This is the place to troubleshoot your Sonos hacks, advanced setups, and third party integrations. Be mindful of your products warranty, and that Sonos staff can't always assist in an official capacity here.
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Hi, I'm starting a new thread regarding this (old one here https://en.community.sonos.com/advanced-setups-229000/sonos-with-nodejs-my-attempt-33834) since that one grew out of hand. I have made some major improvements to the simple HTTP API that I've built, and it now also comes with a pre-composed raspberry pi image that runs from a RAM-drive (based on AlpineLinux) for even simpler installation. This software is useful for simple integration with home automation in mind, or for small hobby projects. For more information, see http://jishi.github.io/node-sonos-http-api/ File issues at github https://github.com/jishi/node-sonos-http-api/issues Have fun!
Hey Everyone, I was hoping someone could help me out. Currently, my setup is Turntable > Phono Preamp > Connect > Integrated Amp > Passive Speakers. That way when I play my records I can here it on all my Sonos Speakers in my house. However, does anyone know if there is a way to set it up as Turntable > Phono Pre Amp > Yamaha Receiver. And have the Connect plugged only into the receiver. I'm worried about the Connect effecting the Analog signal. Here's a picture of the back of my receiver. Thanks for the help.
I am trying to set up a new ASUS ZenWiFi AX6600 Tri-Band Mesh WiFi 6 System (XT8 2PK). However, Sonos devices will not appear on the network and do not show up on the Sonos App, even though they appear to be available. I tried the 3 different ideas posted in the forum, but still no luck. Wanted to see if anyone had new ideas on how to get this to work?
Hi My Sonos System comprises of: 7 x Play 1 (Connected via WIFI) 1 x Play 5 (Connected via WIFI) 1 x Play 3 (Connected via WIFI) 1 x Playbar (Connected via Ethernet to managed Cisco Switch) 1 x Sub (Connected via WIFI) Network: Virgin Media is ISP, router is set in Modem Mode 1 x Netgear Orbi RBR50 Router (In router mode) 2 x Orbi Satellites as AP's Orbi router is internet link to LAN Cisco Managed switch. Diagnostics code is 801541678 Music cuts out every minute or so. Internet 2.4ghz is on channel 6, tried sonosnet on 1,6,11 all with same result. Thanks in advance. Regards, Rik.
After 6 calls into Sonos I was told to get a managed switch to resolve the sudden loss of both Tidal and Spotify- the solution is/was unplugging the router wait 10 sec and all is good of a few hours days. Long story short I was told by the Sonos guys my Boost was veering way too much data and therefore I needed a managed switch to resolve Sonos would not provide a make or model just as long as it had the “snooping feature”. The setting provided where if no help Now I’m told I need to get ahold of a senior engineer Anyone one here have a NETGEAR managed switch? What settings are you using? Thanks Btw never had this issue till Moving to a new home
The last 2 months has been a disaster. Every since the alarm issue in Dec of 16 my system has gone to pot. Let me clarify that I've been with Sonos as an early adopter probably close to 10 years now so I've got experience in how it used to be. I have multiple units including 1 soundbar, 1 sub, 6 plays, 7 connect amps, 2 bridges and 1 boost. First there was this alarm issue and the solution was to wait until the new year and that would fix it. Proactive for sure. Ever since the alarm meltdown my sonosnet has been spotty to say the least. Yesterday with most of my system being unreachable or unplayable or not being able to group units I decided to move from Sonosnet to my wireless as the backbone. I'd always used and been happy with sonosnet but I believe all things change and perhaps it was time. Boy was that a mistake. Once all units showed up as ready I hit party mode and guess what, half of the units weren't added. A few tries later and every unit but one would come on
I bought a faulty Sonos ZP100 which had previously been opened. I therefore had no option of a Sonos repair or out of warranty exchange. I couldn’t find a guide to strip the unit down so worked it out myself. I have since written a guide which will hopefully help someone in the future but I accept no responsibility for any damage caused by following it. At the end of the guide I have written a small explanation of the repair needed for my unit which appeared to have suffered a power surge and no longer powered up. Please feel free to improve or alter the guide. Thanks. [url]http://www.mediafire.com/download/0duavcuf1zyuc8u/sonos_dismantle.pdf[/url]
Hi,I have a BT Smart Hub 2 and I’m in the UK. I downloaded the Wi-Fi analyzer Android app to check for the best 2.4ghz channel to set my router to. I have noticed on it though, that under the 5ghz tab, myself and pretty much everyone around me is set to channel 36 (my Router has this one set under it’s auto smart setting unlike the 2.4 where it had a manual channel selected).When I then do diagnostic on the app it tells me everything is fine apart from the 5ghz channel where it is reporting interference : 90% and recommends another channel - 38 through to 44. I know I would have to turn off the smart function to set this in my router otherwise it will just revert back to channel 36.Is there a reason BT would have set the Hub in that way for the 5ghz channel and should I leave it alone? Or would picking a fixed one that isn’t used nearby be a good thing to do?
