Hi,
I've recently acquired a ZP100 however it looks to be stuck in the boot process with a single white light flashing endlessly.
It doesn't appear responsive to holding the mute button on bootup. On powerup all of the network port light flash briefly and the connection lights are solid if wired to bridge via ethernet.
I know this is an old product and I know it is my fault for purchasing it, but is there any other reset tricks or way to update the firmware to get out of this loop?
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Unfortunately the CPU board won't boot all the way if it's disconnected from the amp. My guess is the kernel panics when it tries to load the DSP module and there is nothing there, or that Anacapad has some hard-coded calls to the amp board. If the unit gets to the point of requesting an IP address, some folks have had luck restarting it into factory reset while constantly pinging it. No idea why that works, but I've been able to replicate that behaviour.
Sorry for being late.
I managed to start my device I don't now how... So thank you poshul!
I plugged everything together, started wireshark... and it booted up... I also started to ping it so maybe the ping or maybe wireshark's listening on ethernet port made it alive.
I performed a factory reset and now it works and did not freeze since a day now.
What I discovered is the led flickering again. It's definitely power related. When the amplifier turns on from stand by, it starts to flicker. If I stop the music it flickers less but continues until the amplifier turns off again.
Anyone had something similar like me? Do you know what is it? Maybe a capacitor? I hope it's not the DSP chip, but I don't think so.
Thank you for your help!
kivulallo,
A bad capacitor is likely. At this point I recommend a very thorough visual inspection. Bad capacitors often give themselves away with physical signs of distress, such as leakage or bulges. Look for discolored areas and bad solder joints. A good visual inspection is worth many hours of troubleshooting.
I don't know the DC power supply voltages for ZP100, but you can probably guess them. If you have an oscilloscope, look at the power supply wave forms. Another technique if you have a digital voltmeter, is to set the meter to measure only the AC component, then check the DC power supplies. A high reading indicates ripple and a likely bad capacitor.
Another technique is to "thump" the boards with a plastic tool the weight of a common pencil. A healthy board will not respond to these "thumps". Quite often one can use lighter thumps and locate a defective component or connection. If you are unlucky the thumps will mechanically cause a temporary repair and the symptoms will go away -- for a while. You'll know that the problem is mechanical, but not exactly where.
A bad capacitor is likely. At this point I recommend a very thorough visual inspection. Bad capacitors often give themselves away with physical signs of distress, such as leakage or bulges. Look for discolored areas and bad solder joints. A good visual inspection is worth many hours of troubleshooting.
I don't know the DC power supply voltages for ZP100, but you can probably guess them. If you have an oscilloscope, look at the power supply wave forms. Another technique if you have a digital voltmeter, is to set the meter to measure only the AC component, then check the DC power supplies. A high reading indicates ripple and a likely bad capacitor.
Another technique is to "thump" the boards with a plastic tool the weight of a common pencil. A healthy board will not respond to these "thumps". Quite often one can use lighter thumps and locate a defective component or connection. If you are unlucky the thumps will mechanically cause a temporary repair and the symptoms will go away -- for a while. You'll know that the problem is mechanical, but not exactly where.
thank you for your suggestions buzz!
right now my unit works (with flickering led, power problems)
so i will use it a little while and then check all the boards.
the first reason is with a little usage the faulty part can show some physical signs of death and it can be recognized more easily...
the second reason is that i don't want to disassemble it's a long time and i will have to reassemble... 😃
right now my unit works (with flickering led, power problems)
so i will use it a little while and then check all the boards.
the first reason is with a little usage the faulty part can show some physical signs of death and it can be recognized more easily...
the second reason is that i don't want to disassemble it's a long time and i will have to reassemble... 😃
So my Zp-100 has the flashing white LED failure.
When I got it from Ebay, i first did a hard reset (plug it in with mute+VolUp heald down) and all was well.
It worked great for a few hours then I could not see it with the Sonos app.
