Connected ZP120 to 220V in 110V setting

  • 28 July 2009
  • 19 replies
  • 11759 views

Userlevel 2
I got a ZP120 in 110V mode and connected it to a 220V current. Now, unsurprisingly, it does not work anymore. I could obviously bring it in for repair but I am wondering whether I could take care of that myself in a more timely fashion. Obviously I will loose my warranty by opening the ZP but I don't mind as long as I know for sure that I can fix the problem myself (otherwise I would loose the warrenty AND not got the ZP working again!). Could someone tell me whether there is something simple like a fuse or so inside that I could simply replace?! Does anybody have experience? Sonos staff, can you help me? I am surprised anyway that the controllers ship with 110-220V adapters while the ZP have to be switched manually. But that is another discussion...
Thanks for any help!

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19 replies

Xpert Popo,

I'm not aware of any user DIY reports claiming to have recovered from plugging into the wrong voltage.

I suspect that the power supply is damaged by this type of accident and the issue is more than a fuse. The units were never intended for user disassembly and reassembly. For most DIY types, the construction is not straight forward. It is easy to damage the antennas and mess up the heatsink effectiveness.

If a unit has been disassembled, SONOS will not accept it for repair.
Userlevel 2
Buzz is correct. The best thing to do is contact Support and have it processed for repair/replacement.

http://www.sonos.com/support/contact
any solution dear experts in terms of DIY?
Userlevel 2
All other units switch between 110 and 230 automatically... and in the store they said it would be ok... What to do now??? Frustrating is an understatement
Badge +1
Take it back to the store tell them it stopped working forget to mention the power issue 🆒
Userlevel 2
I did manage to resurrect a ZP120 that I bought faulty from EBay. When I got it it would not power up, I don't know how it had been treated and whether the voltage switch had been mis-used but all the problem turned out to be was a blown internal fuse. Its a soldering job as its a sub-miniature fuse located just behind the power input socket and it requires a full dis-assembly of the entire unit (as per the ZP120 disassembly photos by ATOMAC that you will find via Google). The exact fuse to use is available from RS (in the UK) part number 377-2203.
Userlevel 2
Hi there! Congratulations fuzzyphelan

My ZP120 that I bought in Washington is fried because in Brazil it was in the 115 volts mode and not 220. There are warranty problems but worse, there is no Sonos aurhorized technical service.

So I should import the microfuse (which one?) and the power supply (which one?) and try to get a good technician.

Any sugestions? Best Regards! Adiaz
Userlevel 2
I received my ZP120 recently and did the same mess with 220V power on 115V setting. I used fuzzyphelan's instructions and disassembled the unit, found that fuse and used a thin wire instead, for now. I easily found a replacemenent on eBay, they sell from Hong Kong, $7 for 10 fuses with free delivery.
Userlevel 2
You might have found the following post useful - I went through the replacement process too :)

http://danonit.blogspot.com/2011/11/sonos-project-off-to-cracking-start.html

It's a shame it's such a pain to replace and not a removable fuse.
Userlevel 2
I did this and repaired as per the instructions. $10 on a Fuse ( well 10 of them ! ) and a small solder and away we go !!

Anyone forgets to switch follow Daniels link !!

Cheers
Userlevel 2
Very annoyed with Sonos... I have installed loads of Sonos gear with no problems, I ordered a connect amp from a UK retailer and 2 days later the parcel showed up. Opened the box, plugged it in, dead... Now most devices that use US voltage will have a US power adapter. This one had a UK plug.

Turns out the package was shipped from the states and the voltage set to 110 and I blew the internal fuse.

Firstly, I'm pissed off that there was no warning anywhere stating that you need to set the voltAge before plugging it in. As has been stated here its an expensive piece of kit.

Secondly, when I contacted Sonos tech support they said I would get a replacement, fine I thought, so I got the email for the RMA and it states the unit is out of warranty! Not only that but a second email comes in saying that the fault was created by user error, not failure of the unit, so now I have to pay to get the twatting thing repaired!

Very, very pissed off as I install a lot of Sonos kit and sing their praises... First thing Monday they will be getting a call from me and I won't back down until it's sorted for free!
Userlevel 2
I am in a very similar situation -- purchased from a UK retailer, with UK plug but apparently US product. Did you have any luck getting Sonos to take responsibility?
Has anyone taken this up with the UK retailer?
Hey guys,

I have the same issue, having blown the fuse. I've procured the fuse, seen ATOMAC's photo stream and read Daniel's blog on how he did. The only thing is a I can't get the top cover off. I've threaded string through the holes like Daniel suggest, but it is totally solid, and barely even bends when I pull it hard.
Can anyone else let me know how they managed to get it off?

Cheers

Daniel
Userlevel 4
Badge +14
Hey guys,

I have the same issue, having blown the fuse. I've procured the fuse, seen ATOMAC's photo stream and read Daniel's blog on how he did. The only thing is a I can't get the top cover off. I've threaded string through the holes like Daniel suggest, but it is totally solid, and barely even bends when I pull it hard.
Can anyone else let me know how they managed to get it off?

Cheers

Daniel


If you haven't seen a picture of the construction of the lid, you can find it here:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/at0mac/with/5336924138/

As you can see, there are 8 "pins" that holds it down. If it doesn't release when pulling, then you need to use a sharp tool to get between the aluminium and the lid. You can see the position of them in the photostream as well. A small sharp tool might leave marks, another option is to use a thin putty knife(?) like on this guide (for a mac mini)

https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/Mac+mini+Model+A1283+RAM+Replacement/1058

Do note that I haven't dissasembled a ZP120/Connect:AMP myself, but I have disassembled a few mac minis with this method.
Thanks Jishi,

That is definitely the right tool for the job. I'll pick one up and try it out.

I appreciate your help.

Daniel
Hi, i did the same mistake yesterday, pluged to 220 voltage whit the unit set in 115. I will contact a service, but not official cause here in ARgentina there is not official service. I want to know if everyone of you, that have the same issue, ended with the unit working after the repair, thanks!!