I have read lots of threads here and on Reddit with naysayers indicating that Sonos does not work well as your home computer speakers and this is simply not true. If you have the budget, there is nothing that even comes close to Sonos for immersive sound for gaming etc.
I have been using Sonos as my go-to surround sound speaker system for my PC for the past 4 years without issue. I have also installed them through various versions of Windows without issues. The installation procedure is as follows:
If you do not have a Sonos system already go to step 2 below. If you do have a system already then you need the app on a tablet, phone or other device that is different from where you are going to install the computer Sonos system.
**Needed - 1 x Playbar or Playbase, sub if required and surround speakers (play 1 or 3) if required. Computer needs a sound card that has an optical output (most do). Make sure you have a random old remote around that has a volume control on it. Need an Ethernet connection for the Playbar/Playbase and a working Wi-Fi network (2.4ghz)**
**Make sure to create a new account with Sonos that is different from your other setups if applicable**
1. You need the Sonos app for your "other" system(s) on another device such as your iPad, phone or other computer so that you do not lose those setups.
2. If not new, factory reset your Sonos gear
3. If installed, delete the Sonos app from your computer
4. Connect Playbar/Playbase to internet and optical output from PC
5. Reinstall the app, launch it and when it asks, select "new system"
6. Name the room something that is not already being used in your home (can be whatever if this is your only Sonos system)
7. Go through the set-up screens and install the bar/base, sub (if required) and surround (if required)
8. Follow the program and set up the sound
9. Play the test pattern and everything should be good so far
10. Trick the app that you are not using a TV by using some old random remote and click on the volume button when requested.
11. Answer the question "saw the volume bar" or "saw nothing"...don't choose the 1st option or you will need to start again
12. Register the speakers when asked.
13. If you get errors registering the speakers, close the program and reopen it. Log in and register the speakers
You now have earth-shaking sound for your games! You can max out the volume on your PC and use the remote that you set up to control the volume or use the Sonos program for that. If you want to use your keyboard keys to control the volume instead, lower the output on your sound card and max out the Sonos program...either works well.
You can now use your computer to watch movies with surround sound, link to music services via the program or simply play games etc with amazing sound! My setup is a Playbar, Sub and 2 x Play 3 for surround.
Hope this helps everyone!!!
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Quick update:
- I bought The soundblaster Omni 5.1;
- Installed Windows 10 on PC
- Bought 2x Sonos one (for surround)!.
p.s. I can't control sound through my omni and/or windows (i.e. I have to control seperately from each app / each youtube video / spotify etc. I can't use the soundmixer to mute all (if I set sound to 0 I still get sound ...) I also can't use the functions for volume up/down/mute on my keyboard or omni device). Any tips on how to fix that?
Thanks in advance!
Sorry for very late response. I'm glad you have a full surround setup, and I hope you're enjoying it. How do the games, movies and TV shows sound now? 🙂 Can you please do a comparison for others here of using 2ch PCM vs DD 5.1 output on the same Sonos setup, especially with surround sound content? Was getting the Soundblaster Omni worth it?
So, I use Asus U7, and it's a bit different. I have an app that comes with the soundcard that offers pure stereo output (PCM), and then let the receiver(Sonos) handle it, I have the option of outputting 2 channels in 5.1 mix(DD 5.1), effectively muting center, rears and sub, and there are a few software mixing modes. When playing music, it depends really. I have my PC next to my TV, so when I play from PC to Sonos is when I'm using the TV as screen for gaming or movies, and don't play music via optical to Beam. All the music I play is either streamed from the net or from my shared library from PC via Sonos Controller. So, I really don't know what to tell you there. And I don't yet have rears for Sonos, but soon I'll have that covered too. Try things out and stick to what sounds best...
Personally, I have an old, yet very decent integrated amp with again old, yet very decent 2x 40watt (RMS) speakers on my PC desk that I use with PC (again, using Asus U7, but analogue output). This is for my "critical listening" sessions (less and less by the day since buying Sonos), and since my analog output chain is almost completely flat (a difficult feat to match devices like that), I use in my hobbyists/amateurish audio/video editing as near field monitor system. And I use it when I want to be really, like obnoxiously loud, but that's hardly ever.
