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Sonos Amp and High level input from Subwooder?


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I have a Sonos Amp, and a Definitive Tech Sub Pro 800 that has both the mono RCA LFE option (What is connected now) and also has the option to connect via high level input. Real Subwoofers have this too.

Can this work with the Sonos Amp? I searched but did not find an answer. So basically I’d connect my Def Tech sub to the left and right speaker channels of the amp, and then I would connect my 2 front speakers to the back of the sub.

Will that work or do I have to keep using the LFE? It’s for music, so I figured using the High Level input may sound better as the sub would get the same signal as the speakers, right? Or am I mistaken?

Thanks!
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Best answer by jgatie 10 April 2019, 14:28

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Sounds like audiophile snake oil to me (“tonal balance and timing cues”), but I guess it’s better to be open minded 🙂
Also, instead of a REL sub, I would get a Sonos Sub on returnable basis. It does a better job of integration with Connect Amp - and by extension I assume Sonos Amp - than any Sub I have used and for good music play, this integration is very critical.
Let extensive listening sessions then decide if you want to keep the Sonos Sub, after assessing the sound of the existing sub using both high level and low level connections.
In many respects, Sonos product design is for a target market that does not want/need such information or flexibility. Which is why audiophiles won't buy into Sonos, but I don't think Sonos cares about the consequent loss of that little market.
Same issue here guys, i have the Sonos AMP hooked up to 2 kef r300’s and i get decent 50hz bass, when i add the sonos sub, i find that the Sonos sub is not at all a musical sub sound, clonky. So i tried to add my ST11 Sub from Harman Kardon (200watt 10”) connected it to the purple tulip sockets. And almost no sound was coming out no matter what i played. Then i turned the crossover up a bit, to 100hz still not much. Then i turned the sub itself to the max value (analogue knob on the sub itself) then a little sound came out. I am used to play this sub with my onkyo txnr616 and i had rich bass even when the knob on the sub was set to 20%!!! So why is the sub out of the Sonos AMP so silent when it comes to outputting sub? What am i doing wrong? Sonos support doesnt know anything about this, cant help. I thought it was plug and play and bang i would have the Onkyo loud sub bass in my room, but its not even getting close!!! Its super silent... is this port not powerful enough? Am i connecting the ST11 wrongly? Who can help me out?
I think i found it, sonos amp only has a single mono sub out, and the purple line in on my TS11 sub is for LFE only!! Low frequency effect, Sonos amp does not send digital processed audio through that port! The manual of the Harman TS11 Sub reads this: if the receiver has only 1 port for sub out, connect the single cable either to the left or right line in!!!


Hello, have you already received a reply from sonos?


hi, i think i have a solution, rel arror solved the problem. Everything works great with sonos amp.

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Hi szymonmr,

Still working with them.  I suggest you open a new case and reference my case # (01446377).  The more people that log similar cases, the more likely Sonos is to take this seriously and do something about it.

They haven’t let me speak to an actual engineer, but the support rep Jaymes has been very helpful in relaying information.

At this point, we’re in wait-and-see mode.  They have all the documentation to prove this is an actual issue and all I can do is hope they enable an always-on option like my NAD had (they have the NAD documentation as well).  This doesn’t really consume much more power (maybe .5-1 watt).  The REL sub just needs a small amount of current on the posts to complete the circuit and eliminate the hum when the Amp goes into idle mode (aka “standby”).

 


Thank you very much, I will also report to sonos.

Hi @szymonmr 

What problem specifically did you solve by using Arrow?

I have a similar problem as discussed in this forum. I get a hum when connecting the Amp to a REL T5i using the high level inputs. When I use the RCA cable as indicated by REL the hum reduces massively but not completely. 

