Do this at your own risk. You will no doubt void your warranty if you break something.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/113/293505012_1b3a9ffc8a_d.jpg
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Userlevel 1
Just curious, if my CR100 is way outside of warranty, what risk do I have purchasing a replacement battery and doing it myself. I have several controllers and now the 2nd controller stopped charging on the cradle and only charges when plugged into the jack on the top of the controller. The last time this happened Sonos had me send for a replacement which cost about $100.00. Cleaning the contacts on the bottom and making sure the pins are protruding sufficiently does not seem to help in any way. I have been led to believe that this not charging on the cradle issue is really a battery issue. I have never replaced any batteries on any controllers and some of them are probably several years old -- probably more than 5 years. In any case, the cautions about voiding warranty do not seem to matter much in my case unless if my battery replacement doesn't work you are saying that Sonos would not then replace the unit under the $100 replacement program.
Thanks for your reply.
Thanks for your reply.
Userlevel 1
pwilli, thank you! PM sent!
Userlevel 2
Incidentally.....I have never had to use Glue of any sort...double sided tape is perfect...and even then it only seems to be on rare occasions that the original won't just go back.
Userlevel 2
Justintime,
PM me your address and i'll send you one...i have a couple of dud controllers that i'm not using..you can have one of them.
PM me your address and i'll send you one...i have a couple of dud controllers that i'm not using..you can have one of them.
justintime,
GOO GONE seems to be the darling of the green set because of the heavy citrus smell. The major point for me is "Contains petroleum distillates. ... Do not use near heat, sparks or flame." To me, this means "nameless stew of industrial solvents". It does not fit my idea of "green". My experience is that GOO GONE is generally not safe for use with polymers -- unless the polymer is the item you want to remove from a glass or metal surface. I always test carefully.
Some of the GOO GONE fractions have a fairly low evaporation rate. Also, GOO GONE tends to leave a difficult to remove film, that will interfere with adhesives. The SONOS gasket may be better in a few days.
GOO GONE is my common (one can purchase it without some sort of special connection) solvent of last resort. I'll usually follow the GOO GONE with a milder solvent that will remove the GOO GONE film.
GOO GONE seems to be the darling of the green set because of the heavy citrus smell. The major point for me is "Contains petroleum distillates. ... Do not use near heat, sparks or flame." To me, this means "nameless stew of industrial solvents". It does not fit my idea of "green". My experience is that GOO GONE is generally not safe for use with polymers -- unless the polymer is the item you want to remove from a glass or metal surface. I always test carefully.
Some of the GOO GONE fractions have a fairly low evaporation rate. Also, GOO GONE tends to leave a difficult to remove film, that will interfere with adhesives. The SONOS gasket may be better in a few days.
GOO GONE is my common (one can purchase it without some sort of special connection) solvent of last resort. I'll usually follow the GOO GONE with a milder solvent that will remove the GOO GONE film.
Userlevel 1
It sat overnight, no recovery. It is stretched... I think the GooGone (which I used to clean it) reacted with the rubber. I am contacting Sonos to see if they can sell me a replacement.
justintime,
Let the membrane sit for a while. It is possible that all of the solvents from the failed attempts have caused the membrane to distend. With luck, the solvents will work their way out and the membrane will recover at least some of its former shape.
Out of curiosity, which side seemed to reject the bonding attempts? The gasket material or the plastic case?
Let the membrane sit for a while. It is possible that all of the solvents from the failed attempts have caused the membrane to distend. With luck, the solvents will work their way out and the membrane will recover at least some of its former shape.
Out of curiosity, which side seemed to reject the bonding attempts? The gasket material or the plastic case?
justintime,
Let the membrane sit for a while. It is possible that all of the solvents from the failed attempts have caused the membrane to distend. With luck, the solvents will work their way out and the membrane will recover at least some of its former shape.
Out of curiosity, which side seemed to reject the bonding attempts? The gasket material or the plastic case?
Let the membrane sit for a while. It is possible that all of the solvents from the failed attempts have caused the membrane to distend. With luck, the solvents will work their way out and the membrane will recover at least some of its former shape.
Out of curiosity, which side seemed to reject the bonding attempts? The gasket material or the plastic case?
Userlevel 1
I tried rubber cement, it did not work either. As a matter of fact, at this point the blue rubber insert must be 'stretched', because I cannot even form fit it tight in place... it just sags. This just stinks!!! I lost all faith in this. I am NEVER going to be able to put the darn insert back in... no way to glue it in place, and even then , it is now not conforming..
I have no idea what happened, it must be all the 'fitting' into place and then cleaning off all the cement from repeated failures that stretched the rubber.
Fat chance Sonos would sell me a new rubber insert, huh? *&^%%$$!!!