Usually, most optical outputs (TVs, DVD/Blu-Ray players, game consoles, etc.) don't have volume control by design. Drivers might implement that in some sound cards, but what I did is I use a TV remote. I use optical connection, but even if not, I'd disable HDMI-CEC and use IR sensor on Beam. Why? Well, glad you asked! :D
If you use HDMI-CEC, your TV needs to be on to control volume of the Beam. BUT, if you tell Beam to only use IR sensor, and train it with you TV remote (you might even look for an older remote that doesn't work with your TV to have a standalone volume control), it will respond to volume control in any situation, regardless what is the source audio.
Edit: Did you do TruePlay tuning? In my experience, it improves the sound quality quite a lot!
Quick update:
- I bought The soundblaster Omni 5.1;
- Installed Windows 10 on PC
- Bought 2x Sonos one (for surround)!.
p.s. I can't control sound through my omni and/or windows (i.e. I have to control seperately from each app / each youtube video / spotify etc. I can't use the soundmixer to mute all (if I set sound to 0 I still get sound ...) I also can't use the functions for volume up/down/mute on my keyboard or omni device). Any tips on how to fix that?
Thanks in advance!
I'd prefer to hear only beam when the source is stereo. When the source is 5.1, then I'd like to have the rear speakers kick in. Plus, when I watch non-blockbuster type content, I put on night mode and disable the sub. Sounds more "normal" that way
Hmm... so I will have to think twice in what order I buy what. I want to get the sonos one’s or the ikea bookshelf speakers (probably the one’s) I also listen a lot of music probably even more as watching series/movies. But I got all information now thanks to you and I only have to figure out where I want to put my money first 😉.
As I said though, for PC, if you have files that contain DTS encoded sound, try KODI. It has options (expert/advanced menu) to passthrough and transcode to Dolby.
But since you said I still need netflix app to get 5.1 even with the new sound card, what use does the sound card have for me now? Wouldn’t the soundcard only be an upgrade when I get more speakers (for the real 5.1 surround)?
Also, be sure to move the soundbar as fas away from you as you can without putting obstacles in front of it to allow for the directionality effect. It was designed to serve as a sound bar for a TV, meaning some distance from the viewer.
And every time you movie it, do a trueplay tuning. And try to elevate it a little bit if it is far back on the desk. The sound waves bounce off the desk panel in front of it, so if you elevate it a little bit, you reduce this reflection, and improve the sound quality. Also, the closer it it vertically to your ear level, the better it will sound.
edit: if you have win 8 or 10, windows netflix app will give you 5.1 in combination with the DDL soundcard.
edit 2: try netflix app on PS4 as well!
- upgrade to windows 10 (need to upgrade by the end of the year anyways since windows stops supporting windows 7);
- Get one sonos one (so google assistant can hear me clearly in the whole room) and one of the ikea bookshels speakers;
- when that is all complete will make setup: beam under monitor and the other two speakers behind me one left, one right;
- After all those purchases I will get the sound card, since I don’t play any movies through files at all, will stream a lot through netflix and sooner or later disney +;
- if I have any mor budget this year: a sonos subwoofer 🙂.
If you get windows 10, and netflix app, you still don't get surround out of Sonos unless you have a DDL soundcard. Only W10 + Netflix app + DDL via optical will get you 5.1 surround sound. or 5.0 if you don't have sub. But play around with bass setting in the Sonos app, you'd be surprised how good Beam is with bass.
For surround, if you feed the setup stereo, it will just extend it to rear speakers. It is still stereo, just from more places. You need DD 5.1 input into Sonos Beam to have proper surround.
Just out of curiosity, would you have surround when you watch television (and use the arc port in a television that has that) or would you still only get it from sources that output 5.1 DD?
I'd prefer to hear only beam when the source is stereo. When the source is 5.1, then I'd like to have the rear speakers kick in. Plus, when I watch non-blockbuster type content, I put on night mode and disable the sub. Sounds more "normal" that way.
As I said though, for PC, if you have files that contain DTS encoded sound, try KODI. It has options (expert/advanced menu) to passthrough and transcode to Dolby.