I found that when this happened, if I would just let it cool and start over with the hard reset i could get it working for a short while. Always doing the setup with Ethernet only.
I then did a tear down and re-flowed the logic parts with no luck. (noticed lots of flux on the board, and bloby solder.. Less quality then I expected)
Started measuring the DC voltages and they seemed fine.
Then I started pinging the ZP-100 at the IP that the router would always give the ZP-100. The ping returns would follow the ZP's functionality. If I got a return, the unit was working and vice versa.
I tried some clod spray on the logic board and that made the functionality last a few minutes longer, noticing that the lights on the Ethernet port connected never changed their behavior weather the ZP was working or not.
So I tried the following and had some luck.
I sprayed my last few seconds (bottle just about empty) of cold spray on the Ethernet controller/transformer chip. and quickly did a hard reset and this time (and for the first time) set it up in the way that prepares the ZP for a wifi installation.
What I found was once the setup was done, the ZP shuts off the Ethernet controller (connected Ethernet port goes dark) and switches to wifi. The unit stayed on and connected all night, longest ever.
When I get home I will see if it is still connected and try a reboot.
Will let yall know what happens.
When I got it from Ebay, i first did a hard reset (plug it in with mute+VolUp heald down) and all was well.
It worked great for a few hours then I could not see it with the Sonos app.
I found that when this happened, if I would just let it cool and start over with the hard reset i could get it working for a short while. Always doing the setup with Ethernet only.
I then did a tear down and re-flowed the logic parts with no luck. (noticed lots of flux on the board, and bloby solder.. Less quality then I expected)
Started measuring the DC voltages and they seemed fine.
Then I started pinging the ZP-100 at the IP that the router would always give the ZP-100. The ping returns would follow the ZP's functionality. If I got a return, the unit was working and vice versa.
I tried some clod spray on the logic board and that made the functionality last a few minutes longer, noticing that the lights on the Ethernet port connected never changed their behavior weather the ZP was working or not.
So I tried the following and had some luck.
I sprayed my last few seconds (bottle just about empty) of cold spray on the Ethernet controller/transformer chip. and quickly did a hard reset and this time (and for the first time) set it up in the way that prepares the ZP for a wifi installation.
What I found was once the setup was done, the ZP shuts off the Ethernet controller (connected Ethernet port goes dark) and switches to wifi. The unit stayed on and connected all night, longest ever.
When I get home I will see if it is still connected and try a reboot.
Will let yall know what happens.
So no joy. Not sure if I just got lucky with the cold spray or what, but my failure mode if back.
Going to try to swap out the ram chips and see what happens.
Been thinking after reading all of these pages of info. And my thoughts always lead to, what is the root cause of these boot problems? Some seem to be able to reinstall firmware and it fixes it.
Is there a smoking gun in all of this?
Going to try to swap out the ram chips and see what happens.
Been thinking after reading all of these pages of info. And my thoughts always lead to, what is the root cause of these boot problems? Some seem to be able to reinstall firmware and it fixes it.
Is there a smoking gun in all of this?
All, a huge thanks for such an informative thread. Really useful and very interesting!
I've got a non booting ZP100 and I get the following output, at which point it just sits there doing nothing. does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance for any thoughts/help.
Rincon boot loader version 0.16-11080(ZP) (32M SDRAM). Press 'h' for help.
SDRAM test...
Memory test iteration 0
Boot interrupted
> h
Rincon boot loader version 0.16-11080(ZP) (32M SDRAM). Press 'h' for help.
h - help
m - SDRAM test
i - print NAND device ID
n - NAND device scan
x - NAND device destructive test
y - NAND device dump first page
p - Program NAND device
b - Boot the Linux kernel from NAND device
d - Boot diagnostics from NAND device
> NAND ID is EC:75
32M NAND flash (Samsung K9F5608U0C) detected
Section 0 is provisionally good, kernel on partition 1, generation 39
Section 1 is provisionally good, kernel on partition 4, generation 40
Attempting to boot kernel from partition 4
I've got a non booting ZP100 and I get the following output, at which point it just sits there doing nothing. does anyone have any ideas?