I have a playbar on one tv and a playbase on another tv, also several other play:1 play:3 and connect:Amp. When I use my phone or laptop as a source and switch to 'party mode', everything is perfect - always. When I watch either TV with only it's playbase or playbar - it works flawlessly. If, however, I attempt to group any other speakers to either the playbase or playbar sourced by TV sound - the audio cuts out every few seconds. This just started fairly recently - I recall watching some football this way (party mode) with no issues the entire evening - but by the time playoffs rolled around - it's not usable in that way. I'm unable to think of any significant changes that have been made since I recall this working - maybe the playbase is that new - it arrived on christmas day. :) Another interesting thing to note is that the source playbase or playbar (depending on which tv I want to broadcast) never cuts out - only the satellite grouped speakers cut out - and they all cut ou
I have upgraded from original Sonos to new generation Sonos 2. My old system connected to a wi-fi connected hard drive (Western Digital MyBookLive). I am trying to add it to the new system, but am having trouble. I have the IP address for the hard drive, but the app requires me to enter a file path. But I cannot figure out what the file path is. When I enter the description of it as it appears in the settings for the Sonos 1 (which still plays from the hard drive), it says that file doesn’t exist. Spoke for hours to Sonos tech support, but couldn’t figure it out. Tried file explorer in Windows, but can’t see it. At a loss.
I have been a Sonos user for years, happily running exclusively on SonosNet. I had always liked the idea of a Sonos player that could be used outside and so when the Move became available, I bought one about a year ago. Unfortunately, I did not realise that the Move is a wifi-only device. Given the challenging nature of getting a good wifi signal throughout our house, (due to the structure of the building), I would certainly have thought twice about the Move, had I known this at the time.Anyway, from reading numerous other posts relating to this topic, I realise that I am not alone in now suffering numerous wifi problems, but the main issue is that my portable controllers (i.e. iPhone/iPad etc) cannot access the Move, even when it is sitting next to my router, unless that controller is also connected to the same router wifi signal, and not that from a wifi powerline extender (PLE) elsewhere in the house. I have now spent hours on the phone getting nowhere with Sonos support and thei
Hello everyone. I wonder if Sonos Connect does the DAC conversion of analog signal, that comes in to the device, and then do the conversion again while sending it to 'analog out'? I think it does and I look for a possibility to use Connect as a preaplifier but without double conversion? I need to plug in hi-end CD (with better DAC then Sonos) to power aplifier and would like to use Sonos as a preaplifier but without loosing quality. It is possible? Pawel
Luma wifi is about to be released and looks like a great product. Can Sonos and Luma both create mesh networks that work together or will there be interference? I assume they will work, right?! A wifi mesh will be on a different frequency than the Sonos mesh, right? Luma looks like the solution many of us could use if it works as effectively as Sonos does with its own mesh. Opinions? Mesh.
I am trying to set my SONOS specific to specific IP addresses. The current SONOS IP addresses are 192.168.xx.100 to 192.168.xx.106 as assigned via the DHCP server.The revised SONOS IP addresses are to be 192.168.xx.200 to 192.168.xx.206. While I am well aware as to how to assign / move a DHCP [i]ASSIGNED[/i] IP address to a DHCP [i]RESERVED[/i] IP address (as I have successfully done for other devices) it is not working for any of my SONOS devices. While I was looking for solutions to this through the internet I noticed that the problem MAY BE that I have a SONOS Boost connected to 192.168.xx.100 with all other devices connected to the SONOS Boost per this article (see https://sonos.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3453/~/how-to-check-if-sonos-is-in-a-standard-or-boost-setup ). That is I noticed saw "WM: 0" for all devices. As I understand things this is likely the problem as the SONOS devices are getting there IP Addresses from the BOOST because they are connected to
Hi all. I’ve been reading these threads forever, thought I’d finally post my own questions :) I’ve gained a lot of insight from all of you contributing to the forums and I’d like to thank you. This particular question of mine has to do with static IP addresses.First of, I’m very novice at this and trying to better my system as I gain some knowledge from my readings. I’ve read several times that, if you create static IPs for your Sonos devices, it’s important to configure them outside of the DHCP range. Can someone please elaborate a bit on this? I’ve posted some screenshots below of what I’ve done. I was able to select all of my Sonos products from the client list and give them static IP assignments, but I don’t think they’re outside of my DHCP? One screenshot is of my assignment list, and the other is what I think my DHCP range is - is it 100-200? So would I want to assign the suffixes, or last three digits, at something under 100 or over 200? If so, why have an assignment list in the