But since you said I still need netflix app to get 5.1 even with the new sound card, what use does the sound card have for me now? Wouldn’t the soundcard only be an upgrade when I get more speakers (for the real 5.1 surround)?
Also, be sure to move the soundbar as fas away from you as you can without putting obstacles in front of it to allow for the directionality effect. It was designed to serve as a sound bar for a TV, meaning some distance from the viewer.
And every time you movie it, do a trueplay tuning. And try to elevate it a little bit if it is far back on the desk. The sound waves bounce off the desk panel in front of it, so if you elevate it a little bit, you reduce this reflection, and improve the sound quality. Also, the closer it it vertically to your ear level, the better it will sound.
edit: if you have win 8 or 10, windows netflix app will give you 5.1 in combination with the DDL soundcard.
edit 2: try netflix app on PS4 as well!
- upgrade to windows 10 (need to upgrade by the end of the year anyways since windows stops supporting windows 7);
- Get one sonos one (so google assistant can hear me clearly in the whole room) and one of the ikea bookshels speakers;
- when that is all complete will make setup: beam under monitor and the other two speakers behind me one left, one right;
- After all those purchases I will get the sound card, since I don’t play any movies through files at all, will stream a lot through netflix and sooner or later disney +;
- if I have any mor budget this year: a sonos subwoofer 🙂.
If you get windows 10, and netflix app, you still don't get surround out of Sonos unless you have a DDL soundcard. Only W10 + Netflix app + DDL via optical will get you 5.1 surround sound. or 5.0 if you don't have sub. But play around with bass setting in the Sonos app, you'd be surprised how good Beam is with bass.
For surround, if you feed the setup stereo, it will just extend it to rear speakers. It is still stereo, just from more places. You need DD 5.1 input into Sonos Beam to have proper surround.
Alright then it is how I thought it was with the surround. For now DD 5.(1/0) has not my top priority, first I would like to expand the set, when that is complete I’ll get the sound card for proper surround 😉.
Just out of curiosity, would you have surround when you watch television (and use the arc port in a television that has that) or would you still only get it from sources that output 5.1 DD?
As I said though, for PC, if you have files that contain DTS encoded sound, try KODI. It has options (expert/advanced menu) to passthrough and transcode to Dolby.
But since you said I still need netflix app to get 5.1 even with the new sound card, what use does the sound card have for me now? Wouldn’t the soundcard only be an upgrade when I get more speakers (for the real 5.1 surround)?
Also, be sure to move the soundbar as fas away from you as you can without putting obstacles in front of it to allow for the directionality effect. It was designed to serve as a sound bar for a TV, meaning some distance from the viewer.
And every time you movie it, do a trueplay tuning. And try to elevate it a little bit if it is far back on the desk. The sound waves bounce off the desk panel in front of it, so if you elevate it a little bit, you reduce this reflection, and improve the sound quality. Also, the closer it it vertically to your ear level, the better it will sound.
edit: if you have win 8 or 10, windows netflix app will give you 5.1 in combination with the DDL soundcard.
edit 2: try netflix app on PS4 as well!
- upgrade to windows 10 (need to upgrade by the end of the year anyways since windows stops supporting windows 7);
- Get one sonos one (so google assistant can hear me clearly in the whole room) and one of the ikea bookshels speakers;
- when that is all complete will make setup: beam under monitor and the other two speakers behind me one left, one right;
- After all those purchases I will get the sound card, since I don’t play any movies through files at all, will stream a lot through netflix and sooner or later disney +;
- if I have any mor budget this year: a sonos subwoofer 🙂.
You have to get two identical speakers for surrounds, so either 2x Ikea, or 2x one, or 2x Play:1. Can't mix and match.
If you get windows 10, and netflix app, you still don't get surround out of Sonos unless you have a DDL soundcard. Only W10 + Netflix app + DDL via optical will get you 5.1 surround sound. or 5.0 if you don't have sub. But play around with bass setting in the Sonos app, you'd be surprised how good Beam is with bass.
