Dead Play:5, need schematics or tips



Show first post

39 replies

It was a qualified guess that the chip was defect

i found a video online of repair of a Sonos zp100 

here he changed the usual suspects. One of was the small chip So I just did the same.  
 

kind regards Anders

 

Thx Anders, I have a Sonos 5 (rev 1), with working rectifier (diodebro), fuse not blown, but not working. All caps seems to be fine on HV side so I guess that 2QS02G could be the problem child. Any proposals on where to get this chip easiest?

 

Mvh / Br

Jesper

I’m trying to repair my Sonos play-5 gen-1. It has a problem that others have discussed but I’ve found no posts describing a repair. I have spoken with Sonos support and they confirmed the problem and offered a discounted replacement. I’d like to repair it. I have had good luck fixing Sonos power supply problems in the past. This play-5 seems to work. I can connect and stream music to it. The problem is that the volume is barely audible, even when set to max. There are no volume limits. There’s no distortion and both channels are working. Do any of you have suggestions on how I can further pursue this? The large caps and the rectifier measure correctly. Might this still be a power supply problem or is it more likely an amplifier issue? Any help would be appreciated.

 

Thanks

Lendy

Userlevel 2

Im going to piggyback onto this discussion to see if someone can help me out.

I have a Power supply issue with an issue on the switching side.

The unit has no power. 

Replaced most of the power side caps, rectifier, fuse, FET IC Driver, FET, (Also smt 120K resistor near the rectifier was blown.)

I feel like im close, but I have this problem where the voltage starts at 5v ramps up to 15v and then bumps back down to 5v to repeat the process.  Thought maybe a diode, but I cant find it.

When i remove the little 25v 100uf Cap between the two big filtering caps, the fluctuation goes away.  Still get no power though.

 

Any Thoughts?

 

Hi there,

I have the same problems (sorry for my bad english). One of the 120K smd resistors was defect, i place a new one but nothing happens.

On the 2 big elcos i measure 319 vdc but the little one of100uF is charging up to 19v en then back to 5v and thats repeating. When i measure with my scope i see the elco is charge and then recharge. I also replaced the 8p ic on the prim side. I checked al the components on the primair side but nothings wrong??

Hi jpotts

It sounds as though the SMPS is trying to start-up, and then it shuts down again, and runds in this cycle. Maybe the control loop is broken

Have you tried to measure if there is any reponse at the optocoupler ? It’s located in the bottom right. Just to the right of the transformer. It’s a SHARP PC817..

Hi all

 

I have been making some fault analysis at my own Play:5. Unfortunately the rectifier bridge and fuse is ok. The MOSFET driver at primary side is at least not shorted.

However the driver (FET, or BJT) at the secondary side is shorted between pin1 and pin3.

However I cannot figure out the tyoe, so it’s a little difficult. However a short circuit between legs is normally not something good ;-)

Or could I be tricked by the fact that the transformer might be connect to pin1 and pin3, so there is a DC short between pin1 and pin3 ?

For what it’s worth, my pin1/3 on secondary side are also shorted. So either we both have the same problem or it’s supposed to be that way!

Hello,

 

Maybe someone here can help me With my problem With my Play 5.

I have Some exploded smd capacitors/resistors/transistors on my board.

Might someone know the values of the following components: 

C27852/C27855/D27714.

I found a helpful picture on this forum to know what the resistor values are.

 

 

Hoping someone can help me.

Thanks in advance.

 

CNS

Hello please can someone tell me what components are in yelow fields? i can see G64 AN and 34AN A8 i cannot find anything. help me, i can donate you via paypal :)

 

Hello, 

 

nice Tread. Thanks for the details. I have a quite similar problem and Resistor 21817 burnt away. Can anyone please provide the value for this resistor?

 

@Anders J: Is your unit working again? Mine also had the shunt resistor and the MOSFET burned out. You might want to have a look there. 

 

BR

BATTA

Hi all

 

I have been making some fault analysis at my own Play:5. Unfortunately the rectifier bridge and fuse is ok. The MOSFET driver at primary side is at least not shorted.

However the driver (FET, or BJT) at the secondary side is shorted between pin1 and pin3.

However I cannot figure out the type, so it’s a little difficult. However a short circuit between legs is normally not something good ;-)

Or could I be tricked by the fact that the transformer might be connect to pin1 and pin3, so there is a DC short between pin1 and pin3 ?

I have the same issue as you: measured short on the diode on the secondary side of the transformer.  Yes, I checked for the more common AC-side failure: Input fuse is short, primary rectifier diodes measure good, but DC outputs pulse.  Across the secondary-side toroid output filter inductor: L27721, I see pulsing DC levels measuring from GND (pins 2/5) to the two outputs (pins 1+6 and pins 3+4).  I have desoldered (and partly muscled off) D27718, which is the DC rectifying diode in one of the two DC output circuits: ST STPS20150C. Pins 1 and 3 are shorted in the PCB by design.  So basically the two diodes are in parallel.  That matches what I see in the reference design of the ICE2QS02, which is the AC/DC Flyback switching controller.  Hidden in the glue I also found D27705, which is the rectifying diode for the other output (pins 1 and 6 of L27721).  It is fine also, too much glue to see any markings, but it has ~0.48Vfwd.   

Though the behavior of the circuit looks like the controller is detecting a short on the secondary,tThe resistance to GND of the two outputs is good, my DMM measures constantly increasings resistance (i.e. a mostly capacitive load, with high resistance).  

The transformer connection is hard to figure out.  Pin 12 of the secondary is wired directly to the bulk caps, no diode in series, which isn’t the usual way.  I think the diode (D27718) is in series with the GND connection on the other end of the same winding (pin 9).  C27863 and R27057 (? I scratched the silk, but it is the big resistor embedded in glue) appear to just be a snubber circuit.  But the other secondary winding (pins 7 and 11) I can’t figure out what they’re doing.   The only place I find a connection is to R27808 in the feedback circuit.

Based on all of that, and not finding unexpected shorts in the DC/DC section, I think the problem is still in AC/DC.  The Opto measured okay, at least as 2 diodes, but I don’t know that it is transmitting.  If I bother working on this again, I guess I’d use the datasheet for ICE2QS02 to see if I was getting the expected feedback signal, and look at all 7 inputs to that part.  

BTW, if anyone has one of these boards working and can share what the voltages on the two outputs should be, that would help. That could be measured on C2781 and C2760 (the shorter two electrolytic caps on the AD/DC output, right next to the 2x25 header that goes up to the audio board).

 

Badge

Following for any more information on a Sonos 5 that’s having power amp issues. I’m about to get mine apart and have determined only that it must be the power amp ( headphones out ok, aux in no output, speaker out very faint audio) 

All guidance greatly appreciated! 😊

Userlevel 3
Badge +2

Here is the best I’ve found on debugging Sonos Play:5 hardware issues:

https://sites.google.com/site/sonosdebug/power-topology

The author includes reverse-engineered information about jtag, serial port, connector, and the power supply (including a very helpful partial circuit diagram)!

There is nothing about the actual power amp.  I have seen a few of these go bad and had only marginal success fixing them.  One finding I did have was that a unit with missing bass had some of the driver ICs not having power.  It turned out that some of the internal traces had burned out between the driver chips.  I jumpered all of the power pins of the 6 ICs together (and all of the grounds too, for good measure), and it solved the problem.

If you have NO sound from the amplifier, then check the biases identified on the schematic and make sure that all of them (12v, 3.3V, 11.1V, 5V) are working.

Reply