I have no idea what happened, it must be all the 'fitting' into place and then cleaning off all the cement from repeated failures that stretched the rubber.
Fat chance Sonos would sell me a new rubber insert, huh? *&^%%$$!!!
justintime,
I would think that a rubber cement would be effective. Sometimes it is sold as "contact cement." Make sure that it is fresh.
In automotive stores there are some rubber based gasket cements that could be effective. There are actually different types. Some are rubber based and some are not. If you need to try different adhesives, don't pick from the same chemistry.
This class of adhesive is a "coat both surfaces and wait" affair. Be sure to wait long enough. If you press the surfaces together too soon the adhesive will not be completely degassed. The trapped gasses will expand and literally blow the joint apart.
In any case, a hard setting cement is a bad choice.
I would think that a rubber cement would be effective. Sometimes it is sold as "contact cement." Make sure that it is fresh.
In automotive stores there are some rubber based gasket cements that could be effective. There are actually different types. Some are rubber based and some are not. If you need to try different adhesives, don't pick from the same chemistry.
This class of adhesive is a "coat both surfaces and wait" affair. Be sure to wait long enough. If you press the surfaces together too soon the adhesive will not be completely degassed. The trapped gasses will expand and literally blow the joint apart.
In any case, a hard setting cement is a bad choice.
Userlevel 1
Hrmmm tried 2 different types of glue, bad results. Any reco for proper glue to stick the blue rubber backing in place again?
Userlevel 1
What kind of glue are you guys using to properly glue the blue rubber piece back in place?
Userlevel 2
My CR100 would not charge on the cradle, only through the charge socket.
I tested the idea of the metal contacts not contacting correctly by squeezing the front and back of the controller whilst in the cradle and it started charging.
I followed the instructions of this topic to take my contoller apart, cleaned the contacts, bent them up slightly and now my controller is charging in the dock.
Thank you for saving my controller 🙂
I tested the idea of the metal contacts not contacting correctly by squeezing the front and back of the controller whilst in the cradle and it started charging.
I followed the instructions of this topic to take my contoller apart, cleaned the contacts, bent them up slightly and now my controller is charging in the dock.
Thank you for saving my controller 🙂
Userlevel 2
Thanks cnewlander and Avee for keeping the pics going.
I can go ahead changing the battery with some confidence tonight.
Btw my original battery lasted 4 years so cant complain.
I can go ahead changing the battery with some confidence tonight.
Btw my original battery lasted 4 years so cant complain.
When I look at the CRADDLE, I see 2 metal prongs that stick out a whole lot. I can't imagine the contreoller metals not making contact with the prongs on the craddle, no matter what the circumstances.
So, are you talking about the 2 metal contacts on the controller that can be seen from outside (underside) of the CR100? Or are you referring to some prongs that are INSIDE the cr100, that make cotact with the metals? I imagine the later, because otherwise this makes no sense to me.
Thanks!
INSIDE.
the metal tabs being discussed are the ones at the bottom of this photo.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/118/293504577_7180a6e169.jpg
When assembled they make contact with the two 'gold squares' near the bottom center in this photo...
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/121/293503563_ca72152f13.jpg
To all:
Don't blame me or Sonos if you void your warranty or cause pesonal injury/property damage. Do this at your own risk.
With the direction this thread is taking it may be a good idea to move it to the unsupported section of the forum.
The battery appears to be a Lionik Li-Polymer DVD/Laptop Series Cell 3.7v 3600mAh, Model PL-0548135 http://www.lionikbattery.com/liju/dvde.htm
Userlevel 1
Thanks cnewlander for the detailed writeup and pics!
For completeness, I would have liked a closeup of the text on the battery - purely out of curiosity.
I think I read:
-------------
E5045135
E1I17-J50
3600mAh 3.70
-------------
For completeness, I would have liked a closeup of the text on the battery - purely out of curiosity.
I think I read:
-------------
E5045135
E1I17-J50
3600mAh 3.70
-------------
Userlevel 4
+2
Split from this thread
The same precoutions apply to the new battery as the one that is being replaced.
(good pics btw)
Carefully lift the battery from the side shown. It is aslo held in with adhesive towards the left. Do no yank or pull the battery quickly. Lift slowly to weaken the adhesive which can be better viewed in the next photo.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/121/293503563_ca72152f13.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/121/293503563_ca72152f13.jpg
There is tape holding the battery wires. Carefully lift the tape. The tape appears to be part of the battery.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/116/293503566_408b63916f.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/116/293503566_408b63916f.jpg
Trying to show the connector on the board.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/99/293503567_8154d13b1a.jpg
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/99/293503567_8154d13b1a.jpg
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