For surround, if you feed the setup stereo, it will just extend it to rear speakers. It is still stereo, just from more places. You need DD 5.1 input into Sonos Beam to have proper surround.
As I said though, for PC, if you have files that contain DTS encoded sound, try KODI. It has options (expert/advanced menu) to passthrough and transcode to Dolby.
But since you said I still need netflix app to get 5.1 even with the new sound card, what use does the sound card have for me now? Wouldn’t the soundcard only be an upgrade when I get more speakers (for the real 5.1 surround)?
Also, be sure to move the soundbar as fas away from you as you can without putting obstacles in front of it to allow for the directionality effect. It was designed to serve as a sound bar for a TV, meaning some distance from the viewer.
And every time you movie it, do a trueplay tuning. And try to elevate it a little bit if it is far back on the desk. The sound waves bounce off the desk panel in front of it, so if you elevate it a little bit, you reduce this reflection, and improve the sound quality. Also, the closer it it vertically to your ear level, the better it will sound.
edit: if you have win 8 or 10, windows netflix app will give you 5.1 in combination with the DDL soundcard.
edit 2: try netflix app on PS4 as well!
Thanks, you keep on giving me good solutions 😉. My plan is as follows:
- upgrade to windows 10 (need to upgrade by the end of the year anyways since windows stops supporting windows 7);
- Get one sonos one (so google assistant can hear me clearly in the whole room) and one of the ikea bookshels speakers;
- when that is all complete will make setup: beam under monitor and the other two speakers behind me one left, one right;
- After all those purchases I will get the sound card, since I don’t play any movies through files at all, will stream a lot through netflix and sooner or later disney +;
- if I have any mor budget this year: a sonos subwoofer 🙂.
As I said though, for PC, if you have files that contain DTS encoded sound, try KODI. It has options (expert/advanced menu) to passthrough and transcode to Dolby.
But since you said I still need netflix app to get 5.1 even with the new sound card, what use does the sound card have for me now? Wouldn’t the soundcard only be an upgrade when I get more speakers (for the real 5.1 surround)?
You'd get surround for games for example. Even though you don't have surrounds(rear speakers), you'd notice difference like that you just noticed with PS4. The Beam is actually 3.0 soundbar, so you'd get some additional directionallity. If you only watch movies from files(!!!), you can use KODI to transcode and bitstream dolby via existing optical out. In this case, you don't need the soundcard.
Also, be sure to move the soundbar as fas away from you as you can without putting obstacles in front of it to allow for the directionality effect. It was designed to serve as a sound bar for a TV, meaning some distance from the viewer.
And every time you movie it, do a trueplay tuning. And try to elevate it a little bit if it is far back on the desk. The sound waves bounce off the desk panel in front of it, so if you elevate it a little bit, you reduce this reflection, and improve the sound quality. Also, the closer it it vertically to your ear level, the better it will sound.
edit: if you have win 8 or 10, windows netflix app will give you 5.1 in combination with the DDL soundcard.
edit 2: try netflix app on PS4 as well!
As I said though, for PC, if you have files that contain DTS encoded sound, try KODI. It has options (expert/advanced menu) to passthrough and transcode to Dolby.
Just listened to dolby digital 5.1 through my brothers ps4. The sound gets harder and clearer. It is indeed an upgrade from stereo. Checked with the app to make sure I got DD 5.1.
But since you said I still need netflix app to get 5.1 even with the new sound card, what use does the sound card have for me now? Wouldn’t the soundcard only be an upgrade when I get more speakers (for the real 5.1 surround)?
Edit: my netflix desktop app would have DD 5.1 then?
I see, I am using windows 7 still lol. But if I would get the Sound blaster Omni all sounds will be converted to DD 5.1 right? Found out that my brother has the older ps4, so I am going to test on that.
You need 5.1 source material to have 5.1 output. Also, all streaming services offer only stereo over web browsers.
As I said though, for PC, if you have files that contain DTS encoded sound, try KODI. It has options (expert/advanced menu) to passthrough and transcode to Dolby.
Try netflix app on that PS4, it should output dolby digital 5.1.
As I said though, for PC, if you have files that contain DTS encoded sound, try KODI. It has options (expert/advanced menu) to passthrough and transcode to Dolby.