Thanks in advance for any thoughts/help.
Rincon boot loader version 0.16-11080(ZP) (32M SDRAM). Press 'h' for help.
SDRAM test...
Memory test iteration 0
Boot interrupted
> h
Rincon boot loader version 0.16-11080(ZP) (32M SDRAM). Press 'h' for help.
h - help
m - SDRAM test
i - print NAND device ID
n - NAND device scan
x - NAND device destructive test
y - NAND device dump first page
p - Program NAND device
b - Boot the Linux kernel from NAND device
d - Boot diagnostics from NAND device
> NAND ID is EC:75
32M NAND flash (Samsung K9F5608U0C) detected
Section 0 is provisionally good, kernel on partition 1, generation 39
Section 1 is provisionally good, kernel on partition 4, generation 40
Attempting to boot kernel from partition 4
So - I had the same issue white light flashing couldn’t connect and no IP address being taken (Wireshark showing zilch)
Years ago I used to fix car radios by putting them in the freezer for 2 days. Apparently clears the electronics.
So I thought what the heck I’ll try - so I put the ZP100 in the freezer for 2 days. Took it out tonight, powered it up (careful with the ice) and hey presto I can reset and it’s now connecting.
Fingers X’d it still works when fully thawed but it is working...
I know it sounds odd but this did work for me..
Years ago I used to fix car radios by putting them in the freezer for 2 days. Apparently clears the electronics.
So I thought what the heck I’ll try - so I put the ZP100 in the freezer for 2 days. Took it out tonight, powered it up (careful with the ice) and hey presto I can reset and it’s now connecting.
Fingers X’d it still works when fully thawed but it is working...
I know it sounds odd but this did work for me..
So worked fine over night to this morning, I needed to put the cover back on so unpowered and repowered to see if it would keep its settings and it has reverted back to the flashing white light again....
Rabbs, did you manage to upgrade it once it had booted??
HI. Where to download latest firmware for zp100(play5) and a100(sub) ?
Userlevel 7
+22
From your Sonos Controller, look under settings and Check for Updates.
Hi, I am aware of that option. The issue is that it is bricked.
Then I'd recommend a call to Sonos to discuss it.
If it's bricked, a download of firmware wouldn't make any difference, you wouldn't be able to load it. And Sonos doesn't post downloadable versions of their software as packages, they only have the online update option.
If it's bricked, a download of firmware wouldn't make any difference, you wouldn't be able to load it. And Sonos doesn't post downloadable versions of their software as packages, they only have the online update option.
Look through this thread for links. You should be able to download firmware from somewhere to your computer and then host on webserver and use UART cable to connect to sonos and then Update the firmware. But do not know where to get latent firmware. Good luck.
Hello everyone, I have a zp100 bought on eBay constantly flashing white, not pinged. also bought PL2303HX cable firm FTDI USB to TTL module data conversion adapter Arduino memory UART via RS232 I read the topic several times but did not understand how to update the firmware, and if possible, write a command line Windows. forgive me for my English.
Rincon boot loader version 1.0-27270(ZP) (32M SDRAM). Press 'h' for help.
SDRAM test...
Memory test iteration 0
SDRAM test complete
Attempting to autoboot from NAND device
NAND ID is 20:75
32M NAND flash (ST NAND256W3A) detected
Uncorrectable ECC error, page 0 (first half)
No valid partition table, defaulting to old boot mechanism
nand_load: page appears to be blank, page 512
Sorry, autoboot failed
nand dead?
SDRAM test...
Memory test iteration 0
SDRAM test complete
Attempting to autoboot from NAND device
NAND ID is 20:75
32M NAND flash (ST NAND256W3A) detected
Uncorrectable ECC error, page 0 (first half)
No valid partition table, defaulting to old boot mechanism
nand_load: page appears to be blank, page 512
Sorry, autoboot failed
nand dead?
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