Blown up Connect Amp


Userlevel 2
I just connected my new Connect Amp to 240 V while the switch was set to 110V (I feel so stupid). I have removed the fuse and ordered a replacement. There is also a yellow disk that is fried which I suspect is a varistor ?. Can anyone confirm this for me and suggest a suitable type as there is nothing written on it. It is yellow and 16mm dia and 3.4 mm thick. It was located in between two large electrolytic caps next to another identical component. Thanks in advance for any ideas

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20 replies

Userlevel 7
Badge +21
I'm sorry if this is stupid, but where exactly can I find the fuse??? I opened up my connect amp and couldn't really find a replaceable fuse anywhere, any help appreciated, before I dismantle it any further...Thank you

This may provide you with the guidance you need:-

http://danonit.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/sonos-project-off-to-cracking-start.html
Hi
Same issue with the 110V switch in position and 230V supplied - It was a shocking sound and also smell. Metal oxid smoke told me there is more blown as a simple fuse.
I have decided to repair. When I opened the sonos zp120 i saw that MOV16002 with deffect. Everybody knows, what is the component?
I think that is varistor. (small yellow disc).

thanks Daniel, I recived TVR14241 and fuse 250V 5A. Replace that components, but when i testing, my problem is reapiting - it was a shocking sound and also smell.
May bee MOV16002 it`s varistor on 250V-275V?
P.S. SONOS YOU CAN PRINT RED LABLE NEAR 110/230 SWITCH :@:@:@
GBU808 diode posible broken, near varistor MOV16002.

I can connect to
nest remotely. Why not sonos?


Not sure what this has to do with a 4 year old thread about a blown Connect:Amp.
hi guys

I have had the same issue with the 110V switch in position and 220V supplied - It was a shocking sound and also smell. Metal oxid smoke told me there is more blown as a simple fuse. Well warranty would be gone anyways - so I have decided to repair.

Short story - it was successful and I can listen now!

I found Daniels 'onos-project-off-to-cracking-start' blog post very interesting in terms of steps - thanks again at this point.

I have found the 5AT Fuse was blown and also a metal oxid varistor TVR14241 (labelled as D16034, it is actually a yellow disc with a black shrink "coat").
TVR stands for thinking varistor resistance
It is a zinc oxid varistor; diameter is 14mm; 240V@1mADC, 0.6W, 900 pF

RS-Components stocked both items (very similar varistor 720-9958, 5AT fuse 377-2203) so I received them quickly. Well to my delight it solved the issue and the Sonos Amp now off to work!

Thanks for the people out there to share their experiences and approaches how to solve .. stuff.
Thanks for the help guys. It's great to know I'm not the only muppet to have done this. I have the spare fuses and varistors, but I can't for the life of me get the top of the zp120. How did you guys do it? I've tried threading string through the holes and pulling REALLY hard, but it's not budging.
Any tips?
Thanks

Daniel
Userlevel 2
I bought a used Z120 with an unidentified power issue. It was dead.

The 5A fuse is open. No other components show visible damage. When I shorted out the fuse to see if the amp would power up there was a momentary flash of light near the centre of the power board. I say momentary because I quickly opened up the fuse again.

It appears to me as if something arced or there is a short somewhere downstream of the fuse. Everything I measure with an ohm meter seems to react ok. The varistors near the large filtering caps are not shorted. Before I try to replicate the action of shorting the fuse again to see what is arcing I thought I'd see if anyone had any ideas as to the fault.

Also, has anyone created a schematic of the power supply?
Userlevel 2
Badge
I bought a used Z120 with an unidentified power issue. It was dead.

The 5A fuse is open. No other components show visible damage. When I shorted out the fuse to see if the amp would power up there was a momentary flash of light near the centre of the power board. I say momentary because I quickly opened up the fuse again.

It appears to me as if something arced or there is a short somewhere downstream of the fuse. Everything I measure with an ohm meter seems to react ok. The varistors near the large filtering caps are not shorted. Before I try to replicate the action of shorting the fuse again to see what is arcing I thought I'd see if anyone had any ideas as to the fault.

Also, has anyone created a schematic of the power supply?
Userlevel 2
Badge
Are there any photos available of the ZP90 power supply board? I have a dead, out of warranty ZP90 I am trying to repair and am looking for a schematic or photos.
Hi Gents ,
Unfortunately I have joined the club and had the voltage set incorrectly . I have now replaced fuse twice and replaced both metal oxid varistor TVR14241 (labelled as D16034, it is actually a yellow disc with a black shrink "coat"), that showed signs of being blown , with black "soot: surrounding area between the capacitors ?
Would appreciate any further thoughts, input , ideas , or even a schematic with some test values .

I would be very grateful for any input , guidance or assistance .

Regards

Rob
I'm sorry if this is stupid, but where exactly can I find the fuse??? I opened up my connect amp and couldn't really find a replaceable fuse anywhere, any help appreciated, before I dismantle it any further...Thank you
I can connect to
nest remotely. Why not sonos?
I can connect to
nest remotely. Why not sonos?

Because Sonos is a music system rather than home automation?
Userlevel 4
Badge +14
Most people seem to only need to replace the fuse. Maybe you would get a better response if you could post a picture of the component you are talking about?
Userlevel 2
Thanks for your reply. I tried to post an image but couldn't work out how to (I'm new to forums)
I'm satisfied its a varister and there are two. One is most likely for 110V supply and one is for 240 V supply. As I was switched to 110 when the Varister blew, its reasonable to think that the 240V one is fine so I'm going to try just to replace the fuse and pick a Varister around 130V and see how we go.
Thanks for posting previous threads that provided clues to opening the case and locating the fuse.
PeteSilk,

It's not so much a question of knowing how to post images on these forums, it is a permission issue. You'll need to post the image on a 3rd party site and give us a link.
Userlevel 2
Got it, thanks for explaining
Userlevel 2
Hi there, I had a similar issue. I replaced the fuse and the cap next to it, but when turning it on again it starts powering up for a second before the fuse blows again. Did you have any luck after you replaced the varistors
Userlevel 2
Pete - were you able to get your Connect Amp working?
What fuse did you use and where did you get it?
Userlevel 2
I had a metal dental tool with an almost right angle flat end. I inserted it through a hole and pulled hard. The cover came off. You have to pull hard. I picked a hole near a corner.