Unfortunately, no. Netflix via browser is only stereo. As far as I know, all streaming services offer only stereo via web browser.
Edit: Fire TV stick does have 5.1 with Netflix. That's how I watch. Fire TV - > HDMI extractor -> HDMI to TV, Optical to Beam.
As for conversion to 5.1, you need 5.1 source material to get 5.1 output. Games need to support 5.1 to get true 5.1 out.
Edit 2: Solution for netflix: Get hdmi extractor, get netflix app for ps4. Connect HDMI to extractor, then optical to beam, and hdmi out to monitor.
As I said though, for PC, if you have files that contain DTS encoded sound, try KODI. It has options (expert/advanced menu) to passthrough and transcode to Dolby.
I see, I am using windows 7 still lol. But if I would get the Sound blaster Omni all sounds will be converted to DD 5.1 right? Found out that my brother has the older ps4, so I am going to test on that.
Yea don't think it is worth to stick money in those chinese extractors/converters for now. The soundcard should provide for the best daily music (I stream netflix, music (spotify), games and 90% of my content through pc). Every once in a while I watch a blu-ray so it ain't a must to get my PS4 hooked up. I did however find a workaround device that can get my ps4 an optical output if necessary.
Be sure to use Windows 10 netflix app from app store! That's the only way to get 5.1 surround sound when streaming via PC. Also, for Blu-Ray, if the disc uses DTS, you'll either get silence or stereo. But, XBOX one actually can transcode dts to dolby...
As I said though, for PC, if you have files that contain DTS encoded sound, try KODI. It has options (expert/advanced menu) to passthrough and transcode to Dolby.
I use HDMI extractor and I get DD 5.1 if the source puts out DD 5. YMMV
p.s. If my monitor would have had an ARC-out port, would it also have been stereo output or would I have been able to switch my pc and ps4 to DD?I don't know of a single monitor that has HDMI-ARC. In case of a TV with ARC, any content, be it smart tv app, hdmi 1, hdmi 2, etc. can relay audio via ARC. Something like this may be a solution for you:
https://www.amazon.de/Tendak-Umschalter-Extractor-Fernbedienung-Unterstützung/dp/B07KYHY5HP/ref=sr_1_20?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=SWPF56B5YPLL&keywords=hdmi+splitter+optisch&qid=1562526084&s=gateway&sprefix=hdmi+splitter+opti%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-20
But I cannot guarantee, all of these splitters and extractors are Chinese no-name models.
You sir are a live saver, this helped me put off a lot of stress. Almost had regreted buying the beam (since it would not have been compatible for me), but I am glad I can work around it like this. The sonos products are awesome!If Yamaha supported Google Play Music and Audible, I'd have returned my Beam and gotten their soundbar that has the ability to add wireless surrounds in the same way like Sonos. But Sonos has a superior software and much better support of various services, like Google Play Music.
By the way, check out Ikea-Sonos Symphonisk line. They will have $99 speaker that can be used as a surround speaker. The announced it mid-august. At 1/2 the price of One, it might be a good choice for a surround satellite.
Yea don't think it is worth to stick money in those chinese extractors/converters for now. The soundcard should provide for the best daily music (I stream netflix, music (spotify), games and 90% of my content through pc). Every once in a while I watch a blu-ray so it ain't a must to get my PS4 hooked up. I did however find a workaround device that can get my ps4 an optical output if necessary.
Thanks for the tip on the IKEA set!
I use HDMI extractor and I get DD 5.1 if the source puts out DD 5. YMMV
p.s. If my monitor would have had an ARC-out port, would it also have been stereo output or would I have been able to switch my pc and ps4 to DD?
I don't know of a single monitor that has HDMI-ARC. In case of a TV with ARC, any content, be it smart tv app, hdmi 1, hdmi 2, etc. can relay audio via ARC. Something like this may be a solution for you:
https://www.amazon.de/Tendak-Umschalter-Extractor-Fernbedienung-Unterstützung/dp/B07KYHY5HP/ref=sr_1_20?__mk_de_DE=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&crid=SWPF56B5YPLL&keywords=hdmi+splitter+optisch&qid=1562526084&s=gateway&sprefix=hdmi+splitter+opti%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-20
But I cannot guarantee, all of these splitters and extractors are Chinese no-name models.