At my wit's end here. Currently owns dozen PLAY1 speakers, a PLAY5 and a subwoofer—the latter two both second gen. (Also recently purchased a SONOS Boost to help problem-solve.) Issues with these products used to be beyond minimal—but seems every SONOS-related app updates over the past year has worsened the overall experience, rendering the products absolutely useless. Issues I'm dealing with are comparable to many others on here who have invested thousands of dollars into this system, but still don't have viable answers. Breaking point was reached last week after spending hours going down the message board rabbit hole and dedicating IP addresses on my router to each piece of SONOS hardware in my home—going into my Arris router's LAN Settings, inputting the 12-digit MAC address as well as the dedicated IP. Went through all steps of resetting my router, plugging in all devices one-by-one, et al— still in a nightmare situation. (Have also played the change-the-router chann
Looking for some guidance on a non Sonos issue from gurus here: In a TP link access point that is ethernet wired back to a Apple Time Capsule base station, DHCP is disabled, and everything in the served space works fine, including Sonos/Firestick/Phones/Computer, with Sonos in WiFi mode. TP link model WA 850 RE. Now for another device being added in the space, a HomePod mini, I see some recommendations of giving it a static IP address for stability. Question therefore is how/where is this done? By making changes in the app that is used to set up the access point? Or, back in the apple base station?Appreciate any guidance. I now recall an earlier discussion here, but that was in the context of Sonos compatibilty which also brings me to a follow up question: My Sonos set up is all wired back to the same base station and is rock solid. What do I need to do to ensure that if any new access point device is added as a wired access point to the same base station to serve non Sonos devices in
I'm new to Sonos, but would like to setup some Tasker tasks in Android to automate playing my favourite radio station, launching playlists, etc. Is there a reference for http POST commands that I could work from? Could someone point me in the right direction? My aim is to use Tasker with NFC tags to activate theses common tasks without the need to go into the app.
I have a pair of PLAY:1s in a stereo pair. Both connect to SonosNet via a BOOST. What happens if I directly connect the two speakers with an Ethernet cable? Will one of the speakers receive its communication over the wire, while the other talks to the BOOST wirelessly? Just curious, not trying to solve any problem I'm experiencing.
I have a 6 zone system; 5 are in an open plan large space with an attached patio, in line of sight of the router and the boost that is wired to it. Of these, 3 are wired to the core network and therefore the boost, with Wifi disabled. The 6th zone is in the bedroom, a play 1 stereo pair. It is separated from the open space by a brick wall, and is usually yellow and sometimes orange box in the Matrix. In this room, I have a Airport express unit that is ethernet wired back to the router, and it therefore provides a very strong WiFi signal in the bedroom. However, it is not convenient to run more wire to get the play 1 pair wire connected to the core network. I do not want to disturb the set up in the open plan space for 5 zones; that is working flawlessly. The question is, can I make use of the strong WiFi signal in the bedroom for the 1 pair located there? Note that any additional bridge to give the 1 pair a better signal does not work; the bridge is ignored because the cost of the resu
Hi, I have been working on a simplified UPnP library which is aimed at Sonos that I want to make available to others. You can find the source-code here: [url]https://github.com/jishi/Jishi.Intel.SonosUPnP[/url] This is based upon Intels UPnP framework, which is opposed to the COM object that other attempts that I have found, based completely on managed code (no unmanaged code). This makes a huge difference if you are building anything multithreaded (WinForms, WPF etc). I will try to put up some example code for people to look at. Right now some of the features are pretty hacky since I'm still learning best practices, but hopefully it simplifies it a bit for someone. This is built for .NET 4 Client Profile. The requirements is only .NET 4, previous versions doesn't need to exist. Basic usage is this: [CODE] // Create the main object var discovery = new SonosDiscovery(); // Attach an event handler for topologychanged, this will be triggered as soon as it has
Hi all - we’re doing a renovation and have an open combined kitchen/living room (roughly 600 square feet). We’re planning on putting in ceiling speakers but are unsure about the configuration (4 in living room, 2 in kitchen?) and how they would be wired to a Sonos receiver in a closet. Would all 6 go the same receiver? Are there options to only have 4 living room on at once? And if we add a TV to the set up is there a way to connect the TV to the ceiling speakers wirelessly through the Sonos receiver? Other options if the TV and receiver are in different parts of the room? Thanks!
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