about the black holes and missing parts.

Today i started the repair of my first gen2. I saw similar pictures in this thread, unfortunately without solution… Maybe one of you has an idea.

The speaker works with 24V injected. So it´s worth trying.

Has anyone succesfully repaired this?

Thanks, Flo

 

 

My Play:5 working again. If nothing helps you can power it with an external adapter.

My setup: 

  • A laptop power adapter (20V - 6A)
  • DC-DC converter (24-12V)
  • DC connector (female)

The power is enough for max volume and there is no problem.

Thanks for the advice.

 

 

You beat me to it by a few hours!  Nice job!

I just repaired mine too.  I ordered a 24V/4A power supply very cheap on AMazon… $18CAD https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B08NYHM4J9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 .  I chose this one because it was 250 grams, approximately 95 watts, and the size seemed like it would fit -inside- the case.

I had a few DC-DC converters on hand like this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07Y88RTXJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was fortunately able to fit everything inside the case.  I piggybacked the 120V supply to the AC-DC supply from the existing socket, and connected my DC-DC converter at the triple inductor like I had suggested a week or so ago.  I opened the power supply case, removed the existing wires, and soldered it all in directly.  I had to trim the two bass reflex ports about an inch, and was able to position the brick just below those centered between the two mid speakers at the back of the case.  I wrapped the PS brick it in a sheet of foam to avoid vibration.  It’s a snug fit, but everything went together perfectly.  There is no vibration, and I can’t tell the sound difference between this and an unmodified speaker.

 

@timc995 , @mesahin , sound like a practical solution . i’m a complete electronics novice but have a soldering iron and planning to deploy it :).  i have a 12v 5a and a 24v 5a supply, do i connect both negative lines to ground and the +12V and +24v as below?

 

Can anyone help clarify  if the below diagrams look correct, completely unsure where the -12 V and -24V lines go to,?  both to ground?

 

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