EDIT: in case of a splitter like this, you'd still have to physically reconnect optical from splitter to soundcard. Still not an ideal solution...
You sir are a live saver, this helped me put off a lot of stress. Almost had regreted buying the beam (since it would not have been compatible for me), but I am glad I can work around it like this. The sonos products are awesome!
If Yamaha supported Google Play Music and Audible, I'd have returned my Beam and gotten their soundbar that has the ability to add wireless surrounds in the same way like Sonos. But Sonos has a superior software and much better support of various services, like Google Play Music.
By the way, check out Ikea-Sonos Symphonisk line. They will have $99 speaker that can be used as a surround speaker. The announced it mid-august. At 1/2 the price of One, it might be a good choice for a surround satellite.
p.s. been doing research on sound cards, since that seems to be the best option (since I don't know much about the HDMI-ARC converters) and does it need to be Dolby digital Live 5.1 or is Dolby Digital 5.1 also good enough?
Your current optical out can play Dolby Digital from movies for example (try playing Dolby Digital AC3 movie via VLC player(in options you have the ability to bitstream), or any surround sound movie via KODI that has been set to passthrough, and to transcode to dolby. The problem is that is pre-encoded content. DDL is a system that encodes system sounds in REAL TIME to dolby. So, DDL is a MUST for a soundcard. Also, make sure soundcard is compatible with Windows 10. Most DDL soundcards are older models, and might not have W10 drivers, or like some cards they have DDL on windows XP, Windows 7, but not on windows 10. They have the driver, but without ddl for W10. That's why I suggested Soundblaster. They seem to have that covered.
Thanks once again 😉.You're welcome!
Alright everthing is clear for me now. Just found out that when using a HDMI-ARC splitter, 99% of the time the sound that is on output can only be played on 2 channel (stereo) so that ain't worth it. Think I will buy the Creative Sound blaster omni since that would be most convenient (through USB).
Unfortunately I can't use my Switch and/or my PS4 on the sonos system for now.
p.s. If my monitor would have had an ARC-out port, would it also have been stereo output or would I have been able to switch my pc and ps4 to DD?
You sir are a live saver, this helped me put off a lot of stress. Almost had regreted buying the beam (since it would not have been compatible for me), but I am glad I can work around it like this. The sonos products are awesome!
p.s. been doing research on sound cards, since that seems to be the best option (since I don't know much about the HDMI-ARC converters) and does it need to be Dolby digital Live 5.1 or is Dolby Digital 5.1 also good enough?
Dolby Digital is a format, Dolby Digital Live is encoder implementation what you need to encode 5.1 system sound to Dolby Digital format in real-time.
Your current optical out can play Dolby Digital from movies for example (try playing Dolby Digital AC3 movie via VLC player(in options you have the ability to bitstream), or any surround sound movie via KODI that has been set to passthrough, and to transcode to dolby. The problem is that is pre-encoded content. DDL is a system that encodes system sounds in REAL TIME to dolby. So, DDL is a MUST for a soundcard. Also, make sure soundcard is compatible with Windows 10. Most DDL soundcards are older models, and might not have W10 drivers, or like some cards they have DDL on windows XP, Windows 7, but not on windows 10. They have the driver, but without ddl for W10. That's why I suggested Soundblaster. They seem to have that covered.
Thanks once again 😉.
You're welcome!
My guess for HDMI-ARC you linked to, it gets audio from TV via ARC. So, the hdmi OUT on the extractor is actually also audio in via ARC, and then it will output that sound to optical. But it's a guess, I haven't used that. Plus, the page is in Dutch, and I don't understand a lick of it
I see, as far as I can tell these converters put HMDI in from TV and then create a HDMI-ARC output, so I could link the sonos bar with the HDMI cable (no optical needed).