Guys forget it, it was the sonos sub on 0 iso 180 so it was cancelling the other bass, loads of bass now, ao forget about the extra sub on the AMP Sonos (when in correct fase and position) is amazing
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I’m having the same issue with my REL T/9i sub.  When the Sonos Amp goes into standby, 60hz hum ensues.  If I hit one of the Volume or Play/Pause buttons on the front of the Amp, the hum goes away for a few minutes but then returns.  While streaming music, there is no hum at all and sounds beautiful.

Before the Sonus Amp, The REL was connected to a NAD D7050 (same room, same wiring) and have reconnected it to make sure I didn’t cause the issue.  The issue is definitely with the way the Sonos cuts signal to the outputs when in standby.  Basically, the “loop” between +/- in the high-level output is cut, so we end up with a ground loop.  If Sonos could provide an option/setting to enable signal to the outputs when in standby, this would solve the issue.  As the OP mentioned, using the low-level RCA connector is low gain and does not sound anywhere close to as good as using the high-level inputs on the REL.

I have a support ticket logged with Sonos to talk to an engineer.  Will let everyone know how that goes.  In the meantime, I have a workaround that makes the standby hum go away:

  1. Connect the high-level wires like normal (Sonos Right-Red, Left Red, Left-Black to REL Red, Yellow and Black respectively)
  2. Connect an RCA cable from the Sonus Sub output to the REL LFE/.1 port
  3. Go into the Sonus App: Settings → System → <Your Room Name> Amp → Sub Audio and turn off the “Sub” selector at the top.
  4. When listening to music, turn the LFE dial all the way down.
  5. When not listening to music, turn the LFE selector up until the hum goes away.  For me, this is 8 clicks.  Note that the hum may get louder as you turn the dial until you hit the magic spot and hum will go away.

Hope this helps those with the same issue until a permanent solution is available. 


I do not know if it works, I talked to the REL distributor today, he said to try connecting the subwoofer to a power outlet without grounding.

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Yeah that does reduce the hum to where it is barely noticeable but doesn’t eliminate it completely.  I haven’t yet tried just removing the ground prong from the sub’s power cable.  That would accomplish the same thing.  I just tried using one of these:

15 Amp Single Outlet Grounding Adapter UPC: 818897010022

It’s less than a buck if you want to give it a shot.  Still doesn’t really address the root issue, though and not sure if there’s any long-term concern running the sub without a ground.

 

thank you for the information


you tried to connect with rel arrow

You are mistaken. The signal will be the same, the only difference being use of crossover on the Amp vs the crossover on the Sub (and those differences should be inaudible).
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The full signal input on a sub is usually for use with amps that don’t have a dedicated sub output. I think you’re better off continuing to use the Amp’s sub output, with the crossover frequency adjusted to suit your sub / your tastes.
In a high level connection you would wire your speaker terminals on the Connect Amp to the speakers as well as to the high level inputs on the Sub.
A cut paste on the alleged benefit of doing this:
"In fact, even if your preamp or integrated has a preamp/subwoofer output, you may want to consider using the high-level connection method. The most prestigious subwoofers in the industry are made by REL of England. They are the “Gold Standard” of the industry and priced accordingly, topping out at $9,000! REL recommends using the high-level input for all of their subwoofers. The reason they recommend this type of connection is as simple as it is logical: it ensures your subwoofer is seeing the EXACT SAME SIGNAL as your speakers. If you use the preamp/subwoofer output from your preamp or integrated, the signal seen by your subwoofer does not include the tonal balance and timing cues created by the amp. By using the high-level connection, the subwoofer gets the same signal as your main speakers, keeping them in better synch with each other, thus improving sound quality."
Easy enough to verify this claim if you have the time and the inclination to experiment.
Lol.
More on the theory of high level connections from the speaker terminals on the amp to both the speaker pair and the Sub:

"This might lead you to ask if there is any point using the high level connection, but for some there might be. Firstly there is a subtle difference between the crossover typically used in the high and low level connections. In simple terms, the crossover for the high level connection will usually use a more gradual slope, which in theory could lead to a smoother integration between sub and speakers, where the speakers are full range. This leads to the second important point. Speakers being run in full range mode will not crossover according to the setting in the processor, instead they will output material down to what ever frequency response they are capable of, so this is why the crossover on the subwoofer for the high level connection is more important. The crossover frequency should be matched to the natural low end frequency response of the speakers being used, and this will vary from speaker to speaker. If you are using small sats, then there seem little point in using the high level connection, but if you have larger more full range speakers, then for music this may be preferable. In my own experience, larger speakers will have their character changed when filtered by a processor at 80hz, and this can impact music negatively. If this is the case, then running the high level connection can restore the speakers natural character, while still allowing a subwoofer to improve the low end response, and the end result can be positive for musical listening experiences."

The point about high end being better for speakers that themselves go down deep with enough energy there seems to be a good one.

Again, easy enough to verify and decide for oneself.
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Ok, I had planned on getting a Rel sub and the high level connection sounded logical, sharing signal and blending with speakers, but if you guys say the LFE will give me the same signal and sound on the Amp, may not be worth it.

It made sense if lfe was more for home theatre, and the high level for music
Ok, I had planned on getting a Rel sub and the high level connection sounded logical, sharing signal and blending with speakers, but if you guys say the LFE will give me the same signal and sound on the Amp, may not be worth it.

No, high level connections from the amp terminals to both speaker pair and Sub will NOT give the same signal as using the Sub out socket of the amp to the low level on the Sub because the main speakers will now get all frequencies and not just those above the selected cut.
See my two preceding posts.
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Also, instead of a REL sub, I would get a Sonos Sub on returnable basis. It does a better job of integration with Connect Amp - and by extension I assume Sonos Amp - than any Sub I have used and for good music play, this integration is very critical.
Let extensive listening sessions then decide if you want to keep the Sonos Sub, after assessing the sound of the existing sub using both high level and low level connections.


I actually do have a Sonos Sub already, but I had it connected (in the same room) to a Beam and 5,1 setup for movie watching.

I have the Amp connected to two Bowers and Wilkins 685 S2, and a Def Tech Pro Sub 800. I use this for music.

The reason I got the def Tech sub was because I had briefly put the Sonos sub with the 685s, and really liked the way they made the speakers open up.

Not sure I want to get 2 Sonos subs in the same room, that’s why I tried something different with the Def Tech 800 and was considering a Rel Sub.

It made sense if lfe was more for home theatre, and the high level for music

LFE is for movies and is when the Sub is connected to the .1 channel on an AVR. In sound coded for movies, the deep sounding effects are contained in just that channel, which is connected to a Sub for reproducing everything contained therein. If a Sub is not so connected, the channel isn't heard at all - this, from my AVR use back in the day.
The sub out on the Connect Amp isn't LFE; it is a line level output for a Sub after stripping out frequencies above the cross over selected; note that in recording music in stereo, both channels contain all the content, there is nothing separately dedicated to low frequencies. And if nothing is plugged into the Sub out jack, all content will be passed on to the front speakers, with low frequencies then heard from them to the extent of the capability of front speakers to go low.
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It made sense if lfe was more for home theatre, and the high level for music

LFE is for movies and is when the Sub is connected to the .1 channel on an AVR. In sound coded for movies, the deep sounding effects are contained in just that channel, which is connected to a Sub for reproducing everything contained therein. If a Sub is not so connected, the channel isn't heard at all - this, from my AVR use back in the day.
The sub out on the Connect Amp isn't LFE; it is a line level output for a Sub after stripping out frequencies above the cross over selected; note that in recording music in stereo, both channels contain all the content, there is nothing separately dedicated to low frequencies. And if nothing is plugged into the Sub out jack, all content will be passed on to the front speakers, with low frequencies then heard from them to the extent of the capability of front speakers to go low.


Ok so just to make it clear, should I just keep the sub plugged into the Amp sub port and not worry about the high level? Just wondered if I’d get a better music experience, not that it’s lacking now