EDIT: call my unlucky. Just found out that Sony decided to cut the Optical output on the PS4 Slim models (it is on the PS4 first gen and the PS4 Pro). Guess what model I own 😞.Sorry to hear that... But if you get the HDMI extractor, and connect your beam to it via optical, you should get Dolby Digital...
Does your TV have optical out? Set Playstation to Dolby digital (not dolby digital plus!!!!) output via HDMI, and try setting your TV to output Dolby via optical.
My tv and ps4 both do not have a Optical output, since my ps4 is the slim model and my ''TV'' is actually a really big gaming monitor lol.
p.s. been doing research on sound cards, since that seems to be the best option (since I don't know much about the HDMI-ARC converters) and does it need to be Dolby digital Live 5.1 or is Dolby Digital 5.1 also good enough?
Thanks once again 😉.
I'm not exactly sure how HDMI-ARC splitter works, but a non-arc extractor/splitter that I have takes the HDMI input (from source), and puts out whatever sound that is carried via HDMI and outputs it via optical, while forwarding both audio and video via HDMI out to the TV.
My guess for HDMI-ARC you linked to, it gets audio from TV via ARC. So, the hdmi OUT on the extractor is actually also audio in via ARC, and then it will output that sound to optical. But it's a guess, I haven't used that. Plus, the page is in Dutch, and I don't understand a lick of it.
edit: HDMI extractor will not convert any signal to a different one. If you put Dolby Digital in the stream via HDMI, it will output Dolby Digital via optical. If it is 2ch PCM, it will output PCM. If you put in DTS, it will output DTS via optical (but Sonos will not decode that, you'd get silence only).
Xbox and PS4 can output dolby(they have DDL implemented via optical and HDMI) via HDMI, and extractor will just take it and output it via optical.
EDIT: call my unlucky. Just found out that Sony decided to cut the Optical output on the PS4 Slim models (it is on the PS4 first gen and the PS4 Pro). Guess what model I own 😞.
Sorry to hear that... But if you get the HDMI extractor, and connect your beam to it via optical, you should get Dolby Digital...
Does your TV have optical out? Set Playstation to Dolby digital (not dolby digital plus!!!!) output via HDMI, and try setting your TV to output Dolby via optical.
Regarding is it worth getting the soundcard... That is VERY subjective. I got my second-hand cheap. Also, try playing PS4 in PCM stereo and Dolby and compare the differences. You have the ability to hear the difference, so that will help you decide. :)
edit: Personally, I don't have rears yet either, but I do have a sub. Dolby content does have a dedicated LFE channel, and it does sound better to me with a dedicated sub. Also, Dolby encoded seems to have better directionality than stereo, but this might be subjective. As I said, try for yourself with PS4, and pay attention to differences. Also, if you have an iPhone, iPod touch or iPad, do TruePlay tuning! Borrow one if you need. Re-tune it again if you move it. It affects the sound quality, especially in home theater (dolby content) use case!
Thanks a lot. You helped me a ton!!!
So if I am correct, to sum it all up, in order to get DDL 5.1 I will need a sound card that supports that. I could get a HDMI-ARC splitter, this will allow me to get pc, nintendo switch and ps4 (everthing plugged into the monitor) to send sound to the Sonos, however it will not be in DDL 5.1 since it cannot be transported through HDMI?
Thanks again!!
EDIT: call my unlucky. Just found out that Sony decided to cut the Optical output on the PS4 Slim models (it is on the PS4 first gen and the PS4 Pro). Guess what model I own 😞.
Please add Dolby Digital Live compatible soundcard to the needed items list in order to get 5.1 surround sound instead of just expanding stereo to more speakers. 🙂
You still need to generate Dolby Digital encoded signal on PC, and then output it via HDMI in any case, and for that you need modified drivers. So, the splitter will not be of any use in this case. But it is good to have it! I have an almost identical one to fix lip sync lag that my TV generates.
Regarding is it worth getting the soundcard... That is VERY subjective. I got my second-hand cheap. Also, try playing PS4 in PCM stereo and Dolby and compare the differences. You have the ability to hear the difference, so that will help you decide. :)
edit: Personally, I don't have rears yet either, but I do have a sub. Dolby content does have a dedicated LFE channel, and it does sound better to me with a dedicated sub. Also, Dolby encoded seems to have better directionality than stereo, but this might be subjective. As I said, try for yourself with PS4, and pay attention to differences. Also, if you have an iPhone, iPod touch or iPad, do TruePlay tuning! Borrow one if you need. Re-tune it again if you move it. It affects the sound quality, especially in home theater (dolby content) use case!
Regarding is it worth getting the soundcard... That is VERY subjective. I got my second-hand cheap. Also, try playing PS4 in PCM stereo and Dolby and compare the differences. You have the ability to hear the difference, so that will help you decide. :)
edit: Personally, I don't have rears yet either, but I do have a sub. Dolby content does have a dedicated LFE channel, and it does sound better to me with a dedicated sub. Also, Dolby encoded seems to have better directionality than stereo, but this might be subjective. As I said, try for yourself with PS4, and pay attention to differences. Also, if you have an iPhone, iPod touch or iPad, do TruePlay tuning! Borrow one if you need. Re-tune it again if you move it. It affects the sound quality, especially in home theater (dolby content) use case!
U3, U5, U7, X-Fi, and Omni are all USB sound cards. :)
They have their own drivers you need to install.
Try finding DDL in sound settings, I found a screenshot, look here: https://i.imgur.com/4oijLJG.png . you need to set output to Dolby Digital Live. Then, you get 5.1 output via optical. If you don't have this option, your motherboard does not support it and you need a new soundcard that has this option.
Seems Asus is abandoning their sound card line, so your best bet would be Soundblaster Omni in order to be future-proof. It is the newest one of the bunch, likely to receive driver updates the longest.
https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-omni-surround-5-1
Regarding HDMI, there are some workarounds, but these require use of modified drivers and disabling some crucial security features of windows for those to work. I don't recommended this personally, but you can try it at your own risk. Normally, sound over HDMI is uncompressed LPCM that can go up to 8 channels, but Sonos cannot use that signal. If you used a soundbar that had HDMI passthrough and supported multi-channel LPCM, or an AV receiver then you wouldn't have any issues getting 5.1 surround sound from HDMI.
edit: for PS4, just use optical out, and set optical to output dolby digital. :)
Thanks a lot! I use nintendo switch in handheld most of the time so that's no problem. And thanks for the tip on the ps4, that works! Would have been best if I had a screen with a ARC-output but unfortunately I don't. Also my pc does not have the DDL 5.1 option so I would need a soundcard.
The workaround seems like a lot of trouble. The thing I was talking about is the following: https://www.bol.com/nl/p/mini-hdmi-arc-adapter-audio-video-splitter-4k-3d-1080p-toslink/9200000077113009/?productId=9200000077113009&language=en this device should make a fictional HDMI-ARC port. If I am correct, would I be able to use ARC from screen, all devices (including PC) which are plugged into the monitor are channeled to the sonos beam?
Last question: is if worth to get the soundcard (to go DDL 5.1) with only the beam so far? (plan to get two sonos one's in the near future!).
Thanks in advance!
U3, U5, U7, X-Fi, and Omni are all USB sound cards. :)
They have their own drivers you need to install.
Try finding DDL in sound settings, I found a screenshot, look here: https://i.imgur.com/4oijLJG.png . you need to set output to Dolby Digital Live. Then, you get 5.1 output via optical. If you don't have this option, your motherboard does not support it and you need a new soundcard that has this option.
Seems Asus is abandoning their sound card line, so your best bet would be Soundblaster Omni in order to be future-proof. It is the newest one of the bunch, likely to receive driver updates the longest.
https://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blaster-omni-surround-5-1
Regarding HDMI, there are some workarounds, but these require use of modified drivers and disabling some crucial security features of windows for those to work. I don't recommended this personally, but you can try it at your own risk. Normally, sound over HDMI is uncompressed LPCM that can go up to 8 channels, but Sonos cannot use that signal. If you used a soundbar that had HDMI passthrough and supported multi-channel LPCM, or an AV receiver then you wouldn't have any issues getting 5.1 surround sound from HDMI.
edit: for PS4, just use optical out, and set optical to output dolby digital. 🙂
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